Which Type Of Gusset Should I Use?

[brianevans]

Thanks for the help on my other thread. I have another question. Which type of gusset should I use on my messenger bag? I'm leaning towards the left one, as it would mean a whole heck of a lot less sewing for my first bag. I am concerned though that it would make the bag fall over all the time if not leaned against something. What do you all think?

[billybopp]

Either type of gusset will work, however you may find that the "U" gusset shown in the left diagram presents a few problems if you're new to sewing. Because of the different radius between the inside of the gusset and outside, there will be either a shorter stitch length on the inside curve versus the outside. If you don't care about that, no biggie. If you do, its a bit tricky to deal with. The leather will also bunch up on the inside of the curves, which can be tricky to deal with.

All in all, despite a little more stitching, the "square" gusset in the right diagram is probably easier overall. No problems with stitch length in this style. Getting the leather around the corner is also likely to be a little tricky, but not so much as the "U" gusset.

I've made both types, and prefer the square gusset, but that's just my preference.

Hope that helps

Bill

[brianevans]

Thanks Bill. Also thanks for the compliment on my knife in the other thread. I can't seem to make them fast enough. I keep getting orders and making knives is cutting into my learning leather! No pun intended. Haha.

[billybopp]

You're most welcome. I can see why the knives are selling well!

There are a number of videos about making messenger bags on youtube if you want to check them out. Nigel Armitage has a particularly nice one at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEwbvfsZfBw

Bill

[DavidL]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57985

first one is harder to make - skiving, stitching inside out, keeping the right shape is also challenging. Much harder to do than a square gusset. But if your able to do a U gusset there are options like piping and stitching on either end of the seam that aren't available with a square gusset.