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How To Cut A Hide For Straps And Dog Collars ...

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:helpsmilie:

Good day all, thank you in advance to anyone reading this and willing to offer advice! :)

I just joined the forum recently and have only been doing leatherwork for about 6 months.

My specialty is dog collars, and I wanted to know

Is there a specific way I should be cutting these straps from the hide?

For example, should I be cutting the straps lengthwise, or widthwise? When I first began others around me said it didn't matter, but last nite I was reading Al Stohlmans' Encycolpedia of Saddle Making, and they specifically state do not cut straps widthwise.

Any assistance is much appreciated. Thank you! :cowboy:

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On a side cut length wise and don't use the belly for anything where strength is required it will stretch out of shape .

Edited by dirtclod

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Thank you *SO* much!!! I had been doing it the opposite way and experiencing leather issues. Now I know why. :)

Thanks again! :)

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Lengthwise.....We use double backs and have straps pre cut.

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always lengthwise. This will give you the option of being able to fill an order for a matching leash also.

When I get the sides in, I cut them in 3" straps. Then, when I go to fill orders for collars, belts or leashes, it's much easier and faster to just grab a 3" strap and get two 1.5" collars or three 1" leashes, etc. A 3" strap works for me and all I ever have left over may be 1/4" straps which I use for saddle strings.

The belly is useful (to me) for cutting in strips to fill a dog tug or if there's enough of it, I use it, flesh side out, for the cover of the tug.

G'luck

Spence

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Thank you Dawg Club. :) Thank you Spence! This is very insightful. I'm sure over time I will develop what will work for me as well. I was using the pre-cut latigo strips, then I moved onto the latigo 1/2 hide, but was cutting widthwise! Now when I cut this new hide I will be cutting it right. Thank you so very much.

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always lengthwise. This will give you the option of being able to fill an order for a matching leash also.

When I get the sides in, I cut them in 3" straps. Then, when I go to fill orders for collars, belts or leashes, it's much easier and faster to just grab a 3" strap and get two 1.5" collars or three 1" leashes, etc. A 3" strap works for me and all I ever have left over may be 1/4" straps which I use for saddle strings

Brilliant! I've been struggling to figure out how to store my hides. This is a wonderful solution!

What exactly is a dog tug? Like a tug-of-war toy?

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Yes, a dog tug is sometimes referred to as a tug toy. I use them to develop a dog's bite strength (for protection). If used as a toy, they have to be monitored because they will eat it in no time flat.

Tug = leather = hide = prey = food for dog

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Hi all, this has been an interesting topic, but one question when you say "always lengthwise" I'm not sure which way you mean.

I bought just a shoulder the other day, so would that be from the left to the right - the widest part?

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I guess you'd call it the widest part. Lay it out on the bench or floor. You'll be able to see a rough outline of the cow. At the widest part, is the top or back of the cow. This is the longest useable part (I use this are for leashes.

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good info for newbies.............and welcome back home Spence!!

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Hi all, this has been an interesting topic, but one question when you say "always lengthwise" I'm not sure which way you mean.

I bought just a shoulder the other day, so would that be from the left to the right - the widest part?

Another way to clarify that is to look at how it came off the cow. "Lengthwise" means from head to tail. So, that's the direction you'll want to cut in order to keep the grain moving in the right direction. Depending on how your shoulder was cut, you might be able to see the head/neck portion there to orient it. Now, a lot of people do the opposite when using double-shoulders in order to get the most length out of their cuts, but the grain will stop it from bending and folding the way it really should when utilizing it for straps. That's why I pretty much just buy sides so I have all the length with the grain flowing in the right direction. Since you're just working with a single shoulder, you don't have a whole lot of length to worry about anyway, so I would try to get it oriented head to tail and cut it in that direction regardless of the physical length of the piece.

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Just wanted to say "thank you" to all who answered my thread here. Soon after posting this I lost my Internet at home and and work (switching to different carriers), it took forever to work again, and then I was so stressed over it, I got sick in bed with fever and upper respiratory infection. So I apologize for posting and not being around. I'm better now and will be back on here.

Thank you all again! Much appreciated! :taptap:

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