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Subelec

Newbie Introduction And Questions

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My name Chris and I am a compulsive hobbyist.

I play guitar, mandolin, ukulele, harmonica, and bang a banjo when feeling brave.

I also make beer and other alcoholic beverages on a regular basis.

I shave with an old fashioned safety razor (double edge) and a straight razor and lather with a badger hair brush.

To add my list of manly hobbies, I decided to start leather working to appeal to my need to create.

The itch happens when I look at something and say "I can do that!"

I have bought a few tools to get started and have run into many learning curve problems that I can't seem to find the answers to after trolling the forums and YouTube videos.

I have noticed after dyeing my cheap little thin pieces of vegtan from the local big hobby store that the material is now stiff as a board and curling on the edges...that doesn't help make a nice wallet. What are the proper steps to dyeing a piece of leather that doesn't make it feel like a piece of jerky when it is all said and done? I have been rubbing olive oil on these pieces like crazy to no effect.....but I have soft hands now.

Also, I am not sure but it seems to me that I have been losing some size after dyeing (I read about the removal of moisture after dyeing) and can understand that. Should I be accounting for a certain amount of shrinkage? Like a 1/4 of an inch or something? I would like to make some patterns to repeat my work and I am not sure if this something that people take into account for dyeing (and stitching).

Having fun but getting frustrated with what I don't know....if there is something that I should be reading to answer these questions, please let me know. I have been digging but not finding the right information.

Thanks for any help!

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I usually dye, buff lightly with a damp sponge, buff with a white cloth (until nothing or almost nothing comes off), and then apply neatsfoot oil and let it sit for 24 hours before putting resolene (a sealer you cut 50% with water) on it. If it's still very stiff, you might need to source some leather from somewhere else. Springfield Leather (online) has good leather, not so good leather, and great leather (Hermann Oak, though it's more pricey), and they'll tell you which is which and what a reasonable weight would be for the project you want.

+ 1 for mandolin - my husband and I both play, though he plays a lot better than me.

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What type of dye are you using? I know that my local hobby store sells a few different kinds. If you are using the EcoFlo all-in-one, which is what I see the most of at Hobby Lobby, then you won't get much (or any) penetration from the oil because the all-in-one has a sealer as well as the dye in it.

If you are using Fiebings spirit dyes, you should be able to get oil into the leather after dying.

I usually dye and oil before I cut out my patterns, so I don't have to worry about any size changes. The exception is when I'm doing tooling & need to dye after cutting & tooling.

Some people moisten leather before dying. It helps to even out the dye application and maintain the moisture level in the leather. I've even heard of oiling the leather prior to dying, but have not tried that one personally.

I also agree with Monica about the leather you use. In my experience, better leather stays more supple. Some leather also has a "pasted" flesh side. The paste can resist water (more difficult for wet forming) and oil penetration on the back side.

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1) If you can invest in a slightly higher grade leather it will benefit you in learning. Doesnt have to be top end, but something like Hermann Oak B grade pieces from Springfield will help. Hobby shop leather is bottom of the barrel and wont help you learn.

2) Dye your leather prior to cutting out the pattern shapes. The shrinkage is unpredictable from piece to piece and this way everything you do will be more uniform.

3) Prior to dyeing dampen the leather slightly with a clean cloth. Damp leather takes dye more evenly. After dyeing apply a light coat of oil. Dyeing really zaps the moisture content of leather and you need to replenish it.

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Thank you all for the replies.

I have also come to the conclusion that one of the biggest problems is the cheap leather that I am using.

I did manage to get the piece I was working on to soften up but it took a lot more olive oil than I expected.

I have ordered better leather to work with, neatsfoot oil, and the professional oil dye (which should help on several levels).

In the end (after several hours of difficult sewing), the piece was unusable due to improper measuring and cutting. :bawling:

The lesson I have taken from all of this is that the hobby store leather is teaching me where I am going wrong early on without breaking the bank on the good stuff!

When that comes in, I am going to use all of the advice given because I have not been doing any of the things suggested up to this point.

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Hi My name is Jim, I started working with leather this year. I got into metal detecting a few years ago. I was in need of leather holsters, belts and small cases, so I decided to give it a try. I always admired the art of leather working. I love the smell and feel and everything about it. This is an excellent site and wanted to thank you all for the help you give me.

Jim

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G'day Subelec, l too have all sorts of arcane hobbies, and have found that many things I get interested in have an initial steep learning curve. All part of the fun.....

Yes, I too noticed that after applying the dye (Feibings spirit dye) the leather tends to go stiff as a board (although when making holsters this isn't a bad thing, as it helps keep the shape). I now apply a couple of coats of hot neatsfooot oil (make sure it's pure, and not "compounded" stuff), leave it for a day or so and then apply the wax finish.

Lots of good info on this site - it's just a matter of finding it!

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