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jbird22cal

Gerber Case Project?

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Hello all,

I'm moving on up, I've completed my leather bow sling straps and played around with tooling. I practiced my sewing/stitching on a botched tooling attempt and decided it's time to start making cases. I'm excited!

My father and I both carry gerber multi-tools. The nylon cases take a heavy beating so I've decided to make them out of leather.

I am modeling the case out after a smaller case made for a folding utility knife jobber. The design is out of a thinner leather, two piece, riveted at the mouth on both sides and stiched all the way around (saddle stitch I think) and then closed off with a snap.

I have, an awl, needles, thread, wax, an over stitch wheel, the edge wheel thing, and tooling stuff short of a non-rusted up swivel knife. (inherited) also I have exacto knives, utility knives, a head knife, punches, rivets, etc etc.

I also have Fiebings and super sheen. I need to make an order for leather and other odds and ends (leather is expensive) and I was looking to see if you folks had any ideas about anything else I might need before I order:

I'll be ordering today (12/29/10) when I wake up

My order from tandy is:

61941-01 - The Art Of Making Leather Cases, Vol. 1

3204-00 - Craftool Border Tool

8002-00 - Craftool Swivel Knife Deluxe Adjustable

8116-00 - Craftool Plastic Bone Folder

99606-02 - Single Shoulders 6 to 7 oz.

9080-99 - Veg Bellies-Special Purchase

61941-01 - The Art Of Making Leather Cases, Vol. 1

3204-00 - Craftool Border Tool

8002-00 - Craftool Swivel Knife Deluxe Adjustable

8116-00 - Craftool Plastic Bone Folder

99606-02 - Single Shoulders 6 to 7 oz. (2 of them)

9080-99 - Veg Bellies-Special Purchase

I thought 6-7 oz leather would work out unless you folks recomend otherwise, Ive been reading these forums and I don't see the need for lining the case for this application. Thanks for any advice.

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if it were me I would throw fiebing's edge kote on there, along with "Gum Trangacanth" for the inside of the case if you're not going to line it. and get some leathercraft cement for gluing your case sides together (professional touch). you also mentioned rivets? not sure if you have them already but you'll need the proper length (size) and the specific tools to set the rivets.

I'm personally a fan of lining my cases blush.gif

SAM_0631.jpg

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if it were me I would throw fiebing's edge kote on there, along with "Gum Trangacanth" for the inside of the case if you're not going to line it. and get some leathercraft cement for gluing your case sides together (professional touch). you also mentioned rivets? not sure if you have them already but you'll need the proper length (size) and the specific tools to set the rivets.

I'm personally a fan of lining my cases blush.gif

I've added the edge cote (three coates of the regular seemed to work on the cut up belt blanks) I've added a leather cement, I was just going to use one from the hardware store, but I'm going with your suggestion. It will probably work better. I added the gum stuff, I'm not really sure what it is but it keeps showing up in the tutorials so I'll order that too. I hope my rivets fit I bought a boat load when the local leather store closed up.

That lining is neat, Is that just a regular fabric? I've got some desert camo that I purchased to make a ginseng harvest bag but it was to light for the job. Thanks for the idea I'll look for a tutorial on here. If it's a regular fabric I can probably aquire most of the stuff locally. Thanks much!:specool:

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the gum tragacanth will keep the leather nice and smooth on the inside for your gerber, fibers in the leathers rough side won't fray up as easily and etc.

The liner I used was just regular bandanna. a little thin for the job, the adhesive spray I used on it went through a little more than I would have liked.

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I use the gum tragacanth on the edges and use the slicker to get a nice rounded and burnished edge on my holsters. You might want to add an edge beveler to your list if you don't have one. A sanding block to even edges before burnishing is handy to have.

When I use a cloth liner I apply Tanners Bond, Barge or Masters to the leather and let it set up. While it is slightly tacky put the cloth liner on. I do not put any glue on the cloth liner and the glue does not seep though.

the gum tragacanth will keep the leather nice and smooth on the inside for your gerber, fibers in the leathers rough side won't fray up as easily and etc.

The liner I used was just regular bandanna. a little thin for the job, the adhesive spray I used on it went through a little more than I would have liked.

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I use the gum tragacanth on the edges and use the slicker to get a nice rounded and burnished edge on my holsters. You might want to add an edge beveler to your list if you don't have one. A sanding block to even edges before burnishing is handy to have.

When I use a cloth liner I apply Tanners Bond, Barge or Masters to the leather and let it set up. While it is slightly tacky put the cloth liner on. I do not put any glue on the cloth liner and the glue does not seep though.

Totally awesome, I'm going to have to see if I can pick one of those up! Thank you JJ You_Rock_Emoticon.gif

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:thumbsup: The order was sent, The tandy flyer that i was looking at doesnt start yet so i didnt get my swivel knife, I ordered a new blade and a stiching pony instead. Thanks all! I'll make it a point to post a picture of the result....

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While I was waiting for my leather to case properly I started down this road. Following the instructions for the pocket knife case in Al's book, I made this case for a bic lighter. I managed to rush it a bit and still have it turn out ok. (took about 4 hours w/o final finish)

Things I learned:

1. check to make sure that brand new bottle of eco-flow glue you got is not dried out before you start.

2. the handly little awl that has inter-changeable blades that tandy sells is a bit bothersome, the blade sticks and pulls out.

3. Don't race when your using elmers tacky craft glue (all I had on short notice)

3. Sewing needles break despite everything being coated in beez wax.

4. a dremel tool will be handy in sanding the edges, as far as finishing it I used am artgum eraser with a piece of cut 600 grit sand paper. ( I learned to use a gum eraser for sanding from a machinest friend of mine when he was doing some work on a rifle stock)

5. Gum T accepts die, had no clue what exactly to do with this stuff. All I know now is that I will run out of that stuff first.

6. that new plastic bone tool from tandy needs to be sanded on the edges, also watch the made in china stamp.

7. Gravity applies... when your stitching pony is between your legs stuff always seems to fall out of reach.

8. when double stitching the belt loop as per instructions, leave it on the looser side as to not spread the hole out in the case.

9. If you need to take a break, take it! that way you dont forget to cut a stiching groove.

I'm sure there are a few things im not typing in but thats good enouph.

I'm sorry about the quality of the picture, the lighting wasnt great. I've got lots of compliments on it. My own critiquing is that I could have made it so the lighter rides lower. It bites me in the love handle. The edges were easier than I thought.

post-16024-065794000 1294791244_thumb.jp

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I stopped in to post the above post, ask a few questions and read the sticky on the bag tutorial.

I am working on the two pouches. For the first form I used carpet tacks as I couldnt find any other tack. This left really big holes in the leather. I don't like that. Is there a way to fix that?

For the second form I used braddly nails, I did it last night so I havent pulled it off the board yet. So the jury is still out on the hole size. Do you all think I used to many nails?

I'm worried about being able to get even stitching with all of the holes. Is there any thing I should try?

I chose to make a form fo my leather that is square in nature. I thought since this is my first attempt, I thought it might be easier. Maybe...

I'm cutting out backs and straps tonight, I used that lemon juice 1:1 mix to clean the first pouch form, works great!

here's where I'm at:

post-16024-055279600 1294793178_thumb.jp

How does this global limit work? I may need to start compressing images. I'm almost out of room.

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As far as what you have so far, I can only say that if you intend to use that holster with the pliers pointing down, they will probably wear a hole in the bottom of the holster quite quickly.

I did a holster for my gerber tool about a month ago. It was just a quick & dirty one I threw together because my nylon sheath was in tatters. I wet formed the leather around the pliers, then let it dry, put a snap on the outside of the holster, sewed a loop on the back, laced the back to the back, put a snap on the flap, threw some neatsfoot on it, and wore it. The wet forming was the hardest part because I was in a hurry.

One tip on the belt loop: make it a true loop, not a slit. By that I mean when you sew the loop on, start at the end that will be at the top of the belt, with the loop pointing even further up. Once the top is sewn on, fold the loop down and sew the bottom end. This makes it a little more flexible and forgiving when you snag it on something. I made cellphone holster that had a piece of leather on the back to form a belt slit, and almost gave myself a wedgie when the phone got caught on a grab bar as I was jumping off some machinery. I ended up hanging by the holster at some really crazy angle until I could stop swinging and get ahold of something to right myself. I've snagged my gerber holster several times already, and this loop has enough give to it that I don't get hung up.

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Heheh - I did this once too....

check the date - ooooold post

:cheers:

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