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DR80

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About DR80

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  1. Perfect finish on the edges, and a nice belt. How much time did you spend on painting the edges?.
  2. Thank you for this information. I did this (see the picture from when i made it.) watch strap 3 month ago. The edge paint is Fenice, and no hot glazing just burnish with canvas. The watch strap is used daily since i made it and the edge is still durable and nice.
  3. Depending on the type of leather i don't think you can avoid it, there will always be a little line there. But you can reduce it. Don't glue all the way to the edge. Let the glue dry completely. If the glue isn't completely dry you will "push" the glue in between the two layers and it doesn't matter how much you sand and burnish. I have found out that firmer leather reduces the glue line, so maybe try leather hardener on the edge, and sand it down before you burnish. Good luck, and don't forget to give us some feedback of your results.
  4. They are willing to sell a couple of "sample hides" after that it's 50 square metre/color.
  5. DR80

    White Leather

    leathercrafttools. It's quite expensive but nice. http://www.leathercrafttools.com/leather/leather-sheet/dyed-leather/list.jsp
  6. Sale? Abbeyengland sell them for 17£
  7. Thank you. I haven't made the order yet, Can't decide if i want Blanchard or AmyRoke. Do you have a better recommendation for the round awl? i have one now, but it's not good, use it for applying edge paint, for that it works
  8. I don't know really, but it wouldn't be a quick job. (Especially not if it's lined) And i wouldn't use the awl to coat the edge. And probably try Giardini instead since it's thicker. (From what i've heard) On a veg tan belt i would probably go for oil dye and burnish with a dremel. Good for me is that my primary interests is Wallets and watch straps Have you tried leather hardener on lined belts? i think it would reduce the glue line a lot. I burnished a watch strap made with some relatively stiff leather and the glue line almost disappeared. And someone suggested this step for softer veg-tan. Leather hardener --> sand --> and regular burnish and dye. Here is a pic of the watch strap. Just oil dye and burnished.
  9. Since you worked with this paint longer then me, i believe you have a good knowledge of what makes the edge peel off. I have used one of my wallet for a month or so, and really tried to make the edge peel off but it looks perfect. Don't take this wrong, but wrote down a few things i have found weaken the edge. (If no help for you it might be a help for other. 1. Burnishing before painting. 2. Sanding with to hith grit of sandpaper before first coat. 3. A large bevel on the edge. (It tensions the paint to much in the other corner when you fold) 4. Try to fold something before it has hardened. Like closing the wallet completely. I wait until the day after before i make a "hard" close of the wallet. 5. Not sanding the edge completely flat between layers. small craters where you haven't reach with the sanding paper, it will not bond good there. Are there better edge paint out there? Yes. Are they easy to use? I don't know since i haven't tried them yet. But CT Beraud and Vernis600 are two of these. I think both are waxbased. Ct beraud are for sure. I will talk more about those edge finishes when i have tried them (need an electric creaser and wax spatula first.
  10. The baby calf is not from D'annonay. But if someone knows from which tannery it is so please tell me.
  11. How are Giardini compared to Fenice. Still that "plastic/rubber feeling" I don't really like it. Going to try Vernis600 and Beraud, have you tried those?
  12. Of course i understand that people use different methods, but this works for me, and i have seen this question here quite often. I'm working with vegetable tanned leather, so the method can be a little different with chrome tanned. And the grit of the sandpaper of course don't have to be exact what i use. 1. Sand the edge with some rougher paper like 80 and finish with 400. 2. Coat the edge with your first layer. 3. Let dry. 4. Burnish (i use a canvas cloth) (Don't use the same as you using with beeswax.) A electric creaser works here too (but i don't own one.) 5. Sand the edge very slightly with 400 and continue with a paper around 800-1200. 6. Coat the edge with your second layer of edge paint. 4. Let dry. (5. If you sanded through the paint after the first coat (which you probably did.) then burnish again.) 6. Sand the edge, now the edge is probably good enough so you can use the 800-1200 grit. (No need for 400) 7. If the edge is smooth and nice then burnish it with a canvas cloth and beeswax. (I put beeswax on the cloth instead of the edge.) Most times i repeat the process (paint, sanding) three or four times before i'm finished.) The attached file is after two layers of paint. (two pieces glued together.) It's hard to take good pictures without a proper camera. And the close up light reinforces the very small defects in the surface, but if you look close i have sanded through in on corners, so the edge would need one more layer. If anyone has better idea's how to do this, maybe quicker or thinks i'm doing something wrong please tell. The procedure should be about the same with Giardini. I hope you understand me, although my english grammar is far from perfect. Have a nice evening.
  13. I'm a little unsure if i choose the matching tools. What i want. No9 pricking irons (10 prong and 2 prong) enough? or do i need no1? A matching awl. A round awl for corners. Pricking iron No9,10: http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/fiche_produit.cfm?ref=3_702_0910&type=14&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2 Pricking iron No9,2: http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/fiche_produit.cfm?ref=3_702_0902&type=14&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2 Awl: http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/fiche_produit.cfm?ref=3_904_038&type=17&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2 Round awl: http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/fiche_produit.cfm?ref=3_899_04&type=17&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2 I do watch straps and wallets and such, and i use Fil au chinois lin cable 632 (A good match?)
  14. Yes maybe the result are decent, and i know i have a little high demands on my results. I have only done this for a couple of months so i few mistakes here and there is inevitable. Yes punch from both sides either as 25B or with portmanteau seems to work good, but it's not always possible to do with good results, like when i do a watch strap with padding, it's going to be complicated to punch from both sides. But with your tension angles i think i might get pretty good results on those straps. I appreciate your help, thank you.
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