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How To Prepare A Straight Edge Before Strap Cutting

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What's the best way to prepare a straight edge before using the strap cutter? I saw the tutorial in this forum using the box cutter. I have tried a few practice cuts on scrap with a small ruler and an exacto knife. Although I get a straight line, the cut is not exactly vertical from top cut to bottom cut. What am I doing wrong, or is the exacto not the preffered cutter of choice?

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I have a 60" long aluminum ruler and a heavy duty snap-off blade knife that I use to get the first straight cut. I use a fresh section of blade and hold the ruler steady with heavy pressure from my left hand and right knee while I make the cut with my right hand. Works just fine as long as the ruler doesn't slip.

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It depends on how straight you want that first line. An aluminum ruler that has a layer of cork glued to the bottom side does not slip and slide hardly at all.

A drywall knife with a new blade that has been stropped 50 -75 licks will cut through any 9 oz or less leather I have ever encountered, . . . and do it in one pass.

A "last resort" that will give you a straight enough lne for most things, . . . is the old carpenter's chalk line. Just don't get too much chalk on it as you pull it out. It works well if you have a side you are trying to even up or something like that.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I use a 6 foot ruler and a 45 mm roller blade cutter. The roller blade will got through about everything up to 14 oz. With that it wll score it enogh that a quick pass with a roundknife in the cutline will do the job.

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I mark it with a straight edge, hang it off the table and cut it with a round knife. THEN I use a strap cutter and cut a 1 1/4" strap, then turn the strap around and cut a 1" strap which leaves your 1/4" with the uneveness. I can always use a 1" strap and I use the 1/4" piece to tie up the side after I roll it up.

Kevin

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I use a 6 foot ruler and a 45 mm roller blade cutter. The roller blade will got through about everything up to 14 oz. With that it wll score it enogh that a quick pass with a roundknife in the cutline will do the job.

Bingo! I always use a roller blade for true vertical cut. If you get some 1/4" bar stock (~$6.00 for three feet) you can run the blade down that to guarantee it stays true.

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Bingo! I always use a roller blade for true vertical cut. If you get some 1/4" bar stock (~$6.00 for three feet) you can run the blade down that to guarantee it stays true.

Where do you get bar stock at?

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Where do you get bar stock at?

Lowes. Home Depot, places like that. It's best to test the straight edge before buying it, btw. I find a 36" level and check for light gaps when they're butted together. Aluminum stock usually has a cleaner edge, but the weight of the steel stock helps keep the leather in place. A couple of quick grip clamps and it's not going anywhere anyway, however.

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I use a steel framing square, works for me.

If the leather has a curl I'll clamp it down prior to cutting.

Kevin.

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I use a steel framing square, works for me.

If the leather has a curl I'll clamp it down prior to cutting.

Kevin.

I have more than one, they're very useful. I have found that bar stock can be very good for make imperishable patterns. If you have welding and grinding experience you can make a pattern out of bar stock that simply will not "fold, spindle or mutilate" (how long since you say that phrase?) under any reasonable condition. You can cut your own stock and have a local welder stick it together for a few bucks. (I have a friend who does it at home in his spare time to pick up a few extra bucks.) On patterns I know I'll be using many, many times it's the logical long-term solution. I drill the holes in the stock as well, and have been known to drill the leather as well, something you have to experiment with before getting it right. (A very sharp bit is required I find.) I use 1/8th bar stock for those. Maybe overkill for most people, but it works for me, so I'm happy with it. Your mileage may vary.

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you could get a thick 2" aluminum rule. take a 1/4" strip of wood the size of the rule an glue it to the bottom.that'll give plenty of height to keep the blade at 90 degrees. glad it was

mentioned about the bar stock. i have a 1/4" thick piece about 5" wide and 5' long. plenty of weight so not to move.

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I use a 6 foot ruler and a 45 mm roller blade cutter. The roller blade will got through about everything up to 14 oz. With that it wll score it enogh that a quick pass with a roundknife in the cutline will do the job.

What roller blade cutter do you recommend for cutting up to 14 oz

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I use 6' 3' 2' foot aluminum rule but also use 4' aluminum dry wall square

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