Making My First Bag - Need To Know What I Need To Know

[MedusaOblongata]

I'm a long time lover of leather, and have been doing a lot of reading on the forums here and watching YouTube.
I want to make a few different shoulder bags for personal use. I have some leather that will be good enough to start with - after some practice I'll look into buying more expensive, better leather.
I won't be doing any tooling or stamping at first, just looking to make the bags.

1. I currently don't have any leatherworking tools, what I think I'll need is:
(feel free to revise this list)

Wing Dividers
Strap end punch
Adjustable V-Gauge
Belever/Skiver
Strap Cutter
Small head knife
Burnishing bit for Dremel
Adjustable stitching groover
Some type of cutting board (is there a better or cheaper option than the ones at Michael's?)

Overstitch wheel
Diamond awl
Pricking Iron - Since I'll be hand sewing, it doesn't have to look too refined, I want to go with 4 stitches per inch. Many of the tools I see advertised online are measured in mm, and they don't always mention the size of the holes and the spacing in between the holes.

2. Harbor freight has a cheap 1/2 ton arbor press - is it a good idea to use that with a pricking iron and rivet setter, rather than using a hammer?

3. What would be the strongest black thread, and the right needles for use with that thread, for saddle stitching?

4. I have some jiffy rivets and a setter, are those strong enough, or is there something better for stress points.

5. I don't need professional quality tools, I'm looking for a balance between decent quality and affordable price.

How much can I expect to tell my girlfriend all of this will cost? - I've promised to maker her a purse.

6. Can you suggest sources or post links to the right tools to get with a good quality/price ratio?

7. I would like to use tuck buckles for closure, but the ones I've seen attach with those thin bendable prongs, which don't look all that strong or durable - is there a better option?

I live within driving distance to Oregon Leather Co. so I could pick up some things there in person.

Thank you,
and, I promise I'll post pictures when I have something to show,

Jason aka MeduaOblongata

[dbusarow]

Mine in bold

1. I currently don't have any leatherworking tools, what I think I'll need is:

(feel free to revise this list)

Wing Dividers Useful

Strap end punch Not needed until you are looking to save time

Adjustable V-Gauge How useful would depend on bag's design, I rarely use mine

Belever/Skiver Get a good skiving knife (straight cutting edge about 3" long)

Strap Cutter Essential

Small head knife Essential for me, others manage with utility knives

Burnishing bit for Dremel Good idea

Adjustable stitching groover For hand sewing, required. Get the one where the cutting tip is inline with the handle, can be used free-hand

Some type of cutting board (is there a better or cheaper option than the ones at Michael's?) HDPE from Walmart, I actually use some sheet steel I had left from a project years ago

Overstitch wheel Yes, makes a lot of difference in the look of the stitches. You can also use it to mark your stitch holes.

Diamond awl Esential, get a good one, actually get two. You can use an Osborne handle with the chuck to save a little money, but get a Bob Douglas awl blade. You probably want the small blade.

Pricking Iron - Since I'll be hand sewing, it doesn't have to look too refined, I want to go with 4 stitches per inch. Many of the tools I see advertised online are measured in mm, and they don't always mention the size of the holes and the spacing in between the holes.

Hmm, at 4 spi I'll revise my blade suggestion, that is Bob Doglas standard size blade territory. Start out using your overstitch wheel to mark the stitch holes. Hold off on the pricking iron until you get to finer stitches.

2. Harbor freight has a cheap 1/2 ton arbor press - is it a good idea to use that with a pricking iron and rivet setter, rather than using a hammer?

No! Pricking iron requires only a gentle tap, for rivets the tool required depends on the type of rivet. For jiffy rivets I use a cheap pair of linesman pliers that I ground the teeth off of and then polished.

3. What would be the strongest black thread, and the right needles for use with that thread, for saddle stitching?

I use 4 cord linen for my hand sewing. I doubt a shoulder bag needs any more than that. You will probably want somewhere in the neighborhood of 7 cord for 4spi

4. I have some jiffy rivets and a setter, are those strong enough, or is there something better for stress points.

Depends on what you use them for. I suggest riveting a couple of peices of leather together. Make sure you set the rivet correctly. Then try to break it. You'll probably be surprised.

5. I don't need professional quality tools, I'm looking for a balance between decent quality and affordable price.

How much can I expect to tell my girlfriend all of this will cost? - I've promised to maker her a purse.

More than buying a new bag.

6. Can you suggest sources or post links to the right tools to get with a good quality/price ratio?

Springfield Leather, Ohio Travel Bag, Weaver Leather

7. I would like to use tuck buckles for closure, but the ones I've seen attach with those thin bendable prongs, which don't look all that strong or durable - is there a better option?

Not sure what those are. There are a ton of buckles available. See sources above.

I live within driving distance to Oregon Leather Co. so I could pick up some things there in person.

Thank you,

and, I promise I'll post pictures when I have something to show,

Jason aka MeduaOblongata

Dan

Edited August 26, 2014 by dbusarow

[whipstitchwallets]

You may find this book useful: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook-Techniques/dp/1844034747

[billybopp]

That's a pretty good list to start out with, but I'd make a few changes if I were starting over again.

1. Wing Dividers: Really handy. Don't go cheap, they need to be pretty sturdy. Even better, they're useful for 101 things around the house.

Strap end punch: Expensive, hard to find good quality, and a little harder to use than they seem! Skip this one early on, and hand cut your strap ends with a sharp knife and a circle guide of some sort ( a coin, a jar lid, or even a can depending on size). Buy a strap punch later when you get a better feel for strap sized that you like, etc. When you do buy, consider vintage tools. They are usually better quality.

Adjustable V-gouge: Useful is you need to make relatively acute corners with a single piece of leather. Otherwise, not quite so much. Depending on the designs you have in mind, you might hold off on this one. Not insanely expensive, in any case. (I bought one early on and didn't use it for years.)

Skiver: Essential tool. You might start with a "safety beveler". Cheap at $5. Be sure to get a package or two of extra blades (probably more expensive than the knife!). A solid skiver knife will be pretty pricey, and you'll have to have some skills to keep it sharp.

Strap Cutter: Essential tool: Wooden ones are not overly expensive, and very useful. See if you can find "the original strap cutter", as opposed to a knock off. I have a knock off, and it's OK, but folks that have used both say there is a difference. Be sure to get extra blades, or some on here have suggested that the above-mentioned skiver blades work better than the purpose blades. Others have mention Schick Injector razor blades as cheaper and better, if you can find them. There are also a few useful modifications that can be made to wooden strap cutters. Poke around on here and you'll find them.

Head knife: I'd go a different route to start. In order to get a good head knife, you will have to spend at least $100. Vintage is usually better than new. You also have to have some sharpening skills with these.

Instead, I'd buy a decent utility knife such as Stanley, and good blades. Somebody on here recommended Irwin bi-metal blades recently, so that might be worth a go. Add one or two hobby knives, such as x-acto #1 and #2 with their associated blades and you're good to go. Some people really like the rotary cutters, and they work great on straight lines, but I find them hard to get around curves.

Burnishing bit: Useful tool, but ... I'd suggest getting a hand burnisher to begin and learn with, and add the power burinsher later.. A Dremel with a burnisher can pretty quickly over do the job. If you get a feel for how it should be by hand first, you then know what to look for when you do switch. Either way, get a hand burnisher. They have their uses even if you power burnish.

Stitching groover: Useful tool. Get one something like Tandy's Pro stitching groover, It has changeable bits so that it can cut a groove, or a make a crease. I also find it easier to use since the pressure on the "blade" is straight down from your hand, rather than off to the side as with other groovers. I prefer a crease over a groove to keep stitch lines straight in most of the things I make.

Cutting board: Essential. The self healing mats are nice, but a regular ol' plastic kitchen cutting board will work just fine. It's what I used for years. Wal-mar, k-mark, any kitchen store .. Within the limits of your work space, bigger is better. You'll have to re-position things less with a bigger board.

Overstitch wheel: Not really necessary IF you will be using pricking irons. Tandy has one three wheels of differing stitch length (5, 6, and 7 SPI, I think). It might be better to start here rather than with pricking irons (they are pretty pricey). Other, better wheels are available in other sizes as well, but usually they are a one-size tool.

Diamond Awl: Essential for stitching. Width of the blade, length of the blade, profile of the blade, and size and shape of the handle are all dependent on what you are doing and personal preference. It ain't an easy equation. If you really want to sew at 4spi, you'll be using thick thread, and will want a wider blade. For handbags, you probably will not go through terribly thick leather, so a shorter blade will do .. I find shorter blades a little easier to work with since a small movement of the hand makes a small movement at the blade tip. Longer blade, more movement. I also prefer a blade with straight sides or a very mild taper. You want the holes on both sides of the leather to be close to the same size.

Pricking Iron: Quite useful, but not essential if you use the overstitch wheel. I think I'd hold off on these until you are certain what stitch lengths you like to use. If you look back at some of the threads on here for the last couple of months, you'll find that pricking irons has been a hot topic with some pretty prickly debate (sorry for the bad pun). It's a little too much to go into here and now.

ADDED TOOLS:

Straight edge: Steel or aluminum. Cork or rubber backed. One short ( 12 - 16" or so ). One long (36" or more). And possibly one very short such as a pocket ruler.

Sandpaper: Various grits. Anything finer than 300 or 400 is probably wasted effort on leather.

Edger: Possibly a couple of different sizes, depending on how thick the leather is. Takes off the corner of a piece of leather to help give it a better look and feel. Used before burnishing, which completes the job.

Sharpening stones: ( and associated oil, etc). Various grades to sharpen tools initially, finer grades to keep them sharp when dulled.

Strop board and grit: You can make a decent strop from a piece of leather and wood, or you can buy them. Either way is good. I have some of both. Most people seem to go with "Green" (relatively fine) compound to strop their tools. I have a some coarser grit compounds as well, but green is used the most.

Hammers: A hammer in the 16-24 ounce range is useful for a number of things. Setting rivets and snaps, tapping glued pieces, tapping down stitches. I'd start with a rawhide hammer. It will work passably for most things, at least for awhile. A dead-blow hammer is nice for setting rivets and snaps, but a little much for may other uses.

Pliers: A set of small smooth jawed pliers can be useful for a number or things, but especially for sewing. Once in awhile you just can't get enough grip to pull a needle through. Pliers such as these will help with that and not mar the surface of the needle. *note .. If that happens more than once in awhile, thread/needle is too big for the hole ... Or vice versa!

I'm sure I've forgotten something, but darn if I can remember what it is.

Arbor Press: I'd skip it to start with. NOT for use with pricking irons. I'd hand-set rivets for at least a little while, and then think about a proper rivet setter rather than an arbor press. Check out this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51602&hl= Arbor presses have their uses, and if you had one around already, or had lots of use for stamping letters ( and other things that arbors are good at) it would be worth modifying. Otherwise, a rivet setter will work better.

Thread: I like the poly woven thread, such as Tiger. I've used both Tiger and Chinese non-brand versions. Tiger is nicer to use, but the other stuff is good too. 1mm is that thickest available that I'm aware of, but I haven't really looked for anything thicker than that. Opinions vary widely about thread, and much of it personal preference and the look that you want to go for in your work. I would suggest that Tiger is the nicest option for you as you learn to hand stitch, despite it's price at something like $45 a roll. It can be had in smaller amounts from various places for less overall cost, although at higher cost per foot.

Needles: Saddler's needles, or harness needles. Many have recommended John James brand, although there is some confusion as to size vs. their numbering system. I have not major complaints with Tandy's needles.

Rivets: I like double-capped rivets as opposed to the hollow backed "rapid rivets". Rapid rivets have a pretty sharp edge at the back of the post part which can cut into the leather with use. Rapid rivets ARE useful if you will be gluing a liner or something over the back since they don't create a bump. Double caps are better about not cutting into leather, are prettier, and seem a bit stronger to boot. Both types set about the same way. There are other options such as copper rivets (VERY strong, not so pretty) and Chicago screws ( useful for a number or things and reasons, but a little clunky).

Tool sources: For a middle-of the road approach to tools, I'm happy with the Seiwa awls and irons I got at http://www.goodsjapan.jp/ ... just be sure to pay for their expedited shipping or be prepared to wait. Others have suggested http://www.leathercrafttools.com/ for many of the same Japanese tools at less cost, but I can't tell you anything more about that website. Check the sponsor websites, listed in the banner ads at the top of the webpages. They all have various tools of various quality and price levels.

Enjoy!

Bill