Sewing Conversion

[1911 Operator]

Hello all, I need some expert advice.

I have been trolling Craigslist for a long time looking for a commercial machine that would help me get in to Machine sewing leather. I came across a persona advertising a Juki 5550, Without looking too closely, i paid $200 bucks for it and brought it home. I knew this was not a "real" leather machine. But I figured i would learn with this and do what I could and upgrade later. So, after a little time in the garage, it's NOT a juki 5550, its a Feiyue GC5550, which looks exactly the same. After some research it seems to me that the juki, feiyue and maybe Yamata all might come from the same place. just a hypothesis based on mediocre googling.

This machine was meant for draperies and the like. It's a straight stitch 5550 stitches per whatever. And the largest needle i can get in there is a 18.

My plan:

I have already removed the Needle plunger that holds the needle and enlarged the needle hole so that it will accept a 23. Is this a bad idea?

I am looking for a good price on a new servo controlled adjustable motor, to change the speed. feel free to make suggestions.

If i have this would i still need a speed reducer to increase torque?

a weighted hand wheel to increase torque? Maybe this would eliminate the need for a Speed reducer?

I still haven't read in to the kind of foot I want... I make holster and related paraphernalia, I would be using the machine for belts, pouches, and other items where straight and flat will work.

also i'm still not sure if the Bobbin set up in the machine needs changed...

I will still hand sew holsters.

The main question is, Am I setting myself up for a $500 dollar disappointment? of can I mickey mouse this into working?

thanks for your input.

[busted]

Hello all, I need some expert advice.

I have been trolling Craigslist for a long time looking for a commercial machine that would help me get in to Machine sewing leather. I came across a persona advertising a Juki 5550, Without looking too closely, i paid $200 bucks for it and brought it home. I knew this was not a "real" leather machine. But I figured i would learn with this and do what I could and upgrade later. So, after a little time in the garage, it's NOT a juki 5550, its a Feiyue GC5550, which looks exactly the same. After some research it seems to me that the juki, feiyue and maybe Yamata all might come from the same place. just a hypothesis based on mediocre googling.

This machine was meant for draperies and the like. It's a straight stitch 5550 stitches per whatever. And the largest needle i can get in there is a 18.

My plan:

I have already removed the Needle plunger that holds the needle and enlarged the needle hole so that it will accept a 23. Is this a bad idea?

I am looking for a good price on a new servo controlled adjustable motor, to change the speed. feel free to make suggestions.

If i have this would i still need a speed reducer to increase torque?

a weighted hand wheel to increase torque? Maybe this would eliminate the need for a Speed reducer?

I still haven't read in to the kind of foot I want... I make holster and related paraphernalia, I would be using the machine for belts, pouches, and other items where straight and flat will work.

also i'm still not sure if the Bobbin set up in the machine needs changed...

I will still hand sew holsters.

The main question is, Am I setting myself up for a $500 dollar disappointment? of can I mickey mouse this into working?

thanks for your input.

You are going to end up with a 500 disappointment. It will work for the thinner material say 2 pieces of 5 or 6 ounce stacked up.

I don't think the presser foot lifts much beyond 3/8 inch maybe 1/2, this is not enough to sew holsters with.

The speed reducer would be needed for the thinner material also. I make my own with two pulleys one is 2 inch and the other is

9 inch. Make sure there is clearance between the pulleys so the belts don't rub the pulley. I drill through both pulleys with two

1/8 or 5/32 holes at 180 degrees apart and put a roll pin in them to lock them in place. A piece of 3/8 inch flat stock bent to

a right angle with a 2 1/2 inch X 3/4 inch to mount the pulleys on. The flat stock needs to be around 12 or 14 inches inches

(watch the radius of your 9" pulley) with a 2 1/2 inch bend on the short side. The 3/4" bolt fits to the long side about 1 1/2"

from the bottom of the other side. Weld it in place after you get the hole drilled. If there is enough room on the flange of the

pulley you might want to install a grease fitting too.

Good luck.

[Wizcrafts]

Hello all, I need some expert advice.

I have been trolling Craigslist for a long time looking for a commercial machine that would help me get in to Machine sewing leather. I came across a persona advertising a Juki 5550, Without looking too closely, i paid $200 bucks for it and brought it home. I knew this was not a "real" leather machine. But I figured i would learn with this and do what I could and upgrade later. So, after a little time in the garage, it's NOT a juki 5550, its a Feiyue GC5550, which looks exactly the same. After some research it seems to me that the juki, feiyue and maybe Yamata all might come from the same place. just a hypothesis based on mediocre googling.

This machine was meant for draperies and the like. It's a straight stitch 5550 stitches per whatever. And the largest needle i can get in there is a 18.

My plan:

I have already removed the Needle plunger that holds the needle and enlarged the needle hole so that it will accept a 23. Is this a bad idea?

I am looking for a good price on a new servo controlled adjustable motor, to change the speed. feel free to make suggestions.

If i have this would i still need a speed reducer to increase torque?

a weighted hand wheel to increase torque? Maybe this would eliminate the need for a Speed reducer?

I still haven't read in to the kind of foot I want... I make holster and related paraphernalia, I would be using the machine for belts, pouches, and other items where straight and flat will work.

also i'm still not sure if the Bobbin set up in the machine needs changed...

I will still hand sew holsters.

The main question is, Am I setting myself up for a $500 dollar disappointment? of can I mickey mouse this into working?

thanks for your input.

First of all, the machine you bought is designed to sew garments and drapery, not leather. It takes a #18 needle maximum, which indicates that the largest thread it can manage is #69. You can put the world's most sophisticated motor under the table and bore out the needlebar to hold a number 27 needle, but the mechanism in the take-up and bobbin systems will still only be able to sew with #69 thread.

You have wasted whatever you paid for that machine if you intend to sew leather, other than garment leather, with it. Even then, you will need to convert the feed to a roller foot and matching feed dog and throat plate.

[1911 Operator]

You are going to end up with a 500 disappointment. It will work for the thinner material say 2 pieces of 5 or 6 ounce stacked up.

I don't think the presser foot lifts much beyond 3/8 inch maybe 1/2, this is not enough to sew holsters with.

The speed reducer would be needed for the thinner material also. I make my own with two pulleys one is 2 inch and the other is

9 inch. Make sure there is clearance between the pulleys so the belts don't rub the pulley. I drill through both pulleys with two

1/8 or 5/32 holes at 180 degrees apart and put a roll pin in them to lock them in place. A piece of 3/8 inch flat stock bent to

a right angle with a 2 1/2 inch X 3/4 inch to mount the pulleys on. The flat stock needs to be around 12 or 14 inches inches

(watch the radius of your 9" pulley) with a 2 1/2 inch bend on the short side. The 3/4" bolt fits to the long side about 1 1/2"

from the bottom of the other side. Weld it in place after you get the hole drilled. If there is enough room on the flange of the

pulley you might want to install a grease fitting too.

Good luck.

Thanks for the DIY info, I'm going to find some pullies and make this...

First of all, the machine you bought is designed to sew garments and drapery, not leather. It takes a #18 needle maximum, which indicates that the largest thread it can manage is #69. You can put the world's most sophisticated motor under the table and bore out the needlebar to hold a number 27 needle, but the mechanism in the take-up and bobbin systems will still only be able to sew with #69 thread.

You have wasted whatever you paid for that machine if you intend to sew leather, other than garment leather, with it. Even then, you will need to convert the feed to a roller foot and matching feed dog and throat plate.

Wizcrafts, I knew you would have a good dose of reality for me.

Well since the Money is already wasted, I think I'm gong to give it a shot. but you do bring up a very good point

"need to convert the feed to a roller foot and matching feed dog and throat plate"

would you have any suggestions on where I can read more about this?

or a good place to find these parts?

Thanks both of you, I will update this thread on how big it fails...

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for the DIY info, I'm going to find some pullies and make this...

Wizcrafts, I knew you would have a good dose of reality for me.

Well since the Money is already wasted, I think I'm gong to give it a shot. but you do bring up a very good point

"need to convert the feed to a roller foot and matching feed dog and throat plate"

would you have any suggestions on where I can read more about this?

or a good place to find these parts?

Thanks both of you, I will update this thread on how big it fails...

It so happens that Bob Kovar, of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, sells a roller conversion set. Call him, at 866-362-7397 and ask for the 3 piece roller foot conversion for your particular Juki clone machine.

Bob also sells needles, bobbins, cases, thread, parts, attachments and edge guides for most industrial sewing machines.