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Lizard

Holster Stitching Holes

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Hi, I'm new to Leatherworker, so I'm not sure where to ask this but here goes. I've been reading the posts on here and picking up some really good advice but this is my first post. I make a few holsters as a hobby for myself, friends and family. This is kind of how my process goes. Cut out the pattern, rough in the edges, groove the front for stitching, glue the holster, mark then drill the stitching holes along the grooved stitching line, groove the back where the drilled holes came through, saddle stitch, wet mold, dye and finish. My proplem is the drilled holes. They work OK for sewing, but when grooving the back there are little raised areas that kind of look like mini gopher mounds around the drilled hole and it's really difficult to groove over these mounds and get a neat job. I've tried chucking up a needle and drilling the holes, but with pretty much the same results, except a smaller tighter hole to try and sew up. Broke a few needles on that one. This may be a crazy question, but it's been buging me for a while. This might be an easy fix, and I hope those of you with much more experience than I can help.

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Hi, I'm new to Leatherworker, so I'm not sure where to ask this but here goes. I've been reading the posts on here and picking up some really good advice but this is my first post. I make a few holsters as a hobby for myself, friends and family. This is kind of how my process goes. Cut out the pattern, rough in the edges, groove the front for stitching, glue the holster, mark then drill the stitching holes along the grooved stitching line, groove the back where the drilled holes came through, saddle stitch, wet mold, dye and finish. My proplem is the drilled holes. They work OK for sewing, but when grooving the back there are little raised areas that kind of look like mini gopher mounds around the drilled hole and it's really difficult to groove over these mounds and get a neat job. I've tried chucking up a needle and drilling the holes, but with pretty much the same results, except a smaller tighter hole to try and sew up. Broke a few needles on that one. This may be a crazy question, but it's been buging me for a while. This might be an easy fix, and I hope those of you with much more experience than I can help.

I started the same way. I switched to saddle stitching using a diamond shaped stitching awl, and make the holes as I'm stitching, rather than before. This way I can groove the front and the back ahead of time, and guide the awl blade to come out through the groove on the back as I'm stitching. It makes for a cleaner look.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12259

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I use an awl blade as well. I chuck it up in a drill press and punch my holes (pre-marked with a stitching wheel). The drill is not on, I just use the press to get nice, straight holes. Perviously I used a goover on the back side of my holsters, but I've found that it's not really neccessary.

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I used to use a Dremel to drill holes, but either the holes would be too big and stand out like a sore thumb, or they'd be too small, and I'd break needles and end up with puckers at every single hole. On the plus side, the high speed of the Dremel resulted in no "gopher mounds" as you describe.

I resisted going to a diamond awl for the longest time, but once I got the hang of it, I don't see myself ever going back, except maybe for belts.

I do all my stitching in my recliner, while kinda/sorta watching TV. The average holster is good for 3 episodes of 24. :thumbsup:

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This is some good info. Everyone says go to an awl, guess I'll have to get myself an awl and learn to use it.

Woodandsteel - Thanks for the link, it was very informative.

Big O - I've been using my dremel on a slow speed, maybe I should crank that baby up and see how it turns out, Thanks.

Thanks again for all the advice,

Lizard

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Hi, I'm new to Leatherworker, so I'm not sure where to ask this but here goes. I've been reading the posts on here and picking up some really good advice but this is my first post. I make a few holsters as a hobby for myself, friends and family. This is kind of how my process goes. Cut out the pattern, rough in the edges, groove the front for stitching, glue the holster, mark then drill the stitching holes along the grooved stitching line, groove the back where the drilled holes came through, saddle stitch, wet mold, dye and finish. My proplem is the drilled holes. They work OK for sewing, but when grooving the back there are little raised areas that kind of look like mini gopher mounds around the drilled hole and it's really difficult to groove over these mounds and get a neat job. I've tried chucking up a needle and drilling the holes, but with pretty much the same results, except a smaller tighter hole to try and sew up. Broke a few needles on that one. This may be a crazy question, but it's been buging me for a while. This might be an easy fix, and I hope those of you with much more experience than I can help.

Lizard, I am new to Leatherworker.net, but I have been working with leather for years! Holsters have always been my favorite. I too still hand stitch and have been through a lot of trial and error. I often wet form my holster with the weapon intended to be carried in it. Heavy oil and Saran Wrap keep the weapon in perfect condition. I choose a piece of leather big enough to complete the project and then wet my leather thoroughly, I begin forming it around the gun. Once I have formed the leather like I like it, I will begin to trim away excess leather around the top to begin to give the holster the look that I am after. Now I take my overstitch wheel and roll out my stitching line around the gun as close to it as possible, making sure I am on a flat plane all the way around. I then take small stainless nails or tacks and drive them through the leather at strategic points around the project into a piece of wood backing. The key here is to drive the tack in one of the overstitch marks! Gently remove the gun and touch up any forming that my have been affected and then Let it dry. Before it is completely dry I go over the stitching line with my stitching groover. The marks are still present from the overstitch wheel. I then punch each hole individually with a single diamond shaped chisel. Most times I run the stitching groover on the back side as well. I then moisten the stitching line and run the overtstitch wheel over it again to make good impressions for the stitch to lay in. The only time I have drilled holes is when I add numerous layers of leather to create what I call a welt. I will do this on the back side of the holster to accomodate thick barrels, cylinders, and semi-autos along the stitching line. You will get your "gopher mounds" at this point as well. That is how my process goes, slow, tedious, but comes out looking like a machine did it. Good luck and hope my .02 cents helps.

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I agree that a diamond awl is the only way to go. I cut my stitching grove, dampend my leather and mark for my awl holes using a 5

or 6 to the inch stitching wheel. Nowis will punch my stitching holes three or four at a time using a stitching pony to hold my project,

Practise with your hole so that you are punching your holes at a 45 degree angle. I sew with the leather slightly damp as it

pulls in a sets your stitches bettr than sewing dry leather. Hope this helps out some.

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I used a drill press early on. When I drilled my holes, I always made sure to have a scrap piece of wood behind the leather - this helps to produce a MUCH cleaner hole as the bit exits the leather. If you haven't tried that yet, give it a shot. Also, once you're done sewing, dampen the leather and run over the stitches with your overstitch wheel - this will help to even out the thread and push down the puckers. You can also run your bone folder over the thread to help push it into the leather right after you wet the holster for forming.

Here's one of my early holsters where I used a drill press for the holes.

750833224_mnzFf-L.jpg

750831017_pfBZ2-L.jpg

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Thanks Particle, I never thought about a backer behind the leather when I drilled. But I do want to get an awl and give it a try. I was looking at awls on ebay and saw there was sizes 1,2, and 3. Which size would be best for holsters? Also, who makes a good awl? Thanks to everyone for all the good advice.

Lizard

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