Jdavies Report post Posted February 28, 2009 After stitching and trimming the back of my cantle binding I am finding that my stamped border is sometimes not parallel with the binding, especially when it gets down around the points of the cantle. Some turn out fine others are not. I was wondering how you pros out there get a nice EVEN border that follows the cantle binding. I have heard of some who stamp the cantle back when it is on the tree but I don't. (maybe that is my problem) I hope my question is understandable. If I knew how to post pictures I would but my wife is not around right now. I've wondered if it is due to stretch after stamping but my cantle back always seems to fit properly again. Any advice would be great. THANKS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Casey Jordan Report post Posted February 28, 2009 Justin, I like to tool the swell and cantle back on the tree. I tool the swell after the seat is in place so I can tool around the seat jockeys and have a nice even border around the jockeys. It is harder to tool this way, but the outcome is worth it for me. Hope this helps! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted February 28, 2009 I tried tooling a back cantle on the tree once.... and ONLY once. It was almost impossible for me. So, I just make sure everything is lined up right before I install it. The jockey line must be established if you want a border on the bottom, so I fit them up enough to make a mark where they will go. The binding can be a problem on cheyenne rolls, because there is an element of surprise there. Oops, a little too thick here, a bit thinner there, it goes into the fold more or less, thus you have a wavey border line. However, that is something you just have to be aware of when installing the binding. Make room for the fold when you fit your back cantle piece. Keep your binding as even as possible, run it through a splitter or just skive it as evenly as you can. It all comes together back there and your skill shows on that border line. That's why you try to avoid making one! heheh. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kseidel Report post Posted February 28, 2009 This is one area where real skill shows and yields consistent results. If you want consistently accurate borders, you must first fit all of the parts as they will be when finished. I like to fit up an entire saddle before tooling. This allows me to inspect the overall picture, and to draw in the border lines where I want them without any guesswork. Sometimes tools can make the difference. I use a pair of outside dividers to mark the top of the cantle on the cantle back. It is easy to keep the inside leg on the top of the cantle and still get an accurate line on the cantle back. It is important to keep the correct angle around the cantle from top to the corners. There will be a bit of trial and experimenting to hone this skill. I is the easiest that I have found, and is less subject to a varying thickness of leather. I add about 1/4" to the width of the border on the rest of the saddle for the border on the cantle back. If you are putting a filler between the cantle back and the tree, you need to allow for the extra thickness, especially for cheyenne rolls. Example: for a 3/8" border, I allow 5/8" from the top of the cantle line. Keith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jdavies Report post Posted March 1, 2009 thanks to all for the advice. I think I'm on the right track. It's a matter of practice, practice, practice. (maybe even a few redo's) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
