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My First Stitching Groover

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Hi, I've been making wallets for a few months now. I basically just ordered some leather and an awl off eBay and have been learning from there. Now, after some research, I see that a stitching groover will help recess the thread and provide a more finished look. I've done a bit of looking around, and see the Tandy sells for around 15$. I've seen some others that sell for 100$. On Amazon, I read the reviews, and the Tandy didn't fair well. Can you all point me to a good value tool? I don't mind spending the right amount of money on one, just not sure where to start here.

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Hi, I've been making wallets for a few months now. I basically just ordered some leather and an awl off eBay and have been learning from there. Now, after some research, I see that a stitching groover will help recess the thread and provide a more finished look. I've done a bit of looking around, and see the Tandy sells for around 15$. I've seen some others that sell for 100$. On Amazon, I read the reviews, and the Tandy didn't fair well. Can you all point me to a good value tool? I don't mind spending the right amount of money on one, just not sure where to start here.

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I'm curious about this to. I'm working on my first projects, but I'm avoiding stitching for now. I plan on making a pouch next and will stitch that...so I need to start learning.

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I personally have a cheaper stitch groover that's unmarked, mostly likely from Tandy. It works perfectly for what it needs to be. Remember that a stitch channel is going to be covered up for the most part, so having a picture perfect channel is not necessary.

However, they will not do special curves very well so I invested in cheap Ebay stitch groovers like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Leathercraft-Tool-Kit-Stitching-U-V-Shaped-Groover-Skiving-Edge-Beveler-/321704649257?hash=item4ae7176229:g:EpgAAOSw4SlV8PBu

The combination of the two I am able to make a perfect channel and for under 20$. There are plenty of other tools that would benefit from spending the extra money. Hope I helped at all!

Edited by Kd Custom

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I have no idea who bad mouthed the stitch groover from Tandy, . . . but I'd bet it was either someone who did not know how to use one, . . . or someone wanting you to buy his fancy one, . . . or one like his fancy one.

I am in the holster, belt, knife sheath, purse, and wallet (reluctantly only) business as a hobby. My Tandy groover has been in service since somewhere near 10 years, . . . still working fine, . . . used it today.

My belts alone are almost never shorter than 35 inches, . . . add 9 inches to the blank to start, . . . doing both sides, . . . both edges, . . . which works out at 176 inches per belt, . . . and that is the short one. I get belts for them guys that wear 53 inch britches, . . .

You want to spend more than their $15, . . . have at it, . . . I surely would not.

May God bless,

Dwight

May God bless,

Dwight

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My Tandy groover is excellent. When going around curves it just takes a steady hand and remember to go slowly. Use light pressure, you can always make multiple passes. Also, if a stitch groove is all you want, it can also be accomplished with a straight edge and bone folder or creaser. Anything that creates a depression or channel for the thread will help it "sit down". I prefer to cut the channel, but it isn't 100% necessary. There are also straight groovers that you run along a straight edge. For curves, run along a metal washer or something with a radius that matches your project.

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ok, I appreciate everyones comments. I suspected that the Tandy would be ok, I just didn't want to start out with something that had a known proven bad track record. I'm going to get the Tandy model.

I'm looking forward to participating in this forum and learning from you all.

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The tandy one that looks like a wood plane is garbage. You need to modify it and shim it to get good results. The wood handled ones are better. The craftool pro groover is the one I would buy if I bought it from tandy. The grooving blade is on the end of the tool, not hanging off the side. I found the blade on the side of the cheaper ones a little weird feeling when most every tool has the bit centered with the handle. It was also harder to control depth. The Craftool pro can be used without the guide for off edge stitch lines, or "Inland highways" .

Copies(or the exact same items) are available cheaper on ebay and a few other places online for all the groovers tandy sells.

If you have a few more bucks to spend, The osborne 34 scratch compass with the groover tips is the way to go. It comes with 3 groove sizes and a point. It is usable as a divider and a pencil compass as well. You can also put a stitch line further away from the edge with it. It is a really versatile shop tool. I have a quarter with a small divot in the center i put on the top of the leather with a magnet underneath and can draw curves right on the hide.....

You can put a pencil in it for pattern making and drawing. It is also great for woodwork/metalwork layout duty as well. Its not cheap but is worth it.

I have an antique set of starrett 92 dividers from 1910 or so and they are built exactly the same as the 34, with a minor difference in the adjuster. This is a tool to last unlike a new craftool is.

Edited by TinkerTailor

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Posted this in the other thread, so i will repost here.

The tandy one that looks like a wood plane is garbage. You need to modify it and shim it to get good results. The wood handled ones are better. The craftool pro groover is the one I would buy if I bought it from tandy. The grooving blade is on the end of the tool, not hanging off the side. I found the blade on the side of the cheaper ones a little weird feeling when most every tool has the bit centered with the handle. It was also harder to control depth. The Craftool pro can be used without the guide for off edge stitch lines, or "Inland highways" .

Copies(or the exact same items) are available cheaper on ebay and a few other places online for all the groovers tandy sells.

If you have a few more bucks to spend, The osborne 34 scratch compass with the groover tips is the way to go. It comes with 3 groove sizes and a point. It is usable as a divider and a pencil compass as well. You can also put a stitch line further away from the edge with it. It is a really versatile shop tool. I have a quarter with a small divot in the center i put on the top of the leather with a magnet underneath and can draw curves right on the hide.....

You can put a pencil in it for pattern making and drawing. It is also great for woodwork/metalwork layout duty as well. Its not cheap but is worth it.

I have an antique set of starrett 92 dividers from 1910 or so and they are built exactly the same as the 34, with a minor difference in the adjuster. This is a tool to last unlike a new craftool is.

One place to get it:

http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Scratch-Compass_p_876.html

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That quarter and magnet idea is brilliant, TT. I'm gonna have to try that!

I also second your thoughts on the Tandy groover. I bought one of those after trying the other type that came as part of a kit and found it awkward. It is much more intuitive to have the cutting edge in line with the tool handle. Needless to say, whatever type you use has to be very sharp, which takes some work.

Bill

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I use this a lot. I use the creaser and not the ditch maker. The creaser does not create a contrasting line on dyed leather and the creaser will lay down a smooth line that will swallow up the thread from my Cobra 4. Besides, you get all that other stuff.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Set-5-in1-Pro-Adjustable-Leathercraft-Stitching-and-Groover-Crease-Leather-Tool-/361308274997

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I use he Tandy Pro groover with the blade in the center and guide that hangs out on the side. When I thought it was too dull, I sharpened mine a little with an extra fine stone, then stropped it to polish the edge. There's a video on YouTube that shows how to set up a strop for groovers.

It is really easy to use, but I always screw up at least one small spot on a curve and let the groove get a little too close to the edge. Whenever you change direction, you have to slow down and keep that guide on the edge of the leather.

Taking the guide off and using it freehand works well for stitch lines on the holsters I've made.

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The badmouthing of the Tandy grovers relates to the blades that were coming in them. The trouble was with the cutting edge, not the grover itself. Not sure if they have sold all the bad ones yet and got another batch or not.

That being said, I do quite a bit of sewing and I never grove. The strongest part of the leather is the outer part, I have never understood why people feel that cutting off the strongest part will make their sewing stronger.

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Aesthetics, setting a stitch line down in a groove just looks "tidy."

P1030013_zpsae12e9bf.jpg

That being said, there's not a single stitch groove anywhere on my own personal belt and holster.

SAM_0286_zpshbgtb2os.jpg

Sometimes I'll groove, sometimes I won't, depends on the look I want.

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