Secret Message Cuffs

[MirandaDee]

Hello All,

I'm really enjoying my first leather working project, though I have already learned a few things!

• Don't have long fingernails

• Measure out the entire design INCLUDING hardware

• Check and double check spelling and dates

These are a pair of cuffs with a message on the inside. I'm almost done, just need to finish up the edges some how (without an edger or gum - I know it's a bit of a pickle.)

Here's a link to my gallery and a couple specific pics.

[dirtclod]

Wet a sponge and get the edges damp and rub them hard and fast with a piece of a cereal / cracker box or something like that. It will smooth and polish the edges up. But you really need to use a edger first to do it right.

[stomperz]

As far as the edges go, I have learned (from someone on this site) that water and the side of a sharpy marker works great. It worked for me at any rate, also if you have an antler hanging on the wall or in the garage, that works well too.

Thanks, Bill

Edited May 2, 2012 by stomperz

[Birdman]

Having the right tools for the job is definitly best, but you can 'make and do' in this case. It will take care and more effort than using an edge shave, before you do it, try this first on a piece of scrap leather from the making your cuff..

You may also learn a few things along the way!

Use some fine sandpaper on a block ( at an angle) to gently sand the edges that you want bevelled. Notice if the surface is left smooth in one direction but rough in the opposite? Use an even pressure and continual action to keep the sanding as even as possible. You can always cut a new edge on the practise piece until you think you think you are getting it right .

Then try it on your cuff . Go slow!

As for staining the edge you could try making up some dye for yourself. It is not as good as purpose made leather dye, but it is useable, especialy if the budget is limited.

Buy/obtain some walpaper size or walpaper ( powder) glue and some 'add to water' based fabric dye from a haberdashers (or even some general stores). Make a dauber or find a small artists paint brush to apply.

Read and comply with the safety precautions on the box!

Using a small jam jar put a small amount of the dye in the jar and add and mix the water slowly. Add more water if it is to thick. Aim to have about a 1/3 cup in the jar, then you have room for adjustments!

Remember you are using a small amount of concentrate, the total of which would have made a bucket of dye to use with clothes!

Then try the dye on a bit of scrap, if it is to thin add and mix a little more dye until your test piece is looking right. Then ( on the basis of the rough quantities above) add and mix about 1/8 to 1/4 of a teasoon of the walpaper size/glue. ie about a couple of pinches. Mix thoroughly (lid on jar and shake?) and try the dye on the test piece. Its OK to go over your earlier tests, or use fresh. Note that in one direction the dauber/brush may leave a rough surface and in the other a smooth. Apply with care to avoid run off over the part of the pece you do not want stained. Angling the work helps, as does not having a brush/dauber so loaded it drips!

Now the important bit to get that shine. Try this out on your test piece if you wish.

You need to get busy while the dye is still damp. I use a piece of well worn denim and if possible pull the work through denim using pressure from palm and fingers to put pressure on the stained edge. This makes it quite warm through friction. This action will shine the edge, Note (and adjust)any edge differences that happen when you change dirrection.

If the piece is to small, place it edge up on your bench and use the denim and a finger again getting that friction warmth.

If you are using dark dyes, the denim can be used for years and actualy improves with use as some of the dye becomes part of the denim. You could experiment with other cloths? If using lighter colours, you will need to bear in mind stain transfer to your new work and colour.

Then ( if using dark colours) fold a sheet of newspaper over several times to make a useable sized piece. Pull the work though the gripped newspaper as before. Again it must be fast and firm enough to make the edge warm up through friction.

Strangely, the cheap gutter press newspaers work better than the highbrow press! I think it is the cheaper paper and inks that they use.

If you are using lighter colours, try a folded piece of A4 typing paper or sugar paper of a near match colour.

One last tip... do all the leather cutting, shaping, edging, creasing dyeing and polishing etc before you fit the hardware. It's easier. You can always do some careful retouching and polishing of the edges to finish off.

Experiment safely and have fun!

Edited May 2, 2012 by Birdman