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How Do You Figure The Lasting Allowance On A Pair Of Mocs?

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I am starting work on a pair of mocs. I am making a pair of canoe mocs, like the ones that Mark Wintle makes (Wassookeag) or Quoddy, etc.

I have the materials, and a pair of lasts.

Making a patttern of the last, I have figured out. But with the thickness of the triple sole, etc., I need to figure out a lasting allowance. Or I will never get these things sewn up.

Anyone have any advice?

Roger

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Well, I went forward with original pattern and it just wouldn't last. So, I did some measuring, and then made a few adjustments to the patterns. And then made a "model" moc with some thick felt, and it all seemed to line up. So now I have made a new vamp/midsole/outsole and finished stitching it together this morning. I will need to put in the lining, and skive it some. Then finish the heel assembly THEN I can try to last it and see if my mods worked.

I am using some pretty heavy cowhide. I'm sure it will loosen up with wear, but it's pretty stiff for this part of the project.

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I like these... Are the stitches along the toe and along the sole a saddle stitch? Wish I could find a good video on how to make a pair like this. I think this style looks cleaner than the bunched up method or the stitch that goes around the seam

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I re-soled a pair that fit perfectly a while back... used saddle-stitch and had to tear it out and re-stitch using a whip-stitch. If you have exact sizing saddle-stitching doesn't allow stretch around the sole. If you have a slightly larger sizing allowance you're probably okay.

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