Kevinjohnson

Solid Machine....I've had one for about a year and a half and have not had any problems. Vernon Weaver gives great service and can trouble shoot almost anything over the phone. Would not worry about the machine being made in the Czech Republic. I had a 12" Adler before this one that was a German machine and can't say I could see much difference in the machining.

I agree w/ Steve and Darc that there is nothing like the stitch that a needle and awl machine makes. I used an Adler 205-370 for nearly 10 yrs. before buying a Campbell. While the Adler is more versitile, for saddle work, a Campbell/Randall or Landis 3 or 16 is the way to go. Most people never realize how much better a needle and awl stitch looks until you've compared the two side by side. An awl machine can make 346 thread look like 277 just because it makes such a tight, neat stitch. Don't get me wrong, I'll never get rid of my Adler but I'll never be without a needle and awl machine for saddle work. If a person is patient, good, used awl machines can be found for close to the price of a better knock-off. I know of where there is a nice Landis 3 for $3500 and a Randall for a little more. I would be more than happy to pass on the contact info.

latigo for the billets.....split down latigo for the flank cinch (7oz.+or-)..........4oz. veg. tan strap for fenders, jockeys, ect.

I have had the 16" Adler for about a year and half now. Very good machine. After having the longer arm, it would be hard to go back to the 11.5". My machine is one that was stretched at the factory. They add 4" on the top and bottom to get the extra length. You can't really tell that it's been added on to until you look underneath. Not sure if the factory is still doing that or if they finally had casting molds made. I had one of the knock-offs for a short while and it did not compare to this machine. Even though I love the versatility of the Adler, I almost always end up at the Campbell when stitch appearance is the most important aspect.

Any idea what steel the old Gomphs, Rose or Osborne round knifes were made of. Someone had told me that they thought that they were made out of D1. Is there or was there that type of steel and why isn't it available now?

Herman Oak........Can be hard to work, depending on the wieght, but it pays off in longevity.

Walsall is the one that imports these. #10 Beveled heelbar buckle.....Google Walsall Hardware.

Howard Council is, without a doubt, the grandfather of the modern roping saddle. He is to the calf roping saddle what Henry Ford is to the automobile. What Micheal Jordan is to basketball. What Wyoming Slim is to craftools (just kidding). Most of the modern day look of a roping saddle can be traced back to Howard. Deep tooling, cut-outs under latigos and billets, glued down housings and jockeys w/ plugs and fillers in places most people have never thought of putting plugs....all of which Howard combined to create the functional, modern look. If you are a World Champion calf roper or tripper, odds are that you have rode or owned a Council. I recall Howard saying that one or more years at the NFR, the majority of the top 15 calf ropers were riding one of his saddles. His saddles are made to fit a horse, first and foremost, and then made to encourage a rodeo winning run. This being said, you probably are not going to want to ride this type of saddle all day long. The same reason you are not going to try and make an 8 second tripping run in a cutting saddle. Many have tried to copy Howard and very few have ever accomplished this.

Depending on how dull the tool is, start with small abrasive cord pulled through the hole in the bit until you bring back a slight burr. Feed the cord from the back to the front. Then buff or strap the outside of the cutting edge. Finish with loading a peice of sewing machine thread with white, green or red rouge and pull that out of the hole in the bit back to front. Use the largest size thread that you can get threaded through the hole.

I have one I'll sell you Pete; 2 3/8" from bottom of yoke to end of barrel, 3/8" diameter, 3/8" straight blade. Barely used. $100 +shipping..... for $110 I'll even through in a barely used 3/8" ceramic straight blade (not sure if it fits in the knife?) Contact me before Troy does and even if you do, I still might sell it to Troy!

I actually do have a few old craftools that aren't bad (pre chromed). They are also not that good, average. Not as good as old McMillans, Hackbarth, ect. Craptools do have their place. Almost everyone in the leather trade, at one time or anouther, probably started w/ a pile of these tools due to the availability, price and lack of knowledge. As a persons skills progress, however, so do the quality of there tools. Quality of tools most often corrilates w/ quality of work. Not all the time, but most. When Harbor Freight becomes the official tool of NASA, I'll throw out my vintage/handmade, top shelf tools and buy a gift certificate to Tandy's. As for the new craptools..... make an impression of a new craptool and put it next to a similar impression of a Don King or a Bob Beard or a Woodruff or a Lonnie Height and ask your customer which one looks better. Ever noticed the number of craptools that people acumulate. These are the same people that say that they can't afford a $55 handmade tool after they have spent hundreds of dollars on useless pig metal. If I remember right, Ann and Al did use a lot of Craftools. Their books were also promoted by Tandys. Given the quality of their work and the tool choices of today, do you think the modern day Ann and Al would load up on chromed sticks of pot iron? Really!?

I bent an early Barry King veiner and pearshader. At that time, Barry was making the shank of the tool round instead of elongated where the impression tied into the shank. I do follow the Council mold of deep tooling but actually bent the tools stamping a pair of spur straps. The tools were brand new and bent immediately. Barry replaced them w/ no questions and I noticed latter that many of his tools were left beefier through the transition. Have bent some craptools by useing them for pry-bars, screw drivers, awls, nail sets, ect. Craptools actually work good for everything but their intended purpose.

Thank you Ed for making my XMas maul. The workmanship is outstanding! Eventhough I am used to using Bob Beard's mauls, I appreciate the different feel that these have (more rebound). If you ever get a chance to make a heavier version, write me down.

Heather and Kirk at Texas Custom Dies are very good to work w\, reasonably priced and have a fast turn-around. For those thinking about ordering dies that have never before, make sure you send an EXACT pattern of what you want made. I know from experience, if your pattern's a little off, your die will be a little off. Triple check.

Hey Bruce, The extra strap is for packing a second rope during an average roping. The second rope is tied w/ a barrier string to an eye screw or steple to the front right of the swells and then the already built loop is tucked under the strap out of the way. If a person misses w/ their first loop, they just grab their second, break the string and their ready to rope. Often during the NFR, you'll see guys that can tie a calf in 12 or 13 seconds w/ two loops. Did ya ever get your tack collar built?