Using A Press Versus Hand Molding/boning.

[buzzkiller]

Since I started working with leather I have started noticing details in holsters than I have in the past. From time to time I will find custom holsters with molding work that simply looks "too good" to be hand molded.

Is it fairly common among custom holster builders to use a press or some other device for molding? If so is it done at the same stage of the build and what device is used.

Personally, hand molding is my favorite part of the process but I would like to have an idea of others methods and preferences.

Thanks,

Dan

[TwinOaks]

A lot of molding is done on a press, using 40 durometer rubber pads. They're soft enough to allow good forming around a gun, but firm enough to pick up most of the lines. They're an excellent idea if you're turning out a LOT of holsters, or just happen to like the look. I market my holsters and sheaths as "Custom", so having all the little details that mark something as "hand made" is more important than being able to rapidly press-form a holster.

[Shooter McGavin]

I've seens holsters that were pressed and thats all. Not a good look in my opinion. If I had a press I would utilize it to pick up the rough details and then crisp up the edges by hand, I'm not sure how companies like Galco get their lines, I'm thinking they vacuum form them.

[katsass]

Since I started working with leather I have started noticing details in holsters than I have in the past. From time to time I will find custom holsters with molding work that simply looks "too good" to be hand molded.

Is it fairly common among custom holster builders to use a press or some other device for molding? If so is it done at the same stage of the build and what device is used.

Personally, hand molding is my favorite part of the process but I would like to have an idea of others methods and preferences.

Thanks,

Dan

From the old grump; On the other side of the fence --- boning and molding be two different things IMO. I hand mold all my holsters WITHOUT that excellent boning that (IMO) Shooter, Twin Oaks and Lobo do properly, and so many do excessively. My stuff is made differently (some say overly made) and in a way that actually precludes any boning at all. My holsters do, however, give a nice little 'snap' or 'thuck' sound when the gun is seated therein. A hand-molded 'Avenger' style done a while ago. Mike

[TwinOaks]

_{(the other)} Mike speaks about the exact reason holsters are molded in the first place - that 'snap' or 'thunk'. Molding a holster can look good, but it's more important that the holster properly holds the weapon. This means that the holster keeps the weapon in the same place..period. There's no shifting around, no settling, no twisting...and it's not loose or apt to fall out. People that choose to (or have to) carry a weapon, most likely train with it. Having the pistol in exactly the same place every time leads to repeatability when practicing draws, re-holstering, etc.

To accomplish the goal of "same place, all the time", I mold my holsters (like Katsass) by hand with the sole intents of proper retention, support, and presentation. A few years ago, some top notch holster makers took the time to get me straightened out on the design principles (big thank you to K-man, and BOOMstick). All the pretty lines on the outside of the holster do absolutely nothing for the important properties. Proper molding eliminates excess space (or 'wiggle room') in critical areas, and increases the surface area of the leather that is in contact with the weapon. The more leather you have against the leather, the more stable and secure the weapon is. This does NOT mean that it will be difficult to draw, because when properly done, a leather holster will lock in or release just as well as wonder plastic (kydex)....without the finish marring results of hard plastic on steel. It DOES mean that if you do it correctly, then there will be only one direction that the weapon will clear the holster...as opposed to the nylon/neoprene 'socks' with a clip on it. With those, you can pull the weapon free from any angle.

However, molding is not the only way to get a good fitting holster. Though it takes a bit more layout, you can build the holster to exactly fit the dimensions of the weapon...right from the start. Take a look at the holster tutorial by Jim Simmons and you'll see how to measure and build to the specific dimensions. His tutorial is for a revolver, but the principles are the same.

Once those aspects are covered, THEN I worry about the aesthetics.

ETA: It is possible to OVER mold a holster, and defeat the purpose of the molding. mlapaglia made a holster and boned it nearly tight enough to read the serial numbers () which caused the weapon to be 'locked' into the holster. The over molding was at the 'tactical rail' under the muzzle, and by molding so closely to the shape of it, he got little bits of leather pressed between the slots on the rail. As it dried, it acted like the teeth on gears, preventing removal.

[K-Man]

[A few years ago, some top notch holster makers took the time to get me straightened out on the design principles (big thank you to K-man, and BOOMstick).

Glad I could help.