Snaps on inside of holster/pouch

[Shorts]

I'm working on some mag pouches. I'm going with the snap on belt loop for the attachment. And the only way to put the snap on is to have that post eyelet on the inside of the leather. Is that correct? Does anyone line pouches where they use a snap? I'm concerned about the metal piece scratching or scuffing up, in this case, a magazine. I don't want to line anything.

I don't think it would damage the mag structurally, but it would maybe be unsightly.

Am I overthinking this?

[TwinOaks]

No, you're not overthinking it. I've run into the same thing, but I opted to line it with glazed pigskin split. It's really thin and doesn't seem to impair the mag draw. Another option is to double the back of the magpouch, stitching one to the other to conceal the rivet's base, which is cleverly hidden between them. Use lighter weight leather if you're worried about bulk. More work, but better looking usually is. Of course, lining it is easier....oh, wait...nevermind. If you make the pouch first, then realize you do want a liner, well, a paint stir stick is just about the right width for a 1911 mag pouch to get it smooth.

[Shorts]

Well I got a double mag pouch prototype built. I'm using just scrap 7/8oz I have around here. From what I can tell on this unlined pouch, my blue mags aren't getting scratched (yet?). Before I inserted the mag into the wet leather, I put in the mock belt in the back belt loop tunnel. The indention from the mock belt on the inside of the pouch acts as a plateau right over the slight rim of the post eyelet. That looks promising. At the very least, its pretty unobtrusive.

I'll reserve total judgement until this dries and I can test this thing out on my belt.

I've been thinking of getting some real thin liners but, not sure if it'll be harder to stitch by hand.

[Jordan]

The tandy cell phone kits come with self stick round dots of felt that may work. May last quite awhile as a mag pouch would not be subject to alot of wear unless alot of shooting was being done. I add a bit of glue to the dot and so far none have come off.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

In my opinion, take every precaution to protect a gun's finish, but consider what the magazine is for when you decide to build your mag holders. A 1911 mag is rubbed against metal every time it is inserted into the gun. There is no need to baby them, especially if you use a brass eyelet, which is softer than the steel of a magazine. The only time you might consider another method of attachment is if you are really worried about mags that have a nickle or chrome finish, or polymer mags. You can protect them if you want to, but in the end the magazine is still going to be ejected onto the bare ground, kicked and stepped on, or worse. While good mags are extremely important to the proper function of a pistol, they are also disposable and should be treated as such. Those who won't treat them that way are seriously inhibiting their training and probably handicapping their performance.

If you still feel strongly that you don't want any metal in contact with your mags, be sure to space the top of the belt loop to match the off-set at the bottom, or you will wind up with a mag holder that leans out and "prints".

[DCKNIVES]

Another way to cover the snap, if not lining is to punch your hole. Then dig out your skiver and skive a flap from the bottom keeping the top of the flap intact.This can also be done with a knife.install your snap and glue the flap back down over it and clean excess glue off.You don't need a big flap either just thin enough to cover the snap.Since I line most things or do inlays I don't run into this much anymore but it works.Dave

Edited August 11, 2008 by DCKNIVES

[Shorts]

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I was wondering if it was a concern I should address or not. Frankly, makes it much easier for it to be something that doesn't need "fixin". I mean, I just don't know if it's something customers would care about. "Oh yeah, she makes some decent stuff but that part of the pouch tears up my ___ so I don't order from her" sort of thing. I don't want to unintentionally turn off customers for a problem I have no clue I need to adjust

[DCKNIVES]

Well it is always a concern to me, because details like this are what should be expected in a professionally done project.It shouldn't matter if its just a mag holder.It's all in the details my friend.Dave

[Shorts]

Here's this first run - Rough Cuts

The rear attachment is just a foldover flap to a snap. The screw stud there is only temporarily acting as the socket screw & washer (out of those for the moment).

As the name implies, these are real rough cut - got the basic construction and halfhearted quality. This was just to put it on paper so to speak, the edges aren't even straight. For a final run, the relief notches at the bottom corners will be full blown pieces cut out instead of a 10mm hole punched. That ought to take away a little corner bulk and allow the edges to sit a bit flatter for stitching. I'll also extend the stitches out slightly, getting those mags in there for initial molding was pretty tough. I'm not molding these thing past what they are. It's very difficult on this amount of leather without a hydraulic press. Plus this gives a little flexibility on a loaded mag.

Any words of critique as far as structure goes? Yes, I realize things need to be straight, presentable and well finished otherwise lol

Edited August 12, 2008 by Shorts

[Jordan]

I would make them a bit taller to cover more of the magazine, a bit wider to run a stitch down the center of the double and use a food saver vacuum bag to form the leather. With a little refinement they will look terrific. With a little more space at the bottom you could put a stitch line and sandwich the snaps between the leather curing the other problem you mentioned about exposed metal inside scratching the magazines. But then you would probably need to use 2 pieces of leather rather than a fold over. Food for thought?

[TwinOaks]

Seeing how you've constructed those, I have to wonder if you should be using 'pull the dot' snaps in place of line 24s. (presuming, of course, that you used L 24s on the mock up) Dependent on the snugness of the pouch, you might end snatching the whole thing off your belt in a real world scenario.

[Shorts]

Thanks Jordan. I have tossed around the idea of using a stitch in the center instead. The main reason for using a tension screw is it's pretty easy and keeps the stitching to a bare minimum.

Mike good eye. The cap is from a line 24 snap. The hardware underneath are the hard action DOTs. Someone forgot to order to the caps when she ordered everything else

I'm also thinking of opening up the back flap in the center to form 2 flaps or at least cut a nice window between them. I think it would look better. But I do like the stability that one solid piece provides.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I would go ahead and add the slot between the two snaps, for the sake of belt placement. Some folks like to postition their mag holders over their belt loops so they don't go anywhere.

[Shorts]

I would go ahead and add the slot between the two snaps, for the sake of belt placement. Some folks like to postition their mag holders over their belt loops so they don't go anywhere.

Good call Jeff. My husband also mentioned the same thing unsolicited. And when I was trying it on, the position I wanted it to sit was immediately centered on a belt loop of my jeans. So, three confirms on the slot right off the bat