Choosing Maul Weight

[Phatdaddy]

I will more than likely be purchasing a maul from Beary in the very near future. There is only one concern, I have never used anything but the cheapies from Tandy (the ones with the yellow poly head) I do find them a little on the light side.

I'll likely only be able to pick up one weight for now, but i'm unsure how to best decide on the weight. I only have Tandy as a resource and don't know of anyone else in my province that I could test out their mauls etc.

Any suggestions?

Thank you,

Kevin

[KAYAK45]

Hi Kevin, Kevin here!

Great choice in maker, by the way. I bought beary's first maul and just received my second.

I went with a Bearman recommendation of 18 Oz on my first maul, as the over all general best weight. Later, and got it about a week ago, I ordered a 24 Oz.

Both are great mauls and I wouldn't change a thing on them.

The 18 is best for fine tooling, no doubt, the 24 a little heavy for that. But the 24 is nice to have for some larger...say basketweave that I want one hit, no shadow.

Hope this helps your decision on size. Anything you get will be WAAAYYY better than the polymer from Tandy!!!

Good Hunting,

Kevin

[King's X]

I use a 14oz from Bearman maul for light leather tooling and an 18oz maul for general tooling. For my baskets and geometrics, I use a 24oz Stohlman maul. For heavier tooling and makers mark, I use a Stohlman 3lb.

I would definitely recommend an 18oz as a starter. With either Beary or papa bear.....you cannot go wrong.

[Spinner]

I agree on the 18oz. I have the Stohlman 1lb. maul and like it but within a few months it started to feel light on projects with basketweave and other stamps needing a good "whack". That size is great for medium to fine tooling but the extra weight would be nice to have around.

I'll be asking Beary for a 24 oz. here soon myself.

[gtwister09]

Kevin,

Here's some threads that have already discussed weights and such.

Thread #1

Thread #2

Hope these give you some more information.

Regards,

Ben

[Phatdaddy]

Thank you all. Appreciate the guidance.

Kevin

[Phatdaddy]

Is there a technical reason for a straight cylindrical or tapered head?

Thanks again,

Kevin

[bruce johnson]

Is there a technical reason for a straight cylindrical or tapered head?

Thanks again,

Kevin

You don't have to lift you arm or shoulder as high to hit the stamp level.

[MHolzer]

I love my bearman mauls. Mine are 10oz and 17oz in bloodwood.

[Phatdaddy]

You don't have to lift you arm or shoulder as high to hit the stamp level.

And that's with the tapered one I assume? Makes sense. Thank you

[bruce johnson]

Yes, with the tapered. It makes a big difference for me using anything over a 16 oz maul. Some of what I do are big pieces and I can't always reach the center if I rest my elbow and rock the maul. On my bigger baskets and block stamps I am faster and less fatigue to use heavier mauls and do one hit on the baskets or two hits on the blocks rocking the stamp one way and then the other. I can keep my elbow locked to my side and use my whole forearm with my wrist straight.