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WillGhormley

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About WillGhormley

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/01/1958

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.willghormley-maker.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Des Moines, Iowa
  • Interests
    Mountain Bikin', Hikin', Campin', Snowshowin', Muzzleloadin' Huntin', Canoein', Studyin' History, Writin', Serving God in everything I attempt.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    1800s Cowboy Gear
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    I was invited

Recent Profile Visitors

5,953 profile views
  1. You guys are funny! Yeah, the EPA is trying to get rid of anything that works good or makes money. Here in Ioway country, the EPA was trying to outlaw farming because it caused too much dust. You think I'm kiddin' don't you, but that's essentially what their mandates would have done. They also tried to outlaw feed-lots because of "Bovine Flatulence". They say that cow-farts release too much methane and worsen their imaginary global warming. The EPA has already run most tanneries out of the country. Who knows what will be next, saddle makers? When it comes right down to color penetration, nuthin' beats Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye, nuthin'! However, when it comes to bleedin' of on clothes when wet, nuthin' beats Fiebing's Black Professional Oil Dye. For that reason, I'm goin' to start usin' the Waterstain products on my modern carry gear. And, Go2Tex, I can't agree with you more about how coloration sucks the beauty out of carved leather. But, the customer is always right. I did another test with the Waterstain using the Waterstain Finish and Cream Conditioner. Those two extra applications really armored-up the abrasion resistance. But, again, like Go2Tex said, try to avoid gettin' drug across cement. You can see the results of the last test at the same webpage. http://www.willghormley-maker.com/OldDogsAndNewTricks.html Hope this helps, Will
  2. OK, I tried another test with the Waterstain, applying it to dampened leather to see if I could get better color penetration and abrasion resistance. The answer is "Yes!". To see the results of that test, visit the same webpage as before: http://www.willghormley-maker.com/OldDogsAndNewTricks.html However, this test got me to thinkin' there are better results to be had with the Waterstain. So, I guess I'm goin' to have to do at least one more test. Will
  3. Hey Luke, The vast, vast majority of the work I've done has been reproduction old west gear. My edge treatments have been pretty much limited to organic bee's wax and Gum Tragacanth. Neither one really cover the actual leather, just burnish it down. I have used Fiebing's, but I didn't like the look on my old west gear, so my experience is limited. However, I liked the way the Waterstain edger went on. But, I don't have a whole lot of experience with that either. Not much help I'm afraid. Will
  4. I got to wunderin' if the Waterstain wouldn't penetrate deeper into the leather if the leather was damp when the Waterstain was applied. I'll have to do some tests on that. Will
  5. Wow Spinner! Nice. Been a long time since I did custom leather on a bike. I had forgotten how nice it looked! Hey Electrathon, No, I hadn't done any abrasion tests. I was too focused on the color fastness of the project. However, I do remember Byron telling me I needed to put on multiple layers of the conditioner in thin coats to protect the finish. I think you are probably right about the relative nature of the surface application. Easy, fast, colorfast, not so deep. Makes sense. But, Spinner seems to be on to something with the oil dye undercoat. You get the best of both worlds with that application. Genius! I'll have to try that on another project. However, one of the things I do is the distressed look. I can see some real applications for some cool effects. I'll have to play around with it a bit more...past the color-fastness issue. Maybe a saddle tan undercoat with Black Waterstain overcoat for that "Hollywood" distressed look. We'll see... Excellent point! Will
  6. I'm a stickler for the "Old School" and I mean real old. So, it was difficult for me to try anything new. However, I finally had a project that I could use the Eco Flo Professional Waterstain on, (a modern paddle holster). I was particularly interested in the Eco Flo because I had heard it was pretty water-fast. When you are carrying things so close to your person, (shirts especially), you hate to have dye bleeding off on the clothes when wet or sweaty. So, I tried the Eco Flo Waterstain and was very impressed. I took photos and made a webpage for how I used it. If you are interested in my experience with it, visit the link: http://www.willghormley-maker.com/OldDogsAndNewTricks.html Hope this helps, Will
  7. Hey Guys, I'm sure my dad, Mr. Ghormley would be proud. I'm proud of you too Boothill, you've done a great job. And, I made the patterns available so folks could make and sell their own reproductions of the movie rig. There are some very specific hidden things I did on the movie rigs, so no one can ever pass off a cleaver copy as one from the movie. I don't know that there would ever be any legal problems with "Hand of God", or "3:10 to Yuma", unless you were trying to pass off fakes. But even then, who is goin' to sue a poverty stricken leather crafter? There's no money in that! I wouldn't worry about legalities. Will
  8. Hey Folks, Just got my Johnny Ringo Rig "How-To" page up and runnin'. I'll be addin' the Johnny Ringo spur leathers to it soon. But for now, it's runnin'. http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingRingoRig.html Will
  9. Ouch! That must have been harsh dmr400! To go from the point of the sword to a Bat Shop. You probably had to eat a bunch of words you had uttered about REMFs. But, I'll bet you have more appreciation for 'em now. What were you doin' at the the S1 Shop? It all greases the wheels of the big machine. And, like most of us, you did what you had to do for your ideals and your mates. Good to have you home! Will
  10. will you do some awesome work i love the way you make the holsters look distressed im gonna try it on my vaquero holsters and see what happens

  11. dmr400, Thanks for your kind words, but your service to our country is what is inspiring! I spent 12 years in the Infantry serving my country. While I don't agree with what the government is doin' any more, I still back our soldiers, sailors and airmen, 100%. And, as a grandfather, I will still gladly sacrifice myself, my children, and my grandchildren to defend our nation's Constitution against all enemies, foreign and domestic. On a more cheery note, the HOG Rig pattern will be goin' to the blueprint shop Friday. It should be in the mail next week for all who pre-ordered the pattern. Will
  12. Yeah, the Ranger Belt has a lot to offer in style. It's probably my favorite all-'round belt. Oh, on the holster measurements, those are for traditional holsters without any welts or whatnot. Will
  13. For what it's worth... I make all my patterns to fit the specific pistol. I use a series of minimum measurements to make sure the gun fits in a holster constructed of 9-10 oz. leather. You can make it larger without any problem, but it starts gettin' tight if you go much smaller than these standard measurements. Now, I like a holster that fits a gun tight enough it's still in the holster when you need it. I don't mind yankin' that baby out, I just hate checkin' my back-trail looking for iron. For instance, for a Colt 1873, (or clone thereof), I lay the pistol down on the folded paper just as mentioned before and trace it. Then, I add 5/8" around the trigger guard, 1" around the frame and ejector housing, and even down the barrel, (though you can start to fudge a little on the barrel, don't get under 3/4"). If the holster is goin to get a toe-plug, I allow 1/4" at the end. If it is goin' to be a sewn, round toe, I allow 3/4" at the lowest portion of the curve. If I'm addin' a lining, I generally ad 1/4" to every measurement, except for a toe-plug. The lining doesn't add enough thickness to change that measurement. With those basic measurements as my, "not tighter than this" guide, I give the holster the contours I want to see after that. Works every time for me. Will
  14. OK, I've posted the last photo on the "Hand of God" "How-To" series. It is a detailed photo of the finished rig. http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html There ya' go! Will
  15. Hey Guys, Glad you're enjoyin' the "Hand of God" "How-To". I just finished the third page, dealin' mainly with braidin' the hammer tie-down. Since hammer tie-downs weren't typical to 1800 gunleather, I had to design it so it would hide away during close-ups. So, I braided the string for it so it would be flexible and have some give to it. I attached it on the back-side of the holster so it could be tucked between the holster and the belt for those close-ups. I think I did see it stickin' out in one of the close-ups, but, for the most part, the kept it invisible. http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html Will
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