Cowboy 4500

[SkullCanyon]

Well last Monday I picked up a Cowboy 4500 in north Texas that was as new for a good price.

Put it through its paces and it sews flawlessly, nice machine Bob Kovar. Thanks.

Then on Wednesday I got a call on my Pearson #6 that had been on the market

for quite a while. Sold it to a very happy saddle maker here in AZ.

Great week for machinery, happy days.

Now back to work.

Kenny

[Colt W Knight]

If that is the same machine I saw for sale in Texas, I was hoping it would go unsold until I got a chance to get over to Texas in a few weeks.

Congrats. Looks like I have to buy a new one.

[Wizcrafts]

If we lived closer to each other I'd sell you my CB4500 so I can buy a CB5500 (25" arm). I had to sew a double leather 3" wide belt and avoid the Dee-rings. It required some acrobatics to fold the long end up or down to sew across where it needed to be done.

[Darren Brosowski]

You sold a Pearson 6? Bad boy.

Rule No 1 "thou shalt never sell a working sewing machine"

[Hockeymender]

You sold a Pearson 6? Bad boy.

Rule No 1 "thou shalt never sell a working sewing machine"

I will always sell a working sewing machine.......that I no longer have a need for.

[buffalorain]

If we lived closer to each other I'd sell you my CB4500 so I can buy a CB5500 (25" arm). I had to sew a double leather 3" wide belt and avoid the Dee-rings. It required some acrobatics to fold the long end up or down to sew across where it needed to be done.

I live in Texas near Ft Worth. Still got the 4500 for sale? I'm in the market for a good used one.

[Wizcrafts]

The 4500 wasn't actually posted for sale anywhere. It is used almost every weekday in our shop. I was speaking hypothetically, if we lived closer to each other (rather than half way across the Country), I might consider selling it and moving up.

[Colt W Knight]

I wish I was closer too, Wiz. I have decided to save up for the larger machine.

[SkullCanyon]

I have to admit that I do miss having the Pearson around here. Since I don't ride MC's anymore she was kind of my shovel head old school iron.

Great machine. This Cowboy model gets the job done though, I like it.

Just received an inline foot system from Bob Kovar for it. Any one have a heads up on the adjustment needed to make it work?

I tried to install it and got frustrated. The presser foot and walking foot are binding and the presser foot is not securing the work at all.

I put the double toe back on and reset for it because I had a job to get sewn up. I want to try this foot out though.

Anyone using this inline foot?

[Wizcrafts]

I have the inline feet, not foot. There are two pieces required. You absolutely must use the special inline inside foot in order to use the back foot. Both are shorter than the harness set. So, you'll need to lower the presser bar enough to get the pseudopod foot to reach the throat plate. Then, you must readjust the alternating foot crank on the back of the left end of the head. This crank controls the ratio of alternation between the two feet.

[SkullCanyon]

Thanks Wiz - I have the two piece set. I knew about the alternating crank adjustment. New to this machine though so I will have look at the Manuel on how to lower the presser bar.

.

[Wizcrafts]

You'll have to open up the face plate and remove it to access the screw on the presser bar. When you loosen it, pull straight down until the foot reaches the throat plate. Line it up as accurately as possible, then tighten down the set screw. Oil the tiny holes in the cranks inside the head, then reinstall the faceplate. Rotate the handwheel towards you until the needle just reaches the plane of the feed dog. The inside foot should also reach the plate, just after the point of the needle. As you rotate farther, the needle and inside foot should move with the feed dog, and the back foot should lift up. When the feed dog drops, the needle pulls up, the back foot should drop and then the inner foot should lift.

If the above doesn't happen, stop when the needle reaches the throat plate and raised feed dog. Loosen the large hex bolt behind the head, on the big crank arm. Manually move the inside foot until it just contacts the feed dog or throat plate. Lock down the bolt on the arm. That should do it.

[SkullCanyon]

You'll have to open up the face plate and remove it to access the screw on the presser bar. When you loosen it, pull straight down until the foot reaches the throat plate. Line it up as accurately as possible, then tighten down the set screw. Oil the tiny holes in the cranks inside the head, then reinstall the faceplate. Rotate the handwheel towards you until the needle just reaches the plane of the feed dog. The inside foot should also reach the plate, just after the point of the needle. As you rotate farther, the needle and inside foot should move with the feed dog, and the back foot should lift up. When the feed dog drops, the needle pulls up, the back foot should drop and then the inner foot should lift.

If the above doesn't happen, stop when the needle reaches the throat plate and raised feed dog. Loosen the large hex bolt behind the head, on the big crank arm. Manually move the inside foot until it just contacts the feed dog or throat plate. Lock down the bolt on the arm. That should do it.

Thanks Wiz - I got it on and adjusted, works great. Now I won't have to bother Bob on Monday.

Those two set screws on the presser bar were a bear to loosen, I thought for sure I was gonna snap the slot off.

I replaced them just snugly.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks Wiz - I got it on and adjusted, works great. Now I won't have to bother Bob on Monday.

Those two set screws on the presser bar were a bear to loosen, I thought for sure I was gonna snap the slot off.

I replaced them just snugly.

When you change back to the harness feet, align the outer feet straight so they're straight ahead and not touching the inside foot, which should also face straight ahead.

The regular feet were adjusted so the inside foot arrives at the feed dog just after the needle. If you sew really thick leather, you may find that reverse doesn't match forward stitches. If so, you can readjust the moment of contact between the needle and inner foot to regain equal stitches. However, if the reverse stitches are longer than forward, it is easier to feather the position of the stitch length lever to match the holes. Less upward position gives shorter reverse stitches.

The tightness of the top and bottom threads also affects your stitch length.

Finally, you may have the exact stitch length set into 8 ounces of leather. But, when sewing 1/2 inch the stitches will be shorter. This is due to the pendulum effect of the needle bar. The pendulum swings farther as you move away from the pivot point at the top. Always be prepared to run a test strip when changing thickness, or density, or material, or thread size, or thread colors. Adjust the stitch length and tensions as necessary. Don't use more thread tension than is required to lay down consistent, nice stitches.

Edited August 30, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[SkullCanyon]

When you change back to the harness feet, align the outer feet straight so they're straight ahead and not touching the inside foot, which should also face straight ahead.

The regular feet were adjusted so the inside foot arrives at the feed dog just after the needle. If you sew really thick leather, you may find that reverse doesn't match forward stitches. If so, you can readjust the moment of contact between the needle and inner foot to regain equal stitches. However, if the reverse stitches are longer than forward, it is easier to feather the position of the stitch length lever to match the holes. Less upward position gives shorter reverse stitches.

The tightness of the top and bottom threads also affects your stitch length.

Finally, you may have the exact stitch length set into 8 ounces of leather. But, when sewing 1/2 inch the stitches will be shorter. This is due to the pendulum effect of the needle bar. The pendulum swings farther as you move away from the pivot point at the top. Always be prepared to run a test strip when changing thickness, or density, or material, or thread size, or thread colors. Adjust the stitch length and tensions as necessary. Don't use more thread tension than is required to lay down consistent, nice stitches.

Good information to know. Thanks again