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Bruce Evans

Landis Regular Lock Stitch Wax Thread Sewing Machine

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I have found this at our scrap yard,it came out of a old barn and needed some freeing up. Got everything I can see working. does not have a needle. I have lots of questions. were does the bobbin o an what does one look like, How to thread the machine. dos anyone have a copy of the manual .

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I have a quick video on my facebook page.

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To the left of the needle bar is a slide plate, slide it to the left inside you will find a large groove turn the crank and a bullet shaped shuttle should appear the bobbin is inside that shuttle. Bobbin is about 3 inches long looks like a wire with a washer near each end.

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Thanks, Guess I will have to find one as mine and the slide plate are missing. The hunt is on !

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They are hard to find and even harder to pay for. The last good one I saw sell was $300 . Some times you can find one that needs repair for around $100. The slide is easy to make.

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You will be farther ahead by making the cover yourself. Get a piece of sheet metal and a file and have at it.

Everyone calls this machine a Landis #1. That is fine I don't really care but when you go looking for information on this machine online you will not find it under that name.

The Smithsonian has an operators book on their website but I can't remember the path to get to it.

Good luck with your new toy. I have kicked myself many times for parting with mine.

Edited by Geneva

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sorry :...link ain't great info.......talk to Ron Ross..

www.rosaddlery.com

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Thanks for the information Everyone. Does anyone know if the base is cast steel or cast iron,I need to repair mine if I want to use the foot pedal,or would I be just as well off to make a new base and put on a electric motor?

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It's cast iron. would not go to a lot of trouble till I found a shuttle.

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That's what I was thinking also.

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Called Eli today, got a call back pretty quick.He had all my parts needed to get me up and running,cant wait for the order to get here. Now do I keep the foot pedals and base or bench mount it with a variable speed dc motor.Dont really have room for the base. Eli said he would trade parts for my parts off the base if I don't use it, decisions decisions.

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I left mine on the factory stand made a speed reducer and a clutch motor. That was 20 years ago. If I were doing it today I would use a servo motor instead if a clutch motor.

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I was thinking about a 1 or 1 1/2 hp vdc motor with a foot controlled reostate speed controller.

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I've got one too, Bruce. Awesome machine, from what I can tell (I haven't had it long). Ok, I may be slow...but who's Eli? I do need to see about some parts instead of rebuilding what I have. Thanks! John Hanson

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Eli is from landis sales and service,Great guy to work with. http://www.proleptic.net/app/webroot/filesProleptic_Feb%20Feature%20Story.pdf

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Thanks Bruce! Headed to the shop right now to scan that manual for you.

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Does anybody have a picture of what the slide should look like without the bobbin in and with it in place..I need to see what the slide looks like as mine had leather pieces in it that are not in good shape and I need to know what they are supposed to look like. Any help would be great, then I can get the machine finished up and maybe running,lol

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Great Thanks

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Didn't get it done for new years but I am close. Still got to make the hand crank handle that was busted off and figure out how the thread should come out of the shuttle so it can be picked up by the needle. Other than that it is just to get all the adjustments set and then decide if I want to use the foot pedal or just bench mount it and use a electric motor, but I can hand crank it for now. Should I leave the wax pot off or put it back on? Any help, maybe picture of how the shuttle is threaded would be of great help. Here are some pictures of what it looks like now.

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Wow, that cleaned up good!! Nice job!! I guess I better get off my butt and get mine shined up!

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Thanks

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nice! job, Bruce.

I wax the polished steel on my machines....with 85% humidity here, these bits rust real fast without some form of treatment [but oil the in-contact steel components].

Have had in-contact parts nickel electroplated [bed ,needle plates- but is expensive]

I'd prefer to put the wax pot back on if it was my machine- just in case I lose it [i'm still cursing losing parts off my Singer 97]

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Thanks,I did oil all the bare steel parts, didn't think about the nickel electroplate. Good idea, if I have to much of a rusting problem I may have to do that, as the humidity here is high also and bare metal will rust quick my knives will rust over night if I don't keep them oiled while I am working on them. If I don't mount it I will have it put up in the shop not to be gotten rid of.

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