Advice for my next belt

[eirenealetheia]

Well, seeing as I've only made one belt before and quite possibly fluked it with that one (LOL!), I think I really do need some advice so my next belt (Christmas present for my mother) turns out alright!

I've bought a pre-stamped belt blank (thought I'd make life somewhat easier on myself, rather than jumping in the deep end and trying tooling straight away!) that I'm hoping to antique stain and lacquer.

Now for the questions... How do you actually do the antique staining? The lady who sold me everything just mentioned something about "wiping it off before it totally dries" or something, but I want to make sure I get it right!! Also, how do I finish the edges of the belt, so that they don't go "fuzzy" with wear? What do I need to do that and how?

Thanks in advance, and sorry about the total newbie questions!!

[TomSwede]

Hi and welcome Eire (sumting)!!

Doubleposting is not necessary, you'll get help from this board anyways but maybe it was a mistake so on to your probs.

Doing the edges is a widely discussed subject here. Use the search form wich is available att the bottom of the screen whenever you get into one of the subforums. You can choose from the dropdown list to search a specific subforum or all. Use keywords like edges, edging, slick (ing), burnish and I think you get a bunch of threads and there are some with the actual topic right in the threadname. We have just had a really strong and lively thread about this.

In short you use a little tool called edge beveler to cut the edges so they get rounded and then you use a slicker (bone, hardwood and plastic is mostly used as slicker but a piece of canvas can also be used) and whilst leather is damp you polish (some say burnish) the edges to a smooth and/or high gloss condition. There is also different aids ranging from saliva(!!!) to a sticky goo called gum-tragacanth that you can put onto the edge while slicking to make it easier.

Staining, I usually take it off before completely dry. Most times I use a sponge too apply it to get a certain streaky grain effect but a circular motion is better to work it into all cavitys and crevages. I also use techniques where I seal the leather surface with acrylic sealer/finish (Fiebings leathersheen) before staining and most often those times I let it dry completely AND for special effect I have a certain tecnique where I don't seal AND let it drie completely wich creates a very special effect.

So with both theese topics there are as many techiques as leatherworkers. Study the threads and you'll find out interesting ones that you can try.

Many of us is very inclined to help out and guide through processes individually aswell as posting tutorials. That's often how the few tuts I've done have started.

Good luck with it and give us a call for help if you're stuck!!

Tom

[Rawhide]

Tom's right,

There are as many answers as there are members. But to keep it simple,

1. Stain the piece with eco-flo highlighter stain. (This has the greatest possibility of success.)

2. put on a heavy coat and work it in circular motion with a piece of sheeps wool, or a damp sponge.

3. Somewhere within 10 min. Wipe the excess off with a folded, wet paper towel.

4. Use a clean piece of sheeps wool to get excess out of the crevices.

5. Let dry completely. (overnight)

6. Buff the belt with an old tshirt. Until the dye is barely coming off onto the shirt.

7. Seal the stain with supershene, or satinshene. (there are many more finishes available, but for now this is probably the simplest)

8. Bevel the edges with and edge beveler. (If you get the Tandy ones, you'll need to sharpen them first)

9. Dye the edge if desired.

10. Take a wool dauber and burn it until it's crispy.

11. rub off the blackened crust with a paper towel until no more is shown.(It should look dark brown.)

12. use this to apply the dye to the edges.

13. Let this dry about an hour.

14. Dampen the edge and use a slicker, or bone folder, or piece of canvas to rub the edge back and forth to generate heat and it will fuse the fibers together.

15. Apply resolene to the edges if you have it with a burnt dauber. Let it dry, and slick it again.

16. You can also slick the back if the belt if you want, but that's optional.

Good luck,

Marlon

Edited November 26, 2008 by Rawhide

[eirenealetheia]

Whoops. Uh, sorry about the double post! Not sure how that happened!

Thanks for your suggestions.

For the burnishing (?) I just used a piece of calico, of all things, as that's what I had handy! Seemed to work alright, although I imagine it could definitely be better, LOL.

Fiddled around with an off-cut of the leather and the stain I bought. I'm not really sure *what* it is exactly, as the shop that sold it to me simply calls it "Antique Finish". However I did manage to get a somewhat nice looking finish by painting it on and rubbing a bit off before its totally dry, hand-painting part of the stamped design with black acrylic, and then finishing off with lacquer.

I'll share a photo when the belt is done, as I'd really appreciate critique. Its definitely a steep learning curve for me being a total newbie with absolutely no clue of what I'm doing or what tools are out there!!

Thanks again

Trinity

Edited November 27, 2008 by eirenealetheia

[Rawhide]

...I'll share a photo when the belt is done, as I'd really appreciate critique. Its definitely a steep learning curve for me being a total newbie with absolutely no clue of what I'm doing or what tools are out there!!

Thanks again

Trinity

That's what this place is for. We look forward to seeing your work. Everybody has to start somewhere and it's great to get started.

Marlon