Belt Slot Sizing

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When you cut your belt slots, do you cut them the actual size of the belt, or do you go a little larger? I have an el-cheapo (I think it actually says that on the side) punch from Tandy, and it measures exactly 1.5" overall. I can't use it because the steel folded over with the first punch into the leather... If you're making a holster for a 1.5" belt, is that the actual size of the slot overall? Or do you go a little larger? I assumed you'd go a little larger, as the slot is not receiving the belt at a perpendicular angle. Since the opening is actually at an angle to the belt, the effective size of the opening is a little narrower - thus I've been sizing the belt slot a little longer. When you feed the belt through, you run it perpendicular to the hole. When you wear the holster, it essentially pinches the belt keeping it from sliding in any direction.

I had a customer say there was too much belt slot play in a holster I built for him - he's using a double layer gun belt, but I have to assume it's not quite as thick as mine is that I used to form the slots (1/4").

Here is an example photo showing how the slot is narrower at the top and bottom, which causes the pinching action on the belt. Note that the holster was cut for a 4" gun, and the gun in the picture is a 4.25" (same size frame, different length slide).

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Update - I just sharpened my el-cheapo and was able to punch two slots. However, the slot is very narrow - very difficult to slide a 1/4" thick belt through. Also, it's exactly 1.5" wide, and so is my 1.5" gun belt. I imagine things will only get more tight once I form the holster and manipulate the leather at the belt slot openings. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'll probably order a Weaver oblong punch tomorrow and want to make sure I get the correct size for 1.5" belts. Are the slots supposed to be TIGHT, or just a little snug? I don't want it to be a pain to put on, but I don't want to get orders back because the slots are too big either...

[mdmorgan]

Update - I just sharpened my el-cheapo and was able to punch two slots. However, the slot is very narrow - very difficult to slide a 1/4" thick belt through. Also, it's exactly 1.5" wide, and so is my 1.5" gun belt. I imagine things will only get more tight once I form the holster and manipulate the leather at the belt slot openings. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'll probably order a Weaver oblong punch tomorrow and want to make sure I get the correct size for 1.5" belts. Are the slots supposed to be TIGHT, or just a little snug? I don't want it to be a pain to put on, but I don't want to get orders back because the slots are too big either...

I go 1 5/8 for a 1 1/2 belt. I also make the slot as wide as the belt is thick, plus a little.

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I go 1 5/8 for a 1 1/2 belt. I also make the slot as wide as the belt is thick, plus a little.

So you drill/punch your own end-holes, then chisel/cut out the opening to connect the holes? I've been using a 5/16" drill bit to drill the end holes, and my round knife to "connect the dots". The center point of my drill holes measure 1.5" center to center, which ends up making a pretty long slot... Even at that, though, it's still a bit difficult to slide the belt through the slots unless you run perpendicular through the holes. Otherwise, the holster sufficiently pinches the belt and I don't get any movement at all with my own in-house testing.

[mdmorgan]

So you drill/punch your own end-holes, then chisel/cut out the opening to connect the holes? I've been using a 5/16" drill bit to drill the end holes, and my round knife to "connect the dots". The center point of my drill holes measure 1.5" center to center, which ends up making a pretty long slot... Even at that, though, it's still a bit difficult to slide the belt through the slots unless you run perpendicular through the holes. Otherwise, the holster sufficiently pinches the belt and I don't get any movement at all with my own in-house testing.

Yeah that is how I do it. I think maybe your guy has an undersized belt. By the way your work looks great.

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Yeah that is how I do it. I think maybe your guy has an undersized belt. By the way your work looks great.

Thanks! And thanks for your help. Off to cut some more leather to build this guy a new holster...

[mdmorgan]

Thanks! And thanks for your help. Off to cut some more leather to build this guy a new holster...

I would make him buy a belt!

[Dwight]

So you drill/punch your own end-holes, then chisel/cut out the opening to connect the holes? I've been using a 5/16" drill bit to drill the end holes, and my round knife to "connect the dots". The center point of my drill holes measure 1.5" center to center, which ends up making a pretty long slot... Even at that, though, it's still a bit difficult to slide the belt through the slots unless you run perpendicular through the holes. Otherwise, the holster sufficiently pinches the belt and I don't get any movement at all with my own in-house testing.

Another way to do it, . . . punch one hole clear through, . . . re-position the punch so that the left end of it is in the hole already made, . . . slowly and deliberatly lower the rest down into the slot until the right side touches, . . . 1/8 of an inch farther to the right, . . . smack the punch and now you have a 1 5/8 inch slot. You should get a cleaner cut than round holes and chiseling, less cleanup that way.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Denster]

Erik

Best bet is to order a set from texas custom dies. I have ones for 1&1/2 and 1&/34 X3/8. Both dies cut about .040 over the stated size which is just about right. It's the width measurement that is important and of course being thick enough I think 3/8 is just right for a number of reasons. The Tandy and I believe the Weaver punches cut 3/16 thick which is OK for your normal dress belt but not for the dual purpose weight lifting belts some insist they need.

There are a couple of tricks to sharpening punches and punching belt slots. I only need one good whack with a three pound maul to go through two layers of 8OZ and occassionally a couple of light taps to finish the ends.

If you order from Texas custom tell them what you will be punching through and you need the shoulder taken back a bit. They will coome to you ready to work and take note of how they are sharpened. The inside edge has a small bevel that is polished as well as the outside edge. You can't have a really sharp tool unless both surfaces comming to the edge are smooth. You can do the same with the Tandy punches. unless you bought the cheap tube ones in which case throw them away. I've only had to touch up my ones from TCD once since they came and that was after more than a hundred slots.

The second trick is to have a solid platform over which to punch. My marble slab sits over one leg of my bench I put a piece of old cutting board from a wal-mart plastic cutting board on top of it and whack away. Used to use a poundo board but even that slight amount of give made the job harder.

The two dies I got from TCD totaled I believe $142 shipped and they will make them however you want them.

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Excellent - thanks Denster. I was looking at the sample slot size on the Weaver catalog, and as you suggested, they still looked a little thin and didn't seem like they'd work well with a double-layer belt. I'll put an order in with TCD today. The punch I got from Tandy was their heavy duty one - it has a severe taper on the punch. I can't imagine punching through two layers of leather with it - it's hard enough to get through one layer - even with a lead mallet...

[Lobo]

In cutting belt slots there is another thing that needs to be kept in mind, and that is the angle of the slot to the belt line.

If the slot is to be precisely perpendicular to the line of the belt then a 1.5" slot length will be correct for a 1.5" belt.

When the angle of the slot is changed (on an angle to the belt line) the length of the slot needs to be increased. Every possible angle will result in a different length.

I like to use wooden mandrels to lay out belt lines and mark the points at which the slots are to be cut. I make the mandrels in 1/4" thickness, about 12" long, and for each belt width (1.25", 1.5", 1.75", etc). This permits all belt attachment points to be laid out and marked at once. Then while the holster is being formed I use the wooden mandrels to form each belt attachment point, forcing the mandrel all the way through all belt attachments (slots, loops, etc) to simulate what a belt will do when the holster is worn. As the holster dries the fully formed belt attachment points become permanent.

Actually, the angled belt slots provide some advantage. Since the slot length actually exceeds belt width the belt can be pushed through more easily, and then when the belt is fully through all slots (loops, etc) it will be firmly anchored top and bottom.

[Denster]

You'll like the dies. Just remember to tell them what you are going to be cutting through so they can grind them correctly. The Tandy one can be made to work wel,l as the steel is decent. You do have to clean up the inside and then lengthen that secondary bevel on the outside. They were not, as they come, designed to punch belt slots in heavy veg tan but slots in bag leather for closures or straps. Trying to wallow that big shoulder behind the edge through heavy leather is an excercise in futility.

[gregintenn]

I punch two 3/16" holes 1.5" apart, center to center. I then draw two straight lines from the outer edges of the top hole to the outer edge of the bottom hole. I then cut along the lines with a hobby knife. Probably not the most efficient way, but it works for me, and those punches are expensive!

[Denster]

I punch two 3/16" holes 1.5" apart, center to center. I then draw two straight lines from the outer edges of the top hole to the outer edge of the bottom hole. I then cut along the lines with a hobby knife. Probably not the most efficient way, but it works for me, and those punches are expensive!

Depends if you are doing it as a hobby or business. It only takes the time saved on 3 or 4 holsters to pay for the punch.

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Okay - I just got off the phone with Texas Custom Dies, and placed an order for a couple punches. Very nice lady, easy to talk to, and very helpful. They don't stock the punches, and custom make them per order so you can get them exactly the size you want. Now I just need to order a 4 lb. maul!

[gregintenn]

Depends if you are doing it as a hobby or business. It only takes the time saved on 3 or 4 holsters to pay for the punch.

Point well taken. I am a hobbiest.