Jump to content
papaw

New Swivel Knife

Recommended Posts

I been having issues trying to do some simple carvings and doing practice with and old swivel knife and had just about gave up thought the arthritis in my hands and finges was causing the issues. Well to make this a little shorter story I just bought a Barry King Swivel, and guess what I traced out a letter

as soon as I opened it and was able to carve and follow the lines. Hands still are issue but the knife and blade are so smooth there is no fight in getting it to turn when you want it to. A big thanks to Barry King on a good knife IMHO

Thanks for reading

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It amazes me how judgmental people are about those who have never had the opportunity to use a good knife. PaPaw, make sure you know how to strop that knife regularly to keep it cutting like butter. If you don't know how to strop, let me know and I will talk you through it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It amazes me how judgmental people are about those who have never had the opportunity to use a good knife. PaPaw, make sure you know how to strop that knife regularly to keep it cutting like butter. If you don't know how to strop, let me know and I will talk you through it.

Me? I think it is a pretty good stretch to deform my comment into anything judgmental.

I see people all the time with dull knives trying to carve. Often times you show them that it is dull and the difference to a sharp knife (yes, mine is sharp, you can skive with it) and they just shrug their shoulders and tell you they do not know anything about sharpening so it is what it is. I have attended classes where the instructor did not know how to sharpen so he was telling people that it is not good for your knife to be "too sharp" because you would not be able to control your cutting. I see many people trying to carve with low quality blades that fight and struggle trying to carve or sharpen it.

I also have sharpened blades for numerous people. Taught many how to sharpen too. Papaw is to be commended on stepping up to a nice, well working knife.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No deformation at all. Hard to tell with the way you word things, bro. Not a lot of meat in your first statement, and you make it sound like folks carve with a dull knife on purpose. Why would you want a swivel knife so sharp you could skive with it? That's fine if it works for you, but that's not the proper edge for carving IMO. If it were, every decent knife manufacturer would ship them from the factory that way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do know how to strop the blade and my blades where as sharp as they could be. I watch many vedios and talk to a few people to insure I was right. The problem was the knive was avery old knive that just the finger yoke would spin on the post. Each and every knive I own Will shave you. I just had to try a better knive before I just went to stamping patterns. Now it is time to do some good solid practice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

..... Why would you want a swivel knife so sharp you could skive with it? That's fine if it works for you, but that's not the proper edge for carving IMO. If it were, every decent knife manufacturer would ship them from the factory that way.

First, I apolagize to papaw for the thread being steared in a poor direction. When I saw the above responce I was not going to respond, then I read it and saw the question directly too me. I will respond again, but this is the final time here in this thread.

You want a knife to be very sharp because sharp knives cut better than sort of sharp ones. Sort of sharp ones cut better then dull ones, and so on. Every decent knife manufacture does ship their knife "that way". Low end knives are hard to sharpen well, so they tend to be left only sort of sharp. Barry King knives can do it, try a new blade on the edge of your leather. It surprised me the first time I saw this, but it is a great quick test to see if your knife is sharp, or if someone is taking the edge off from improperly stroping. If you want to learn how to get your knife that sharp, show up to Tandy in Portland OR for leather work days (every other Saturday). Either Michael or I will show you how to do it.

As you said, in your opinion, your knife does not need to be "so sharp". As I said, I have heard people actually tell people that before. Bottom line is that sharp trumps dull. If your hands hurt, not having to press as hard to compensate for a dull knife makes life easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old tandy blades have a really steep angle and no bearings, which makes them difficult to control. I had one and I switched to a BK soon after I started because it made my hand hurt too. Barry makes a blade where the geometry s correct, so Papaw, if your blades were sharp, its the new geometry and the yoke construction that makes your knife "Cut better" than the sharpness, if Aaron's logic is to be followed. I use leather wrangles swivel knives, and they are about as sharp as they come, but it never occurred to me to skive with a swivel knife. I suppose the distinct differences between round knife geometry and swivel knife geometry prevented me from trying it. Of course, I never tried to carve with my round knife either.

Either way, I am glad you've got yourself a good knife Papaw, and I'm looking forward to seeing some of your work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thank all for the replys and the info., electrathon I understand your reply from me being new and not knowing me or any background, And I do believe the Barrel and the poor Quality of the Blade where the big issue. I am joining a Leather Guild next month to start learning more. The closest Tandy store is over 90 miles away, but I have gone to the store before and talk to them about some of the issues and they where very helpful I must say. I didn't won't to cause any issues with this post, now all i have to do is learn to carve and not cut through the leather LOL. I have enjoyed the info and most of the people I have met on here. Keep up the Good Post and Feedback.

Thanks

Perry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perry I noticed you like these things...

This is a electric foamieCorsair Night Fighter I built

PICT0939.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see you have many talents by the way. Very good job on Corsair looks just like it should, but seeing some of your Leather work I wouldn't expect anything less Great job on both the Plane and Leather. Y

ep use to love flying, fingers cause me issues (couple of expensive crashs) so I only fly a couple of times a year. But I do run my 1/5 scale truck alot its not as far to fall to the ground LOL. I did nito and gas only as I like the noise. Tried my buddies jet once way to much plane for me, I am use to 40-60 the jet runs 160 plus. Hey have a great day and always land Wheels Down

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the compliments Pawpaw been building and flying R/C nearly as long as I have been doing leather work.

might as well throw my garage gunsmithing experience in there too.

Ya I used to fly nitro and balsa but found that electric and foam is much cheaper and usually easier to repair when lawn darting a plane :head_hurts_kr:

wheels down always except for when I am flying belly landers :thumbsup:

Edited by St8LineGunsmith

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...