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TranscendentalTopiary

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About TranscendentalTopiary

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  • Birthday 12/15/1985

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    Female
  • Location
    United States
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    Many :P

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  1. How do those dome top rivets hold their shape when you're peening the other side? Those look really nice. I never really liked the peened side or the flat back of copper rivets and burrs
  2. Those are amazing pieces! Yeah my first line of thought was more costume armor than functional (larp, renfaire etc) but figured if I'm going to do it i might as well do it right also it turns out that i'll have the clientele in the sca who want leather armor where i dont have clientele in the larp/faire scene. Maybe once i build a reputation I can start doing costume stuff too
  3. I'll see if any of my tools would work for hot stamping. I think all i have are bevelers and backgrounders tho
  4. Don't have the supplies to hot stamp atm. Funding is a bit limited so I'm trying to keep costs down and still move forward with projects
  5. Yeah, apparently oven drying doesn't take very long at all. Guess that idea is out. Using the anvil should work just like using granite to tool over, just not as comfortable and a bit fiddly lol. I think your head piece looks great imo
  6. I was unsure how quickly the leather becomes hard once the baking process begins. I know when dipping in hot water/wax it remains pliable until after it has cooled a bit. I was hoping the oven meathod would be similar but now I'm thinking it isn't, or that the window where it is warm and soft - cool and stiff is too small to get any tooling done. I was thinking to do my tooling on my anvil horn to keep the shape made from forming and still have a solid surface to tool over. Also using oven mits to handle the hot leather. No one seems to do it this way, so I'm guessing it doesn't work. How long are you keeping it in the oven for? Will try a couple ways of doing this whenever tandy has a sale on their leather and will update Thanks!
  7. Dipping it wont work for larger pieces, I'm going to have to paint and bake it. Doesn't the leather stay soft until it cools from being in the oven? So until it's fully dry and cool it would still be toolable right? Trying to avoid attaching tooled leather onto the hardened leather as it'll increase the cost of the finished product, on the other hand you can put the tooled portions onto a new body if the hardened leather ever gets damaged in fighting. The guys in my sca have been known to dent steel pretty good.
  8. I need some info on how to go about tooling leather that will be hardened for use as armor in sca heavy fighting and combat archery. No one in my local sca tools their armor so I'm not getting much help there, I've also spent probably a few hours both on search engines and searching this site looking for info but haven't found the answers to my specific questions. I plan on taking my cut pattern piece (~10 oz veg tan) and getting it pretty well soaked with water then shaping and baking it in an oven at around 180°f. When the leather is no longer soaking wet but still damp (comparable to properly cased leather) I'll remove it, do any sk and tooling, keeping the shape, then put it back in the oven to fully dry. Once dry I'll paint on a few layers of wax reheating between coats until the leather is fully saturated with wax. Does this seem like the proper way to tool leather that will be hardened? I want to know what to expect without wasting too much leather. Other meathods I looked into seem like they swell and shrink the leather quite a bit and you loose definition in your tooling. Just not sure how fast the leather hardens up when still damp out of the oven to get started on the tooling. Another option i thought of is hardening the leather and doing my tooling on a separate thinner leather that wont be hardened and stitching that onto the hardened leather, just not sure if stitching holes would compromise the durability of the armor with repeated abuse. Thanks for any insight on this, it's greatly appreciated
  9. Thanks everyone! I got into making different items as Christmas gifts from tandy kits. Tomorrow is payday and I am planning on buying a half shoulder and trying to make a wallet from scratch. Totally different tooling designs from the celtic ones. Still working on pricing but with these great tips i know I'll get it all figured out
  10. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll be playing around and I'm in no rush to sell anything, but selling one to cover the cost to make myself a couple would be a nice idea since the materials arent exactly cheap
  11. I had debated using stamps, going to look at the selection and mull it over. Thanks
  12. Sorry i posted pics in other areas of the forum, didn't want to barage the site with my pics Heres the pouch http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66700#entry434501 Heres the deck box http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66482&hl=
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