Newb with questions about making gun holsters.

[cuban11182]

Good afternoon. I have been thinking about getting into making my own leather concealment holsters. I have one leather holster for my P2000, but I would like to make a couple different variations of known holsters to see if they fit my body type. Instead of dropping about big money for each one of my guns in these holsters I would prefer to do it myself. I've been reading for the past couple of days to see what I could find on DIY posts etc. There is so much information here and at other locations that I get a little overwhelmed. I've read the JDLawhorn instruction and plan on using that for reference. For the most part I want to start making IWB holsters, later move on to both IWB and OWB, and finally I would like to try to make a shoulder holster. This will just be for me and maybe the old man if he wants one. I don't want to go crazy when it comes to initial start up costs in case I end up not liking it.

Here is my list of the things I am thinking of purchasing on the first go aroud:

111-807400 Groover,Stitching,Adjustable $10.00

111-8807411 Groover,Freehand $12.00

111-809100 Overstitcher,Set,Sz 5,6,7 $16.00

7-1 Punch Set,5 Pc $6.99

130-119500 Needle,EZ Thread,10pk $1.99

34-01 Gum Tragacanth,4oz $4.29

95-201702 Cement,Contact,Masters,8oz $8.99

88-478 Awl, scratch $2.99

144-6 Thread,Wax,Black,Heavy, 25yd $3.29

34-210001 Dye,Fieb,Reg,USMC Black, 4oz $4.99

111-43081000 Dauber, Jumbo, 10pk $2.40

111-811600 Bone $4.50

I think that this will be good enough to get me started on the IWB holsters. If I am missing something please let me know. I have found that Springfield leather is alot cheaper than Tandy leather when it comes to purchasing this firt order. I do luckely have a Tandy leather right near my work and picked up some leather scraps for some kydex/leather hybrid holsters that I am making as well.

Some questions that I have are:

What is the thinnest leather that people can use for a holster? Does it matter going from IWB holster to OWB to shoulder holster?

When wet moulding, how hard do you push on the leather to form it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Tac]

Add a good razor knife and a rawhide/poly mallet to your list and you should be good.

Regarding leather weight... I have seen some IWB holsters made out of 4/5 oz leather. Leather that thin is going to collaps when you draw and be a pain to re-holster IWB though. For OWB most holsters are at least 7/8 oz leather.

Wet molding depends on the moisture content of the leather regarding how hard to push. If it's reletively wet, you won't have to push very hard.

Good luck.

-Tac

[cuban11182]

Add a good razor knife and a rawhide/poly mallet to your list and you should be good.

Regarding leather weight... I have seen some IWB holsters made out of 4/5 oz leather. Leather that thin is going to collaps when you draw and be a pain to re-holster IWB though. For OWB most holsters are at least 7/8 oz leather.

Wet molding depends on the moisture content of the leather regarding how hard to push. If it's reletively wet, you won't have to push very hard.

Good luck.

-Tac

Tac,

Thank you for your quick response. I forgot to say that I do have a poly hammer as well. I'm a mechanic for the US Coast Guard and so I have quite the collection of tools as well.

When wet moulding should you start to see the marks as soon as you begin to outline or do they only show up once the holster is dry?

I've been reading that dying before the wet mold process is a more efficeint way to creat a holster, is this the case?

Again thank you for your responses.

Cuban

[pintail55]

Cuban.

I would recomend getting more needles, they tend to bend and break alot when you hand stich.

Also I dont use an acual boneing tool. You can usally find something laying around the house (sharpie, kitchen knife, back of your free hand groover)

that will work just as good or better. And I would just go to your local hardware or walmart and get contact cement. Same stuff usally just cheaper.

Also i didnt notice anything on your list to seal the holster when done. I highly recomend resolene but everyone is different.

Good luck and have fun

[Tac]

Cuban,

Regarding wet molding.... when you press the leather with your fingers (clip you nails to avoid making marks), you will start to see the general shape of the gun in the leather from your impressions. The detailed lines are created with a boning tool (like Pintail spoke of) and you will be able to see them while the leather is still wet.

Regarding your question about dying.... everyone has their own methods and some will do it one way over another. I found that with some of my holsters, I got more detail from the molding process by dying after the holster had been wet molded and had dried, when compared to dying before the wet molding process. You can do it either way. If you are doing your first holster in basic black in an oil finish (like you mentioned in your list), you should not have any problem with the dye fading or running if you choose to dye then wet mold. Either way, wear good rubber gloves when handling the dye.

Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask questions, there are some seriously talented people here on this board and all of them will take the time to help out and answer a questions.

-Tac