Want To Make My Own Holster And Belt

[Kcinnick]

I have been lurking around the forums off and on and I think I can tackle a couple of holsters and mag pouches. I really want to make some belts too, but I don't know how difficult it is to make such a long straight stitch (and all my current gun belts are double stitched).

I looked around the new forums, but it looks like it is mostly geared towards leather carving rather than constructing a holster and belt.

I am looking for suggestions on what tools are needed and what tools that aren't needed but will make life easier. I like my tools to last a lifetime, I would rather buy a quality tool the first time.

My goals are to build

A single clip IWB holster for a Keltec PF9

A dual Clip (or loop) IWB holster for an M&P

Mag carriers for a variety of mags

A couple of belts, some gun belts, some just plane ole leather belts made from quality leather, it is hard to find good belts these days.

I am curious about holster design, I know what I want to make, but how do you make a holster without it looking like you copied somebody? For those that sell their work, are there any styles that are copyrighted?

Thanks

[lonestar tactical]

There are some good tutorials out there that will help -

1 that comes to mind

http://www.jdlawhon.com/home.html

Also do a search on youtube - there are a lot of leather crafters who show basic holster instruction. Good starting point before you get started - helps to visually see vs someone typing it out for you to figure out.

This link is one that was given here on the board - never used it - There is a fee service and also a pay service http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/index.php/how-s-it-made/

As for tools see the first link - JD puts together a good list of things and his instructions are there to follow.

Be safe,

Doc

[katsass]

I have been lurking around the forums off and on and I think I can tackle a couple of holsters and mag pouches. I really want to make some belts too, but I don't know how difficult it is to make such a long straight stitch (and all my current gun belts are double stitched).

I looked around the new forums, but it looks like it is mostly geared towards leather carving rather than constructing a holster and belt.

I am looking for suggestions on what tools are needed and what tools that aren't needed but will make life easier. I like my tools to last a lifetime, I would rather buy a quality tool the first time.

My goals are to build

A single clip IWB holster for a Keltec PF9

A dual Clip (or loop) IWB holster for an M&P

Mag carriers for a variety of mags

A couple of belts, some gun belts, some just plane ole leather belts made from quality leather, it is hard to find good belts these days.

I am curious about holster design, I know what I want to make, but how do you make a holster without it looking like you copied somebody? For those that sell their work, are there any styles that are copyrighted?

Thanks

FWIW from the old grumpy guy: My initial suggestion would be to purchase the Al Stohlman book "How to Make Holsters". Almost every holster maker I know has his/her copy. Mine was purchased in the early 60's. It's beat up, but I still will refer to it now and again. Some of the illustrations appear somewhat dated, however the info has never gone out-of-date. It's well worth the fewbucks to purchase, and it should answer most, if not most all of your questions. Mike

[wizard of tragacanth]

If you want to sew a belt, especially with double row or ornamental stitching, you will need a sewing machine. A good sewing machine for leather is $2000 - $2500. You might want to start with single-ply, non-stitched belts in the beginning.

As Doc said above, search YouTube for leathercraft tools and you can see some videos. For comparison, a hand tool such as an edge beveler from Tandy is around $15; a premium edge beveler is around $70 - $90. You will need at least three hand tools: a stitch groover, an over-stitch wheel and an edge beveler. Among the other things that you will need are... a strap cutter, wing dividers, cutting boards, anvil, punches, snap setters, etc.

Nick

[TwinOaks]

Well, you don't HAVE to have a sewing machine, but after sewing one belt, you'll probably want one if you decide to continue leather work. You can spend a fortune on the tools before you ever make your first project. Start small and develop some skills before you drop a lot of money into this.........unless you just happen to have a lot of money to spend on a hobby. If that's the case, feel free to buy whatever we suggest!!!!

If you're near Kenner, you could stop by the Tandy store on Airline Hwy. They won't have EVERYTHING, but they should have a good selection of basic tools that you can get started with. Books, an Osborne awl (smaller blade than the standard Craftool), over stitch wheel (marks where holes go), edger, groover, etc.

When I first started, I used a fork (don't tell my wife) like a pricking iron to mark the stitches. A child's compass (school section at wallyworld) makes a suitable substitute for wing dividers until you get the real thing. Unless you're buying a machine from the get-go, you'll likely start with saddle stitching. I avoid the large eye "harness needles" from Tandy. I use the smallest pair of a pack from wallyworld's fabric dept. I also use waxed linen from the jewelry dept. at Hobby Lobby.

As far as other sources go.....well, you ARE on the largest and best forum for leather working on the planet. Look through the "how do I do that" section, the "holster, sheath,...." forum, and the "purses, wallets, belts" forum. At the beginning of each, there are topics that are "pinned", and often include tutorials on how to do something. You also have us, the collective membership, as a source and we are for the most part a pretty helpful group.

[wizard of tragacanth]

Here is a link to basic tools that might be helpful.

http://unblinkingeye.com/Guns/LTools/ltools.html

Be careful when you buy your first piece of leather. You don't want to buy something of such poor quality that there is no possible way to get a good looking project out of it and you don't want to buy a flawless, premium piece of leather that you cannot do justice to. Be sure to get the right weight of leather too. Just a rough guide but something in the 8 - 10 oz. range should be good but it really depends on what you are doing with it. If you are doing 2-ply stuff, then 4-5 oz back-to-back would be the way to go, again depending on which project and design you are using.

Nick

[Kcinnick]

Thanks, I'll go get the books first, then tools and leather.

I am not opposed to single ply belt, sometime I think my double ply belts are a little overkill since my main carry guns are an xd9sc, pf9 and occasionally an m&p9. I don't plan to take this beyond a hobby, but I do want pro quality tools. I load on a dillon 650xl, and I expect that kind of quality from everything I buy. Don't get me wrong, I do have a few one time use type tools from harbor freight, but I like quality when it counts. I don't mind spending money on the good tools. By anvil I assume that means a slab of granite?

What part of the hide should I buy for holster making? I see backs, double shoulders, sides, bellies, butts. I know I want tooling leather, 7/8 or 9/10 with little stretch. Herman oak seems to be the most recommended, and I looked up most of my handmade leather is advertised as being herman oak. What is the thickest belt strip you can get?

[katsass]

If you want to sew a belt, especially with double row or ornamental stitching, you will need a sewing machine. A good sewing machine for leather is $2000 - $2500. You might want to start with single-ply, non-stitched belts in the beginning.

As Doc said above, search YouTube for leathercraft tools and you can see some videos. For comparison, a hand tool such as an edge beveler from Tandy is around $15; a premium edge beveler is around $70 - $90. You will need at least three hand tools: a stitch groover, an over-stitch wheel and an edge beveler. Among the other things that you will need are... a strap cutter, wing dividers, cutting boards, anvil, punches, snap setters, etc.

Nick

Well, I'll take SLIGHT exception to Nick's mention of the NEED to have a stitching machine. Actually, all you need is time....and practice. Here's a western style crossdraw rig for an original Colt SSA. The belt is 42 inch in size, hand stitched Mike

P.S. The belt AND holster are two ply. I use only shoulder or double shoulder for all holster work.

Edited September 29, 2011 by katsass

[Kcinnick]

Everything I have read says hand stitching is better than a machine, I assume with practice....

Is the Diamond Awl method the best way to stitch? I read about people drill holes with drill presses, but wouldn't the hole never close around the thread if you used a drill bit?

[TwinOaks]

You're exactly right. Hand stitching, using a saddle stitch where one thread alternates sides of the leather and crisscrosses with another thread doing the same thing is the 'best' stitch. This is because if one thread breaks, the other is still holding, and you wouldn't see mass unraveling....at least not on the level of a lock stitch where one thread is on one side of the leather and only wraps around (locks) the other thread inside the hole.

If a lock stitch breaks, it could unravel a long way.....I had it happen not long ago where I got careless and put the backstitch (end of the stitching that 'locks' everything in place) at a stress point. A little force and the thread slipped...............restitch!!!!!!

Now there's nothing wrong with machine sewing items, not at all. But I and others feel that the saddle stitch is the most durable, and just looks better. That said, I have a machine for most of my stitching, and am always on the lookout to upgrade. Some of the machines can produce a quality lockstitch that looks as good any saddle stitch....but it's what's between the leather that's the key.

For your awl, yes, you want a 'diamond' awl. That refers to the cross section of the blade. it pushes the leather out of the way to make a hole instead of removing leather like a drill press would. Tandy sells an Osborne awl that is sufficient for most needs. The holes might be a little large for waxed linen (hobby lobby), but they're pretty close. The awl from Craftool is way too big for the thread. As Katsass has said, if the needle can be pulled through by hand, the hole's too big. I don't go quite that far....I can get the first needle through, but need the pliers to get the second needle through. You'll get the feel of it .....with practice. The key to hand stitching is consistency. Once the holes placements are marked, you need to push the awl through at the same angle (45 degrees to the stitch line), you need to keep the penetrations perfectly perpendicular through the leather (otherwise the back side stitches wander all over the place), and you need to follow the same overlap pattern for the needles....................on every stitch. An overlap example: Awl punches the hole, right hand needle goes through and crosses over and back, left needle goes in the top of the hole. Repeat. You could also have the r.h. needle go through and under. Or start with the left hand needle....as long as it's the same on every stitch it'll look good. To keep the blade angle consistent, you can sand/carve a flat spot for your thumb to rest. That will help keep the blade in the same position....it also helps keep the thing from rolling off a table/work bench.

Expect to have some sore fingers for a while. You'll be pulling on the thread -not the needle- ( the needle's only job is to get the thread through the hole) and the thread will usually take more than your fingers are willing to give.

When you stitch, don't use more than about 3 feet of line at a time. The thread in the needles goes through every hole, so if you've got a long run, the needle end of the thread will get raggedy looking while the start will look nice. If you get raggedy looking thread, complete a stitch and cut it off. Get new thread, back up 3-4 stitches and start the new thread, overlapping the ends of the previous thread.

Practice is the key.

Oh, and if you insist on absolutely the "best" awl, look to get one from Bob Douglas.

[katsass]

You're exactly right. Hand stitching, using a saddle stitch where one thread alternates sides of the leather and crisscrosses with another thread doing the same thing is the 'best' stitch. This is because if one thread breaks, the other is still holding, and you wouldn't see mass unraveling....at least not on the level of a lock stitch where one thread is on one side of the leather and only wraps around (locks) the other thread inside the hole.

If a lock stitch breaks, it could unravel a long way.....I had it happen not long ago where I got careless and put the backstitch (end of the stitching that 'locks' everything in place) at a stress point. A little force and the thread slipped...............restitch!!!!!!

Now there's nothing wrong with machine sewing items, not at all. But I and others feel that the saddle stitch is the most durable, and just looks better. That said, I have a machine for most of my stitching, and am always on the lookout to upgrade. Some of the machines can produce a quality lockstitch that looks as good any saddle stitch....but it's what's between the leather that's the key.

For your awl, yes, you want a 'diamond' awl. That refers to the cross section of the blade. it pushes the leather out of the way to make a hole instead of removing leather like a drill press would. Tandy sells an Osborne awl that is sufficient for most needs. The holes might be a little large for waxed linen (hobby lobby), but they're pretty close. The awl from Craftool is way too big for the thread. As Katsass has said, if the needle can be pulled through by hand, the hole's too big. I don't go quite that far....I can get the first needle through, but need the pliers to get the second needle through. You'll get the feel of it .....with practice. The key to hand stitching is consistency. Once the holes placements are marked, you need to push the awl through at the same angle (45 degrees to the stitch line), you need to keep the penetrations perfectly perpendicular through the leather (otherwise the back side stitches wander all over the place), and you need to follow the same overlap pattern for the needles....................on every stitch. An overlap example: Awl punches the hole, right hand needle goes through and crosses over and back, left needle goes in the top of the hole. Repeat. You could also have the r.h. needle go through and under. Or start with the left hand needle....as long as it's the same on every stitch it'll look good. To keep the blade angle consistent, you can sand/carve a flat spot for your thumb to rest. That will help keep the blade in the same position....it also helps keep the thing from rolling off a table/work bench.

Expect to have some sore fingers for a while. You'll be pulling on the thread -not the needle- ( the needle's only job is to get the thread through the hole) and the thread will usually take more than your fingers are willing to give.

When you stitch, don't use more than about 3 feet of line at a time. The thread in the needles goes through every hole, so if you've got a long run, the needle end of the thread will get raggedy looking while the start will look nice. If you get raggedy looking thread, complete a stitch and cut it off. Get new thread, back up 3-4 stitches and start the new thread, overlapping the ends of the previous thread.

Practice is the key.

Oh, and if you insist on absolutely the "best" awl, look to get one from Bob Douglas.

Couldn't have said it better ...or maybe even as well. Mike

[Dwight]

I guess I get to be the "other" voice.

1st power tool to buy: Harbor Freight, 1inch wide belt sander, . . . costs less than $50, . . . does all the edges on holsters, belts, purses, and does a good & quick job. A tubular sander can do a better job sometimes, . . . but it takes a lot more practice and a lot steadier hand.

2nd power tool to buy: Tippmann Boss Stitcher, . . . somewhere between $1000 (used) and $1500 (new with warranty, etc), . . . and if given reasonable care, . . . it should last you a lifetime of hobby leather work. If you get bored and want to unload it, . . . put it on Ebay with a $1100 reserve price, . . . it may have to stay there through a couple of cycles, . . . but they most generally sell quickly.

You could even buy a new one, . . . sell it on Ebay a year later, . . . lose $300 in the process, . . . but you will have saved your fingers and wrists an untold amount of pricks, jabs, wrenching, pulling and twisting.

AND, . . . you will have to practice for some kinda time, . . . and be a perfectionist type, . . . to hand stitch a 52 inch belt more evenly and better than my "Boss" will do it. That is not even counting that I will stitch that 52 inch belt in about 20 minutes, . . . while hand stitching will be at least several hours, . . . if not days.

Anyway, . . . welcome to the wonderful world of leather work, . . . it's fun, exciting, nerve-wracking, expensive, and rewarding: sorta like getting married or buying a motor cycle.

May God bless,

Dwight

[cjcinin317]

Leatherworking is just a hobby for me. I do sell thing occasionally but mostly just for fun. I did sell enough to pay for a used Boss on eBay. So you can make back some of you expense.

Compared to what friend spend on golf, its really nothing.

It's very rewarding and it's always cool to learn a new skill.

Just keep checkin out this sight. And not just the holster area. The other areas have amazing work in them.

Go for it and have fun.

C.J.

[Big O]

I've hand-stitched two belts. It's VERY time-consuming. Not that much of a factor, though, if you're doing it for yourself, or as a gift. Especially if you do your stitching like I do, while watching TV.

I'm not seeing a benefit to handstitching belts for sale, though. Unless I was charging $100+, I'd be working for less than minimum wage. And I don't personally feel that my end product (when it comes to belts, at least) is worth that much.

[Kcinnick]

After looking around this board I realize most of the "custom" leather I have is pretty average.

I bought two books, "The art of Hand Sewing Leather" and "How to Make Holsters". I think I might just stick to hand stitching a holster... It looks like a belt would take days.

What makes the tippmann boss stitcher better than the leather sewing machines available in the $1k to $2k range? I have seen machines as low as 1k recommended for belts and holsters in the sewing machine forum.

[TwinOaks]

The Boss has a couple of things going for it - it's VERY portable. I mounted mine to a 12x18x1.5" base, and it still weighs less than 40lbs. That means it can be set up to use, then put away later. It's also powered by YOU. The combination of the two means there's no requirement to have a spot near a wall socket. The big machines are BIG....the head alone on the ones like the Cowboy/Cobra/Artisan machines is in excess of 150lbs....then add the stand.....most are sitting at about 300lbs total, and are shipped as freight...on a pallet. Since the Boss is one stitch per pull of the handle, the learning curve is easy. You just wait until everything is in place and put the stitch exactly where you want it - no running off the piece of leather unless you're completely ignoring it. You can sew as slowly as you want.....and fairly quickly if you want, but not as fast as a motor. Now, for a belt......and yes I've done belts on mine.....a motorized machine is better. It's a LOT of pulls of the handle on one side of the belt.

If you were ONLY doing belts, let's presume max thickness at 1/4 inch, then a flatbed with 3/8ths capability is 'good enough'. However, it's best (as I suspect you know) to get more tool than you think you'll need. The same applies to sewing machines. The Boss will sew up to 3/4ths of an inch, which seems like a lot until you decide to make a sheath or a holster with a welt in it. Then all that extra capacity comes in VERY HANDY. For example: 8oz front, welt, and back piece = 24 oz ...or 24/64ths, which equals 3/8ths of an inch. If that was a lined with 4 oz, you have another 1/16th per side making the total thickness right at half an inch. The layers build up pretty quickly.

Another thing about the Boss is that it is a needle feed with a jump foot. The needle goes down and pulls the leather while the foot is up, then the foot comes down to hold the leather while the needle goes up and resets its position. That's not quite as good as a walking foot, or (even better) a Unison Feed which uses walking feet AND needle feed. But, it IS a lot better than feed dogs if you're going to have the grain on top and bottom of the piece (which you would in most holsters). Feed dogs can mark the leather if you're not careful, or using special 'smooth' feed dogs.

The powered machines that have the capability are certainly a match for the Boss, but they do cost more. That said, you can occasionally find one on here where someone is going out of business and selling their machine for a bit less than what they bought it for, but unless they're local to you, you'll still have to arrange shipping. I got my Boss from this forum, and have been very happy with it. It has limitations, but then, so does my wallet!

[Kcinnick]

I have plenty of room in my reloading room. I have two workbenches built. I started with a 4X8 that I thought I would need for reloading, but I quickly downsized to a 48"x18" for reloading and now have a huge bench I can't get out of the room without dismantling. I like being able to reach everything without moving.

I really want to make some belts, so I guess I will look into a machine, the expense can't be more overkill than using a dillon 650 to reload 9mm...

[cjcinin317]

Another advantage of a machine is when using a new pattern, which are not always perfect the first time. You have 15-25 min sewing time in it instead of 3-5 hours. Most of the time you won't know the stitch line is off or you need more room for belt slots or whatever till it's made the first time. Probably my favorite thing about my Boss.

C.J.

[Shooter McGavin]

I just sewed up one each of a 60" and a 62" dual layer gunbelt. On the Boss. If you're running a high volume production shop, it might not be the way to go, fits in perfectly for me. I'd love to buy a Cobra Class 4, and was debating the one for sale in the classifieds for 2000, but I figure that money can be better spent elsewhere for the time being. Right now I can stitch a bunch of holster or belts on the weekend, then mess around after work for a few hours finishing the batch, then start over again next weekend.

[TwinOaks]

That workshop sounds suited to a Boss. For one of the big machines, you pretty much need the floor space of a standard pallet....maybe a skosh more.

[Josh Ashman]

I have plenty of room in my reloading room. I have two workbenches built. I started with a 4X8 that I thought I would need for reloading, but I quickly downsized to a 48"x18" for reloading and now have a huge bench I can't get out of the room without dismantling. I like being able to reach everything without moving.

I really want to make some belts, so I guess I will look into a machine, the expense can't be more overkill than using a dillon 650 to reload 9mm...

Kcinnick,

I hope you enjoy building your own leather projects, I know I do. By all means buy whatever you want but some of the time estimates for hand stiching may be a little overstated. Don't be afraid to hand stich a belt, with a little practice you'll be looking at a few hours, not days. I basically follow the method shown in the Stohlman book, although I do push all my holes before starting the actual stiching. I put one of those rubber pads over my cutting board, lay my work over that with the stich groove already gouged and the stich spacing already made with an over stich wheel. Then, I push the holes through with an awl one at a time pushing straight down. After that I sew using a saddle stich with two needles working from one end to the other. Most of the belts I make are single ply skirting so I don't have much of an estimated time on them but I do know that using this method I can sew the sheepskin on an average sized saddle skirt in an hour and a half of actual sewing time, not counting pushing the holes.

Everybody's different and different types of work are suited for differnt methods but for the time I spend making a pattern, cutting, stamping, molding, edging and finishing a project the difference between a few hours and a half hour doesn't add up to the cost of a machine. Just my two cents, good luck and have fun.

Josh