What Type Of Machine For Sneaker Reconstruction

[904slumpin]

Hi I'm new to the forums and i need some advice on a machine that will reconstruct basketball sneakers.

I'm into sneakers decons and i have a couple questions, I am looking for a machine that will succesfully sew these fabrics such as leather, exotic skins and suedes

I know these machines cost thousands of dollars BUT is there a good enough older used machine that i could find on craigslist for around $4-600. I dont care if the thing is covered in rust and from 1809 aslong as it does the job.

A few models on my local craigslist would be

singer model 20-13 for $400

tacsew t622r for $500

singer 591 for $300

yamaha gc8500 for 600

juki ddl5530 for 700

chandler c-765

thompson pw201 (i beleive) for 400

singer 212g140 for $800

PLease any help is needed and suggestions/advice thank you

[DavidL]

upholstery sewing machines or medium weight sewing machines should be good enough. I have started a converse reconstruction that I have set aside for a while, its nearly half done. Even hand sewing would work if you are willing to learn, all you need is an awl, needles, thread, scratch compass and either a pricking iron or overstitch wheel. The easiest route of hand stitching would be with a speedy awl, only the speed awl and thread is needed.

If your going to do sneaker construction right then don't go with cheap fabrics like some of these customizers use. You also can't use any leather over 2 ounce (for the most part) and you must thin down the edge with a skife or sharp utility knife or else when you turn the edge over it will look too bulky.

Edited November 14, 2014 by DavidL

[904slumpin]

What should I look for specifically is there any specs or anything I should look for when I find a machine? I have found out that post machines work well and there is a couple on ebay for around 600.

I am actually going to do a little project by hand this weekend so that should be interesting lol thank you for the reply!

I just feel any newer machine will run in the 1000s I'm sure I could find an older one from somebody who needs money on Craigslist for around 6 or 7 or is there cheaper newer ones that will do this work. I just don't know what specs or what key words to put in. Are "upholstery" and "medium weight" machines what I should look for? I just don't wanna type in upholstery and it show some 400 brand new machine that I think will do the trick but it doesn't because I didn't know the specs to look for. You know what I mean?

[904slumpin]

Thanks for all the tips I'ma look for a speed awl at Michaels this weekend

[silverwingit]

You are in danger of getting off to the wrong start.

Unless you are a sewing machine mechanic buying a used one is a crap shoot. Take samples of your materials and test prospective machines before purchasing. Make sure all the attachments and accessories are there as they can cost a lot to replace them (feet, bobbins, etc.). Better yet go read and understand the posts in the sewing machine section of this forum. Tons of excellent advice by real experts.

And, you did not listen to the above advice. He did not say a "speed awl," he advised you to learn to stitch with a pricking iron or overstitch wheel, two needles and waxed thread. Speedy stitchers are for quick repairs, not big projects. Look up Nigel Armitage on Youtube to find out how saddle stitching should be done.

You are a member of the premier leatherworking forum. Learn to use it to avoid making poor decisions and correct the heading of your current path.

Michelle

Edited November 14, 2014 by silverwingit

[DavidL]

Best way would be either to machine stitch or hand stitch with an actual awl (with all the tools I posted above), the learning curve is steep. There is a bit of a learning curve for the speedy awl, a bit less than actually learning how to sew on a machine or saddle stitch with a normal awl.

Speedy awl can get the job done (i've seen decent custom reconstructions using a speedy awl) w/ thick thread or thin thread you just have to buy the thin needle version or normal needle version. It wont be as good as the regular hand stitched way obviously but would be a good way to not buy a sewing machine if you don't have the money.

Either way you will still need a speedy awl for certain nike shoes or other branded shoes that have stitches that connect the mid sole to the upper.

Another tip that I have experience with is to start off with converse all stars, you wont have to shape the toe box because that part is plastic. very straightforward. The hardest part of recon, is 1. taking apart the shoe since sometimes it can take 2 hours or more and 2. getting the shape correct (no shoe last).

[904slumpin]

He clearly says that a speed awl is the best way to hand stitch how did I not listen to the above advice lol I'm about to buy a thompson walking foot

[DavidL]

A speedy awl and saddle stitching with an awl are different things. Google or search for it first so you know the difference.

The easiest route would be the speedy awl, not best results but I have seen a fairly decent sneaker recon with a speedy awl using the fine needle. The best route in hand stitching is a regular awl saddle stitch although it may be difficult to do it on fabric. Machine stitching is fastest and will work on whatever material within reason.

I recommended the speedy awl because you can be able to stitch within an hour of practice. Saddle stitching and machine stitching takes several hours to days even to learn to do it correctly with different materials, curves, different stitches.

Heres an example with the speedy awl that I was referring to

http://paintorthread.com/2010/09/01/vans-sk8-hi-ssd1-with-how-to-customize-by-fresh-fly-customs/