Singer 29K72 Patcher Shuttle Carrier Issues

[Vinculus]

Hey all! This is my first post here, after searching for similar threads and coming up relatively empty. I just started out as a hobbyist shoemaker/wanna-be cordwainer a few months ago, and as such I eventually had to get an appropriate leather sewing machine, after using a Singer 99K for my first pair of boots and finding it troublesome to not be able to sew three-dimensional shapes.

I recently acquired a Singer 29K72 for a measly $200, and it is in remarkable condition. The previous owner seems to have taken good care of it and oiled/cleaned it regularly. Nevertheless I also did so as soon as I’d brought it home and it operates smoothly. It will gladly make stitches as long as 4 mm, although I operate with a much higher SPI for shoemaking.

However, I have run into a couple of small issues and was wondering if any of you have any suggestions as to how to rectify them.

1) The leading edge of the shuttle carrier is worn down a little bit. I have purchased a new shuttle carrier (and driving pinion) from College Sewing to replace it. The problem is the tiny set screw that holds the driving pinion and shuttle carrier in place: it just will not come loose. I have tried a variety of different flathead drivers, but none of them give me enough momentum to get the screw lose without stripping the very fragile slot in the screw head; since it is so small. It is also already slightly stripped from the previous owner fidgeting with it. I have applied oil directly to the screw, but it will not budge. Suggestions?

2) The user manual says the leading edge of the shuttle carrier should travel 1/3 of the way across the slot where the needle reaches its deepest point at each oscillation of the carrier. I have made this adjustment to the eccentric stud, but it seems to not want to stay adjusted to that point. After sewing for a few minutes, the shuttle carrier starts coming short of the slot for about 5 mm. The machine will still stitch, but gets prone to skipping stitches. Then I’ll have to adjust the eccentric stud again, but it will soon revert back to an incorrect position. Does anyone know why this is and how I can remedy it? When I first adjusted the eccentric stud, it was stuck, but some oil to the adjustment screw loosened it up and made it possible to adjust. Is it possible I have damaged something when adjusting it the first time, perhaps? There is some very minor slack to the shuttle carrier, but not so much that it would move that far on its own without the eccentric stud being adjusted.

3) The needle clamp position adjustment is stuck also. Loosening the screw does nothing. I have oiled it, but it won’t budge. This is the smallest issue so far since the needle is still centered nicely above the needle plate hole, but I’m dreading the day I have to actually adjust it and won’t be able to.

The two first issues combined leads to the machine skipping stitches every 10-15 stitches or so, which is very annoying. When it skips one stitch, it will also skip the next…and the next, so I have to stop what I am doing, lift the presser foot and move the material back to where it first skipped a stitch before I can continue sewing. Mind you, I am making shoes where a lot of the stitching is decorative and therefore needs to be impeccable, which is difficult when you have to remove the material and move it around a lot.

[Wizcrafts]

Try a little heat on the needle clamp. Remove the screws, needle and thread first. Tap on it sideways with a rawhide or plastic mallet. It will come loose. Keep in mind that it moves sideways.

I think heat may also help loosen the set screw in the driving pinion. If not, try to drill it out. Then replace the shuttle driver, driving pinion gear and set screw.

I have found that new replacement parts don't fit the same as Singer parts did. You may have to tap on the bearing that holds the shuttle driver after installing new (top and bottom) parts.

The shuttle screw needs to be tightened all the way. If the original is tight, but the hole in the shuttle driver or pinion gear is worn oversize, you will get slack in the timing.

[Vinculus]

Try a little heat on the needle clamp. Remove the screws, needle and thread first. Tap on it sideways with a rawhide or plastic mallet. It will come loose. Keep in mind that it moves sideways.

I think heat may also help loosen the set screw in the driving pinion. If not, try to drill it out. Then replace the shuttle driver, driving pinion gear and set screw.

I have found that new replacement parts don't fit the same as Singer parts did. You may have to tap on the bearing that holds the shuttle driver after installing new (top and bottom) parts.

The shuttle screw needs to be tightened all the way. If the original is tight, but the hole in the shuttle driver or pinion gear is worn oversize, you will get slack in the timing.

Thanks for the tips! I tried to apply some heat with a 15W soldering iron to the shuttle carrier/driving pinion set screw, but it did not help. I feel like I do not have the right tool for the job, as I only have these tiny precision screwdrivers where you get no momentum at all. I would prefer not to drill out the screw, as I honestly don't trust myself to be able to set things right again if I slip and damage something that can't be replaced. I'll go see if I can get some better small flathead screwdrivers before I do any more damage.

The needle clamp came loose though. Success!

[Wizcrafts]

Okay. If you don't have a precision torch, try using a hammer on the back of the precision screw driver, tapping as you turn.

[Vinculus]

Well, the problem solved itself.

I got new needles today, Schmetz 332LL. Turns out those are significantly longer than the hundreds of needles that came with the machine. No skipped stitches anymore!

Guess the original owner used the wrong needles that sort of worked because it's impossible to get the right ones domestically.

[shoepatcher]

That machine, the Singer 29K72 is supposed to run on 29x3 or 29x4 needles which are essentially a system 135 x16 or 135 x 17. A 332 and 332L are the same as a 29x3 and 29x4. What needles were in the machine when you got it?

glenn

[Vinculus]

Yeah, I knew that - I guess the previous owner did not. The needles that came with the machine were Groz-Beckert UY-113 GS. Those are a full 4 mm. shorter than 29X4/332L needles, so I'm amazed the machine would stitch with them at all.

The machine still skips stitches here and there when sewing more than 3,5 mm thick veg tan, but I suppose that is around its limit anyway. Now if only I could get that pesky shuttle carrier set screw out and replace the part...

[Constabulary]

Check with College Sewing in the UK, they have TOWA made shuttle carrier which seem to be of good quality. I have a small TOWA carrier in my 29K71 and it works fine. This is the large one for the 29K72

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82205-SHUTTLE-CARRIER-LG-CAP-SINGER-29K-TOWA

Check their 29K parts:

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Singer29K,29USewingMachineParts

But since your 29K72 is in a very good condition I´d rather check the needle / hook timing before you are going to buy a new shuttle carrier.

Edited November 3, 2015 by Constabulary

[Vinculus]

I have already purchased the necessary parts from College Sewing, but thanks The problem is getting the old ones loose so I can replace them, haha.

Edited November 3, 2015 by Vinculus

[dikman]

I agree with Constabulary about checking the timing. If it's sewing with much shorter needles the only way that I can see that would work is by mal-adjusting the timing?

[Vinculus]

Is there anything more to timing the hook and needle than to adjust the eccentric stud so that the hook reaches its correct leading position when the needle comes to a slight stop in its lowest position? Dang, that was a long sentence with no stops. I've followed the guidelines in the manual to make that adjustment, which seems to be holding.

[Wizcrafts]

Is there anything more to timing the hook and needle than to adjust the eccentric stud so that the hook reaches its correct leading position when the needle comes to a slight stop in its lowest position? Dang, that was a long sentence with no stops. I've followed the guidelines in the manual to make that adjustment, which seems to be holding.

Yes. If the shuttle driver hole is worn and it allows the shuttle driver to move around the set screw, the timing will become retarded at the worst time. So, getting that screw out becomes the most important factor to determining if there is excessive slack in the drive system.

[Vinculus]

Blergh, I wish it would be possible to have the machine serviced easily here in Finland. I stopped by the only sewing machine shop in the city the other day, and the moment I mentioned "shoe patcher" they just went NOPE and wouldn't even talk to me.

[Vinculus]

Is this amount of slack too much, or is it within acceptable amounts? Video here: http://gfycat.com/PointedSpryBoar

I've never handled one of these before, so I have no idea how much is too much.

[Wizcrafts]

Is this amount of slack too much, or is it within acceptable amounts? Video here: http://gfycat.com/PointedSpryBoar

I've never handled one of these before, so I have no idea how much is too much.

Not really too far gone yet. But, that slack does not heal itself. I have two patchers. One has almost no slack and the other has about as much as yours. Neither skips stitches on a regular basis. But, both skip occasionally. Patchers are what they are.

[Vinculus]

Alright, good to know - thanks! I think I'll try and minimize the slack anyway since it can't hurt, so I ordered basically all the rack box parts to rebuild it. Just gotta build up the courage to drill out that old set screw first. Will keep everyone updated once the rest of the parts arrive!

[Darren Brosowski]

Some of the 29x needles I have seen recently are in fact just 135X16 or 135X17 so be careful how much you pay for what you get

I did not read all of every post so not sure if it was mentioned but the needle clamp can be moved sideways so make sure the hook is within 0.5mm to the needle.

[Ole South]

A 15w soldering iron is going to take a very long time to heat up that much metal. You might try a drop or two of brake fluid and come back the next day. Just remember, brake fluid will remove auto paint, watch for drips.

[Vinculus]

Hmm, might try the brake fluid. Anything to avoid mechanically removing the screw really.

After making some more adjustments to the eccentric stud and needle clamp, I got the machine sewing relatively well. Here is a shoe I did yesterday. It's not perfect, but slowly getting there.