Vinculus

Okay folks, for anyone who might need advice on how to solve this in the future, I decided not to go the VFD route. Instead I bought a new motor: 1hp single phase 1400RPM 750 watt motor 70 and 100mm. pulleys with the correct bore and key size Simple ON/OFF switch Hopefully this solves my problems. The Rapid machine has an external clutch, so I didn't need to worry about getting a clutch motor. Continuous drive is where it's at.

Okay, then I’ll probably just buy the one you linked to on the German eBay page. The new Omron 0.75KW is €175 locally, so I might as well save a few bucks. Thanks a lot for all the help! Wish the VFDs were a bit more bare bones with not as many settings and the digital menus though. Plug and play is my kinda deal, haha.

Thanks for lending me some grace, haha. And yeah I particularly would like to avoid the ever-so-trusty servo motors because of the torque issue. I think I changed my link after you clicked it. I actually found an Omron (well actually Yaskawa) locally. If you could take a look at the updated link, think that would work?

I see. How about the this? I can get that locally. I feel like an idiot since I don't know anything about these things.

Got it. Could you link me to an affordable VFD on ebay (from China I guess) that would work? Something like this maybe? I have no idea how to hook the motor up to it though, but that can be solved.

Yeah he was asking 150 initially. I didn’t take a picture of the new wiring. He changed it from star to delta if I remember correctly. We did a test where he just wired the new mains with a single phase plug right to the motor to see how it ran, plus the capacitor. It ran continually like it’s supposed to do, but got hardly any more torque or speed when stepping on the “gas”. Edit: he wired it back to original and I tested it with the 380V connection. Ran like a dream with tons of power. Seems like this motor just wasn’t a good candidate for rewiring.

Disregard the above. I had an electrician rewire it to 220V and the motor ended up not having enough power to even drive the stitcher with no material to stitch. That was $100 wasted. Guess I’ll just have to get a new 220V motor.

Alright, so I bought a 25 uf capacitor and a new single phase power cord. Here are some pictures: That's the internals of the motor. The two loose wires come from the capacitor. Which wires should be moved and attached where? This seems simple enough. This is the rotation direction I need. The motor wires lead to this. The cable on the right comes from the motor. It then goes into the power switch: The cable on the right is for the motor. This is where I get confused and am not sure where to connect the new single phase power cable, since there's this second cable there and it seems like they share several prongs. I assume I must adjust this to about 1.7A? Thanks!

I’ve pretty much decided to just keep the machine in a storage unit until we move to a bigger place on the first floor. It’s mounted to a so-called Euro pallet (120x80cm) already which gives it a bigger footprint. There also seems to just be two huge bolts attaching the machine head to the stand, so it shouldn’t be too hard to split it into two parts for easier transportation.

Thanks a million! I don’t know if I dare to do this myself but at least now I can show this to someone competent who can rewire it for me. You put a normal 1-phase plug on this at the end right? Like the black plug in my picture up here.

Hi guys. I took a second look at the plaque on the motor of the stitcher today. Notice how it says 220/380V on the label below the HP: This leads me to believe the motor can be run at 220V as well, the standard domestic voltage in my country. But the power plug is three-phase, the black one is for the bobbin/wax heater and the red three-phase is for the motor: Notice also how the on/off switch has been replaced. The ugly gray brick is the new switch. Any ideas how I can get this up and running on 220V? It seems a bit counterintuitive that the motor itself is three-phased but is marked to still be able to run on regular single phase 220V current? I really have no idea about all of this, which is why I need your help. Oh, and I stitched some soles by handcranking it. Some tension issues still to figure out, but I'm getting there!

Yup! I actually went back and rethreaded the stitcher differently; not going through the "tube" with the clamp all the way at the back of the machine stand that holds the thread back before going into the tension wheel. That seems to have solved the thread breakage issue. It says you're supposed to go through the wax pot if you're using waxed top thread, but since my wax pot is clogged and there is a rotten thread in there, I just skipped it and went straight up from the thread spool through two guide holes and into the tension wheel. Seems to be working much better with this specific thread. Also set the bobbin thread tension to an absolute minimum, and now the stitches are both longer and nicer looking.

Hey I have the manual for the 309, but it's in Danish. I can scan it for you if you want.

I tried test stitching the inner stitchdown row on a trial shoe yesterday. It went to hell Thread just kept breaking on me, which hasn't happened on any of the dry runs on my sample piece. Back to the drawing board, a.k.a waiting for the new thread to arrive. The Ritza 25 just seems too heavily waxed and the machine doesn't want to pull it through smoothly, so it just breaks instead.

Ah, good to know. Will definitely see if I can't get hold of some of that then. Yeah me neither. Maybe Canadians and Northern Europeans are spoiled with outsole stitchers