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Brittany

Is It Possible To Oil My Saddle Too Much? How Do You Feel About Mink Oil?

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Silly question, I'm sure, but I've got a really old Tex Tan saddle, and I'm trying to be really careful with it.

I'm cleaning it and oiling it for the first time in a couple of years, and it's just drinking in the oil. Is it possible to oil the saddle too much and weaken the leather?

Also, I like to use mink oil on my leather. It really seems to bring leather back to life. I've used it successfully on tack that people thought I would have to throw away.

But I've also heard that using things like mink oil on tack is a bad idea because it causes the stitching etc to rot. Is this true? How do you feel about using mink oil?

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Hi Brittany,

I am not a big fan of unnecessary oiling. More than once a year is too much. I use Montana Pitchblend, it has mink oil in it. Even when something takes-up the oil quickly, I let it set for a day or two and make another assessment after the first oiling has distributed. Pecard's is very good too, this is another product that should not be overapplied. Too much oil can take the life out of leather, in arid climates, once a year is all you should need, in more humid climates, two or more years should be a rule of thumb.

Art

Silly question, I'm sure, but I've got a really old Tex Tan saddle, and I'm trying to be really careful with it.

I'm cleaning it and oiling it for the first time in a couple of years, and it's just drinking in the oil. Is it possible to oil the saddle too much and weaken the leather?

Also, I like to use mink oil on my leather. It really seems to bring leather back to life. I've used it successfully on tack that people thought I would have to throw away.

But I've also heard that using things like mink oil on tack is a bad idea because it causes the stitching etc to rot. Is this true? How do you feel about using mink oil?

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Guarantee you can get too much oil. One time my father in law decided he would do me a favor, and gave my saddle a bath in Neatsfoot oil. It took 3 or 4 years before I could ride without my jeans turning dark. It didn't harm the saddle any way, but it sure played hell with my jeans. Only good thing was the was the quietest saddle I ever rode.

Terry

Edited by terrymac

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I agree that you can oi your saddle to much. Once or even twice a year is plenty. Make sure you use a very good quality oil.

100% pure neatsfoot, olive oil or even 100% vegatable oil (same as for salads) but make sure it is vegatable. Apply

evenly to all parts of the saddle in light coats, one or two or maybe three should be sufficient. Give oil time to set

up between applications and besure each application is light. I am not a fan of mink oil on tack (like on hunting

boots however). I have applied a light application of BlackRock on tack after oiling for many years. An application

of this product about every 4 months really keeps the leather conditioned and alive.Hope this helps a bit.

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just lookin aboot n thought i'd add me 2 cents worth. i've been around a lot of factory saddle shops and some xtra good saddlemakers and all i've seen was a soaking of neatsfoot [pure] to darken th saddle also full days in th sun to accelerate darkening !t've used montana pitch n liked it skidmores too i still use oil; neatsfoot n veg oil.also i heard that mink oil is nothing more linseed oil fancied up

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Short answer: YES

Longer answer, Tack (including saddles) lasts longest when it is flexible enough to 'go with the flow' of stresses it encounters but not 'raggy' soft. All that said, there is quite a difference between maintainance schedules starting new to restoration of neglected or even abused stuff. On schedule, I opt for Lexol nf or Weaver Neatselene light (Olive Oil if that's all that is readily available, NOTE, grocery stores for small amounts) , to feed leather but not feed my clothes or horses' coats. On schedule, I avoid anything that contains things like mink oil, tallow, etc.

Restoration is different as has more variables than you can shake a stick at or than I have the energy to 2 finger type.

NOTE#2 Riggings, keepers, back cinch loops and gullet, cantle back covers should not be oiled as much as the rest as you don't want to soften them and thus comprimise their structural or strain roles.

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