Boiled Neetsfoot Oil?

[Chavez]

Hi!

I remember reading a waterproofing paste recipe that had boiled neetsfoot oil in it.

Is there any difference between boiled neetsfoot oil and just regular neetsfoot oil?

Thanks!

[Blackie]

I think you mean boiled linseed oil, there's another post on here somewhere about a waterproofing paste with beeswax, turpentine, and boiled linseed oil. Search YouTube for waterproofer there's also a video.

[oldtimer]

The neatsfoot oil is produced by boiling cow- and pigs feet, so all neatsfoot oil must be boiled in some way.

[Blackie]

[Chavez]

That's the video!

I am an idiot - it is boiled linseed oil, not neetsfoot!

Thanks!

Has anyone tried this paste on leather by the way? =) What results did you get?

And how bad is the smell? Is it likely to take over the nice smell of leather? What are the chances of me getting in trouble with my mrs for stinking up a few canvas bags =) ?

Thank you!

Edited December 29, 2012 by Chavez

[Hornbag73]

Hi this my very first post here so hello all, i got a tandy deluxe leather craft kit for xmas and have been looking around all over the web for info.

I watched a youtube movie

and Richard Black uses hot neats foot oil on his project.

Pergatory iron works also has a movie on you tube using a similar recipe and uses it for water proofing lots of things including leather in his black smith shop.

not sure if this helps but i found it interesting

[Brinven]

I remember reading something about linseed oil... Boiling makes it dry faster (this was in relation to wood)... But these days they mix in chemicals to make it dry faster... But still call it "boiled" even though it isn't.

[ReneeCanady]

Very useful, thank you!! Looks like it works much better than Aussie and isn't quite as shinny as the Aussie is.

[Chavez]

I'll try making the paste soon.

Aussie's is fine, but its more of a conditioner rather than a waterproofer. Can one use this paste to condition? IF the oil dries up then I guess the answer is no?

Has anyone used 50-50 mix of wax & evoo to condition the leather rather than to waterproof it? Is it worse or better than aussies?

[ChuckBurrows]

The neatsfoot oil is produced by boiling cow- and pigs feet, so all neatsfoot oil must be boiled in some way.

I believe that Fiebings is the only "true" neatsfoot oil still being made from cow parts - most other brands are in fact made these days from a base of hog lard and has so been since the 1930's - at least in the USA.

[ChuckBurrows]

I remember reading something about linseed oil... Boiling makes it dry faster (this was in relation to wood)... But these days they mix in chemicals to make it dry faster... But still call it "boiled" even though it isn't.

You are correct - regular hardware/paint store brands are not truly boiled (heat polymerizes the oil and hastens drying) but rather they use manganese dryers. and other nasty chemicals. On the other hand you can buy a real boiled linseed oil From Tried and True http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/.

FWIW - linseed oil though is a drying oil and can make the leather hard over time and cause cracking/crazing as seen on a lot of old 19the Century leather. The original patent leather from the early 1800's used linseed oil as a component and was an early attempt to waterproof leather.

Edited December 30, 2012 by ChuckBurrows

[Chavez]

Thanks Chuck! So would you suggest not to use this waterproofer on leather?

[ChuckBurrows]

Frankly with lots of time using leather goods (boots, holsters, saddles, sheaths, etc.) in the outdoors 24/7 (I have worked in heavy construction, as a logger in the very wet Pacific northwest, and as packer in the northern Rockies). I frankly don't think you can water proof leather as such with home brewed goods (back in the 1970's there was a company that claimed to have a waterproof leather). In my experience you can make leather quite water resistant - over the last 50 years I've used Obenauf's, Montana Pitchblend, SnoSeal, Hubbard's, some kind of tarry crap that was sold at saw shops, and more and they all worked good to a point - but nothing made the leather water proof in the long term. IMO - the best way is when the leather gets wet let it dry properly and then re-condition it with your favorite mix.

[Chavez]

Thanks! Would the linseed based mix be worse than evoo or neetsfoot based as linseed dries up?

[Chavez]

Hm. I've also just read that rags saturated with boiled linseed oil are a fire hazard as they can self-combust!!! Would putting the waterproofer mix onto a canvas bag and heating it up with a blow dryer not be likely to go up in flames? =/

[David8386]

Any oil soaked rags can do that if enough of the fumes are concentrated and the temp gets hot enough. I would worry more about your paint thinners and lacquers but you could look on a msds and find out the combusting temp for linseed oil to be sure.

David