Tips for controlling where the dye goes on your project

[numbrow]

I hope somebody can help me! My question is how do I prevent the dye that I use to color the entire project from bleeding into whatever I tool which is dyed a different color? I tried to do a flame job on a lighter case. I dyed the flames red, and wanted to dye the entire case black, minus the flames. My "local" tandy store manager that's 800 miles away, told me to coat the flame part with Super Sheen and let it cure over night. But I let it dry 24 hours and it still bled through. As this is the only finish that I have access to, I had hoped it would work. Will Super Sheen work in this instance, or do I need to try something else? Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

[Gregory B. Moody]

So you are asking if there is something which will keep the dye from affecting the flames while putting the other color ON TOP of the flames also ?

As compared to the other color bleeding farther than desired at the juncture of the two ?

You are wanting something to protect the flames color while basically dunking the entire article ?

To dye the entire case minus the flames you pretty much need to only apply the other color to the areas which are not flames. No shortcuts in that area that I have ever seen....

Things having to do with dyeing leather are usually slow , tedious, and subject to accidents like drips falling into areas you don't want them... and likely to look faded or worn ten or twenty years out... there are some finishes which do not have those disadvantages... but they don't provide multicolored affects...

Greg

[The Major]

As Greg mentioned, The only way I know to accomplish what you are asking for is to do it with allot of applied patience and a detail brush. If you want nice looking flames and a contrasting background it has to be done with a brush very carefully.

See the attached picture for an idea. Please excuse the crappy pics. The flames are nowhere the quality of flame that Jeff Mosby puts out (not yet anyway!) , but it will get the point across.

[Hoyden]

I do a TON of that sort of detail work and the only method that I've found is a 000 sable brush, locking the door to keep table bumpers out of the room and patience.

[Johanna]

The trick is to let the leather pull the dye from the brush. Dip your brush in the dye, touch it to the side of the container (so there is no big drip) then touch it to the area to be died. If you are able, use gravity- for example, if you need the dye to go down, hold the work at a slight angle.) As the bristles get near the leather, the leather will pull the dye off the brush. There is no resist that I know of that works with spirit dye or oil dye- the only way to use a resist is with Antique (which is water based). Hoyden, I loved that line about table bumpers- my house has an infestation of kids and dogs, and you know how that goes!

Johanna

[Gregory B. Moody]

The Antique which I use...made by Fiebings... "contains petroleum distillates " ( from the label )..

Many products are called antique..... which basically means that you leave it IN the impressions as age,dirt and oxygen would make it look old and which accents your impressions....

Best to check the label every time you start to put anything on your leatherwork.... Greg

is with Antique (which is water based). ...Johanna

[numbrow]

I would like to thank everyone for their input and advice. I have another project which requires the same treatment and I would like to run through the steps to make sure that I've got it right before I attempt it. It is a phone case with her initials on one side and a fully colored flower on the other. She wants the case royal blue, her initials red and the flower will have green leaves and red petals. So, what I would have to do is use a brush to dye the letters, the flower and the rest of the case, right? If that is the case I've got one more question, what sort of technique do I use to prevent brush stroke lines when I dye the blue? I just had a thought, could I use the brush to dye the blue around the letters and flower, then finish off with a dauber? Or will that just make a big mess of it? I don't mean to ask so many questions about the same thing. But I tried a few things and I'm not getting any closer to a working solution. Again thanks for everything you guys have shared thus far, I really do appreciate it!

[The Major]

You are correct. A method I have found that works real well is to do the main color in several coats, thin out the dye and increase the color as you go, this hides the brush marks. Another thing that hides the marks is to color in different directions.

The method you describe will work, but just make sure you trim your dauber. I like Peter Main's method of burning it to size, this also eliminates the fuzzies.

It is also recommended you use a different brush for each color. And don't forget to use deglazer to open up the pores of the leather and clean the surface.

[Hoyden]

I don't know if this will help you any, but I've found that this works for me.

Once I have carved and beveled my project, I oil it with neets foot oil on BOTH sides and leave it overnight.

I also thin my dyes ahead of time. I keep the old bottles when I finish a color, I have four mixes on hand: 25% dye, 75% dye reducer, 50%/50% mix, 75% dye /25% reducer and full strength. I mark the bottles & the lids with a silver sharpie so I know the mixture. I never put a different color dye into a bottle, even after cleaning it.

I start with the 25% /75% mixture, then move to 50/50 mixture or 75/25 mixture.

I dye around all the edges where color will meet color first using a 000 sable brush, then I fill in the larger areas with a larger brush.

I swipe off the extra dye on the lip of the bottle, then touch the tip of the brush to a piece of scrap leather, then work the dye in towards the "Line of demarkation" where the colors meet with a partially loaded brush.

Hope this helps a bit.