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BrrlRacerJunkie

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About BrrlRacerJunkie

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Utah

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    everything leather related!
  1. I've tried doing a search on here & I have found some good information but none of the previous threads really answered my question. I'm curious about the order in which I should use the liquid latex when using paint. Should I paint the design on my leather item, cover with liquid latex, allow to dry, and then dye the remaining leather? OR Should I cover the area of my leather that is to be painted (still bare leather but design is stenciled on) with liquid latex, dye, remove latex, and then paint the design? I guess my concern is that the woodland scenics liquid latex I have contains ammonia and I'm worried that it will not allow the paint to adhere well to the leather if I paint after using it. Hope some of this makes sense! haha! Thanks in advance!
  2. No problem! Thank you for all the advice you've given me, I greatly appreciate it!
  3. haha, okay! So carve, dye background/border, oil, apply resist to tooled area, then apply antique if preferred. Okay, now I may at some point want to add some acrylic color to certain parts of my tooled design. And I've always heard that oil and acrylic paint on leather don't get along too well so should I apply my oil to the back of my leather project if I plan to add some paint. Or if I apply a light coat of oil and allow it to really soak in, would my paint still adhere?
  4. That does help! Thank you so much Bob! I was wondering if was something that was going to just require a steady hand. Now, do you think the tooled area itself has been dyed? Or is that just the natural color of the leather? If it has been dyed, do you recommend dyeing the tooled area first, applying a finish like Clear Lac, and then dyeing the background and untooled areas? Thanks again!
  5. Good morning everyone! So I was wondering how you go about getting your tooled design one color and the rest of the leather another color without completely messing up your entire project? ha! I'm guessing one would use a resist of some sort and then do you just very carefuly dye around the tooled design? I really want to learn how to do this. I've researched the forums here and found examples people have posted out of their own work but never found a definitive explanation as to how this look is achieved. I have attached a picture of some spur straps a tack maker created that are the exact look I'm going for. They are an absolute beautiful piece of work and I would love to be able to achieve that two tone color effect in my own work. Thanks for your time everyone and hope you are all doing well!! I'm sure many of you are very busy getting Christmas orders together!!
  6. So I have been using Golden Fluid, like many of you do, and I really love them. However, I'm intrigued by the Createx paints for two reasons. 1) They have the iridescent and pearl colors which golden fluid doesn't have. 2) They say to be "automotive" grade, are resin based, and heat set on textiles. I've heard many say that Golden is the better brand and better paint but are they just as durable as the Createx claim to be? Which would be the better choice for items that are used outside and have to be pretty durable? I would still be putting a leather finish over the top of the paint once dry so I'm not expecting the paints, themselves, to be durable without a protective coating. Has anybody tried using both? Are they compatible with each other if I wanted to use the pearl/iridescent paints by Createx WITH the Golden paints? Also, spirit dyes. Does the alcohol base evaporate out after the item is dry? Would I be able to paint on top of the dye once dry? Thank you!
  7. Okay. I would be using it on horse tack like spurs straps, nosebands, etc. So it would need to be pretty flexible especially if the painted design covered the whole surface. Ill have to look into that.
  8. Is the varnish pretty flexible when dry?
  9. Awesome!! Thank you so much for your advice and help!
  10. Interesting! I will definitely be buying a varnish then, and if its a good product, price doesnt bother me. You get what you pay for. Do you suggest airbrushing the varnish on?
  11. Thanks for the replies! I need something that is water and UV resistant so I guess Resolene would be my best choice. Is Angelus High Gloss Finisher an acceptable product to use as a varnish over my paint prior to applying my Resolene? How many coats? Am I better off to airbrush on my Resolene rather than apply it with a brush/dauber/etc?
  12. Okay, I have quite a few questions in regards to sealants/finishes for acrylic paint! What would you consider to be the most durable sealant/finish to go over acrylic paint on an item that will be used outdoors and must withstand a lot use? Is there a certain sealant you put on the paint prior to using the finish? I've heard that Resolene is the best to use, is that true? If so, how many 50/50 coats do you put on the item? How many coats of sealant prior to Resolene? Thank you for your time!
  13. @ReneeCanady Yes, that was my thought too, that the paint would just peel off as the leather underneath would not allow the paint to adhere with the sealant between the two layers. Perhaps if the item did not need to flex but I think it would peel eventually. Thank you so much for responding to my message! . I will go read it now!
  14. I have been doing some searching through forums history/archives in regards to painting & staining leather. I am doing some painting on leather and my question is about the staining. I've been using the Eco Flo All in One stains and more recently started using some of the Fiebings water based dyes in dark brown and chocolate as I prefer darker leather. My question is, how do I go about painting on those? I've noticed, especially with my white paints that they end up with a brown "tinge" to the white paint. In order to get rid of the tinge, it seems like I have to build up many many layers that possibly wouldn't be necessary if I could get rid of that tinge. I've tried deglazing my leather after staining but in order to get it "clean" enough to get rid of the tinge effect, I have to deglaze it so much that it really dries out the leather and gives it a gray haze. I've just been making some items for myself like spur straps, bracelets, etc. So they need to be able to flex and such without the paint cracking/flaking/peeling. So far I've had great luck with my paint but just seem to struggle with the stains & dyes bleeding through my paint. I would really like some advice on what I should do and would certainly appreciate the help. I have seen some people that paint their design on the unstained veg tan and then are able to stain after. I would imagine they would have to be using some kind of antique to do this as a liquid dye/stain wouldn't be very even if applied carefully around the design with a brush or wipe off the sealed painted area. I could really use some advice on this and would certainly appreciate any and all suggestions!
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