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ehalvorson

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About ehalvorson

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Waco Tx

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything
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    Google
  1. Many people also recommend using rubber cement to glue your piece to a piece of cardboard or poster board before tooling it so that it does not change the overall shape or stretch it. When done flip it over and peel the cardboard / poster board off the leather piece, as opposed to peeling the leather off the cardboard. (You want the throw away piece being the piece that is bending and stressing, not the tooled leather).
  2. I haven't made any belts yet, but I have made quite a few holsters and knife pouches that are all tooled first while the leather is flat, and before stitching any linings to them. Things that I have determined work best for me: Case the leather and stamp / tool it Glue and sew lining in place Trim lining (do not stain the piece yet) Sew the holster or pouch I do not completely submerse or soak my holsters and pouches, I will pour water, or hold it under running water from the sink to fill the inside of the holster getting the non-tooled/stamped inside more wet than the outside, then i quickly run the outside of the holster under the faucet to lightly wet the outside of it. Finishing it or staining it before this step tends to make the finish run. Getting the outside too wet, or letting it stand in water will cause the stamping / tooling to blur, fade, or rise a little. I let it air out for a couple minutes, Then I put the item in the holster/pouch to mold it. I generally do the initial shaping / molding with my fingers. Sometimes I use a vacuum sealer if the piece is very detailed, or heavily tooled. (Use non textured plastic or the texture will transfer to your piece) Boning the piece, is going to smooth out the tooling/stamping proportional to how much pressure you use, I generally use a rounded wooden tool handle in the curves of a piece lightly, and really only use pressure in grooves. After the outside of the piece has dried I remove the item it was formed around to let the inside finish drying. Then do any staining or dying.
  3. While trying to make an accurate list of 2D and 3D stamps for my own inventory purposes, I found the link to a partial spreadsheet on the forums here. I have been scouring the net for over a month to compile a list, that I am sure is still lacking, and not wholly accurate, but I figured I should share. The resultant PDF (Including pictures of the stamps I could find) is around 3.4mb and too big to post here, at least by me. If someone else has permissions to upload a file of that size they are welcome to, otherwise I have uploaded it where it should be easily downloadable. HTTP://www.gunliness.com/2D_3D_Stamps.pdf Enjoy, Eric
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