Newest Covers

[SojournerLeather]

I know we've been MIA for a little bit, but we've been busy with schoolwork. We've had some free time the past couple, and we've restocked our etsy store (sojournerleather.etsy.com). Here's some of the latest projects we've finished.

We've given up on eco-flo (we were having too much trouble with easy water damage), so we've switched entirely to Fiebings, and so far we've been able to keep a good selection of strong colors going; but I still feel like we sacrificed a tad bit of the eco-flo's vibrancy.

[rdb]

They look great. Try experimenting with feibing's "Dye Prep". Spraying works best. The leather takes the color better, more even, and I think truer.

[Beaverslayer]

You do really nice work on those covers, and the colors look great from what I can tell.

Ken

[anne newkold]

Very interesting patterns What stamps are you using on it?

[Myriam]

Very nice covers indeed! I'm curious too about the stamps you use.

[ArtS]

Beautiful! How do you get the lighter color in the stamped areas? Do you use a brush and paint in a resist?

Thanks,

ArtS

[Spider]

OH MY THESE ARE NICE....Wow....I like them

[abn]

I know we've been MIA for a little bit, but we've been busy with schoolwork. We've had some free time the past couple, and we've restocked our etsy store (sojournerleather.etsy.com). Here's some of the latest projects we've finished.

We've given up on eco-flo (we were having too much trouble with easy water damage), so we've switched entirely to Fiebings, and so far we've been able to keep a good selection of strong colors going; but I still feel like we sacrificed a tad bit of the eco-flo's vibrancy.

I agree that Eco-Flo colors are some of the most vibrant out there. I've used them on wallets, belts and other personal accessories with a few coats of Satin Shene on top. Although I'm aware of the dye's sensitivity to water, I haven't had any problem with light exposure to moisture, like a little rain, etc.

Do you mind if I ask what problems you were having related to your water damage?

Alex

[SojournerLeather]

abn:

Do you mind if I ask what problems you were having related to your water damage?

No matter how many coats of finish we were putting over them, the dyes would still rub off easily with a moist towel. I was having customers call with the dyes running from getting the covers wet in the rain, etc.

ArtS:

How do you get the lighter color in the stamped areas? Do you use a brush and paint in a resist?

My wife does the dyes and stains, and any light toolwork is just the natural leather. She stains the non-stamped surface, but is sure to not let any get into the deeper stamp grooves. In all honesty, it's not any more complicated than that; no resist. She's getting pretty good.

Myriam:

Very nice covers indeed! I'm curious too about the stamps you use.

We bought all of our stamps in Argentina. Most of them are recycled railroad spikes. Where we learned to do leatherwork, in Cafayate, Argentina, the technique is very different then American "saddlework."

In fact, we just had a story added in the moleskinerie (http://www.moleskinerie.com/2008/04/sojourner-leath.html) about our trip where we got into leather.

Thanks all for the support. abn, any thoughts on water damage and eco-flo are extremely welcomed. We were sad to give them up; we're trying to do things as ecologically as possible, which is a pain in the leather business.

Edited April 17, 2008 by SojournerLeather

[CitizenKate]

How do you get the lighter color in the stamped areas? Do you use a brush and paint in a resist?

Art, I have been able to get this effect very easily without any resist, by doing the following:

- dye the entire piece with a light-colored wash. (Light tan, or yellow)

- take a small wood block, cover it smoothly with some paint rags, pour some darker-colored dye over one edge of the covered block (don't want to saturate it)

- wipe the edge of the covered block over the piece.

The dye will only touch the raised portions of the leather, and leave the depressions untouched by the darker color.

Kate

[SojournerLeather]

Also, our toolwork is driven pretty deep; I use a heavier maul. So, that makes just dying the untouched surface area much easier; Christine (my wife) just uses sponges and cotton cloth cuts (ratty t-shirts). As long as the applicator won't get in the grooves (unlike like those fluffy wool applicators), and as long as the toolwork is deep and even, it shouldn't take too long to consistently just stain/paint the surface and leave the toolwork.

[ArtS]

Thanks. Sounds like it take a little practice to get it right.

I'll have to give it a try on some scrap first.

ArtS

Art, I have been able to get this effect very easily without any resist, by doing the following:

- dye the entire piece with a light-colored wash. (Light tan, or yellow)

- take a small wood block, cover it smoothly with some paint rags, pour some darker-colored dye over one edge of the covered block (don't want to saturate it)

- wipe the edge of the covered block over the piece.

The dye will only touch the raised portions of the leather, and leave the depressions untouched by the darker color.

Kate

[freak]

Those are very , very nice. LOve the look , color and the stamping !!

I've used a fair share of the eco-flo dyes . I've learned this makes a huge diff in using a finish. Buff the piece well before you add your super sheen or satin, then add it. Buff well again with a piece of wool. Add another coat of finish and buff well again then a third coat of finish and buff one last time. The key is not so much the 3 coats of finish put you must buff well between coats.

[SCOUTER]

Wow! Great website and wonderful write-up! Beautiful work!