Please tell us the secrets of leather conditioning

[TheTrooper]

Hey Folks,

as the topic says I am searching for the best method and products for conditioning veg. tanned leather.

I was not really aware that the leather has to be conditioned with some special products, because I thought that my finishing product (Leather Sheen) is doing this job also.

I have the problem that my leather is quiet dry and brittle. After 1/2 year of using a shoulder strap it looks like this:

What I have to avoid this problems in the future ?! When I have to do the conditioning ?!?-Before or after tooling and dyeing and straight before the finish, or somewhere in between ?!?

I appreciate every comments of you.

Cheers for answers in advance.

Have a nice weekend,

Marcel

[eirenealetheia]

I'm still a TOTAL rookie with actually working with leather, but after years of using saddlery on horses, wearing leather belts, etc. I know that I regularly condition my leather with whatever I have handy - Dubbin, Oakwood Leather Conditioner, etc. I probably use a product like this every few months? So I'd probably suggest doing this as well as at some stage during the leatherworking process (at which point I don't know...). I find that it just keeps the leather feeling supple and nice over time and with use.

[BillB]

Adamant-Leather,

I use a number of products depending on the purpose of the product and the surface look I want. I have stopped using any of the "Sheen" products since they are a polycarbon (plastic) sealer that does not allow the leather to breath. Since leather is the skin of an animal, it needs to be treated like skin.

The most natural look comes from no surface treatment and let the leather age with the natural oils it will pick up during use. Things that are handled alot will pick up oils of the human hand. This also means that it wil pick up the dirt with the oil and some cleaning with Saddle Soap may be required from time to time. And Saddle Soap does put some oil back into the leather.

If I want an all natural look, I will use Neatsfoot Oil or even Lexol. This works well on any working leather item such as belts, straps, etc.

If I want a smoother finish, I will use Neat-Lac, or Carnauba Wax.

Of course, the amount of leather treatment applied also depends on the leather product. For example a Quick Draw Leather Holster needs to be very stiff and formed to the gun and the Quick Draw Artist. This usually requires forming the wet leather, so any leather treatment must be on the surface and not soften the leather to the point of it losing its shape. In the case of a Work Holster, e.g. out back hunting, protection from moister and keeping the leather healthy for a long life of heavy use is important, a good soaking of high quality penetrating oil works best.

This has been my experience. I hope it helps.

BilB.

[HarryB]

I think this goes back to the other posting about the quality of tools. Surely, an unskilled person can not make A1 projects with the absolute best tools or materials BUT as my old pappy always used to say: you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Not saying you used "cheap" leather for the strap but I have found that almost any tannery's "craftsman or artisan" veg tan strap leather will be a dryer tannage than saddle skirting. I have gone to using Wickett & Craig skirting for almost everything I do. I have it split to whatever thickness I need and it works wonderfully. Skirting is tanned differently than strap leather and it shows the most when you start bending and folding the surface (grain side) of the leather.

[CitizenKate]

Marcel, what type of dye was used on this strap? The reason I ask is, when I use spirit-based dyes, I always treat the leather with a conditioner after applying the dye, because the alcohol really strips the leather severely. Lexol is the one I use, but there are many other great products out there made for conditioning leather.

Kate

[MADMAX22]

I would like to add that some of the sealers like supersheen and others depending on how applied will get cracky and brittle looking after use where they are flexed alot.

[TheTrooper]

Thanks for all of your help guys.

I will have your hints in mind at my next projects.

@HarryB

No, I haven´t used cheap leather but maybe just the wrong one for this particular part of my project. I mean, I am a beginner and still not so familar with the different types of leather. But what I already know, is that I will never again buy leather per mail order. I found a leather supplier nearby, so I will go there and pick my leather up personally. Because I was not satisfied with my last two hides.

@CitizenKate

I used water based Eco-Flo dye on this. But I will anyhow use a conditioner such as Lexol on my next projects.

@MADMAX22

I don´t have problems like this on parts of my case which are not flexed a lot. So I will treat the shoulder strap differently to avoid this brittle and cracky problem in the future.

Cheers,

Marcel

Edited November 29, 2008 by adamant-leather

[kseidel]

Veg tanned leathers are not all dry. Latigo and Harness leather that is veg tanned is also finished in the tannery with oils, waxes, tallows, dyes, etc. Leather intended for tooling and molding, such as saddle skirting and strap and tooling leather is basically dry from the tannery. There is usually a bit of cod oil in the leather when finished, but not enough to inhibit wetting for shaping and tooling. When you ane finished with construction, and before any topcoat or sealer is applied, a conditioning agent should be applied. Oil, like neatsfoot oil, is traditionally preferred. It will wick through the fibers lubricating the leather and restoring life into the skin. Cream or paste conditioners will also work, but have slower wicking properties and may not penetrate very far. They also usually have some sort of wax that will protect the surface and make additional finishes difficult. You do not need to apply a lot of oil to restore life to the leather. A thin light coat will usually be adequate. The harder a product is to be used, the more oil needs to be applied. Do not over-oil! Saturating the leather is as bad or worse than no oil at all. After oil has had time to penetrate (several hours), then you can finish with whatever you like for a topcoat. No mater how well you condition the leather, a thick plastic surface finish will crack over time. Using Neat lac or Tan kote and rubbing into the surface will give a more natural finish.

I hope this answers your question.

Keith

[TheTrooper]

Hi Keith,

it couldn´t have been explained better

Thank you very much for your help.

Regards,

Marcel

[ryano]

Hello!

I add my two cents worth to the look of your strap, it kind of looks like you used the belly of the the hide which has very loose fibers.