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Masking Product Question

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Is there a temporary masking agent that I can use and then remove or neutralize? From what I understand "resists" are permanent and once I apply them, the leather won't accept any type of pigment to that area.

When painting watercolors I use a "liquid frisket" thats kind of like rubber glue that you can paint on and then peel off once you're done with it. Is there any product like this for leather work or has anyone tried using a liquid mask like those used in painting?

Sorry if this is a stupid "newbie" question but thats exactly what I am! HAHA!

Nick

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THERE ARE NO STUPID QUESTIONS!!!!! All us started out learning at some point, so don't be embarrassed or concerned about asking questions.

Yes, there are several things that can be used, and you mentioned one of them already..sorta. Rubber cement, liquid frisket, liquid latex (model building section of hobby lobby), painter's tape, frisket film, etc. You can use pretty much anything you want, just make sure the mask doesn't discolor the leather, raise the grain, or leave a residue....... Test on scrap first.

Of those mentioned, I've only really used liquid latex. It needs good ventilation and at least two layers (I usually run about 5), fully dried before exposure to the dye. Be sure to test the products WELL on test/practice/scrap pieces. I have, on one occasion, tried to spray dye a base color, mask the tooling, and overlay with a top color. The masking did a wonderful job of keeping the top color off the base color......but completely stripped the dye from the leather (where masked).

Also, your impression about resists is a little off. There are several types of resist, based on different forumlas. Some are lacquer bases, some acrylic. It is possible to dye through the resist, just as it's possible to oil through a topcoat.

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THERE ARE NO STUPID QUESTIONS!!!!! All us started out learning at some point, so don't be embarrassed or concerned about asking questions.

Yes, there are several things that can be used, and you mentioned one of them already..sorta. Rubber cement, liquid frisket, liquid latex (model building section of hobby lobby), painter's tape, frisket film, etc. You can use pretty much anything you want, just make sure the mask doesn't discolor the leather, raise the grain, or leave a residue....... Test on scrap first.

Of those mentioned, I've only really used liquid latex. It needs good ventilation and at least two layers (I usually run about 5), fully dried before exposure to the dye. Be sure to test the products WELL on test/practice/scrap pieces. I have, on one occasion, tried to spray dye a base color, mask the tooling, and overlay with a top color. The masking did a wonderful job of keeping the top color off the base color......but completely stripped the dye from the leather (where masked).

Also, your impression about resists is a little off. There are several types of resist, based on different forumlas. Some are lacquer bases, some acrylic. It is possible to dye through the resist, just as it's possible to oil through a topcoat.

Mike-

Thanks for the encouragement!

Can you explain the resist think to me? I have some acrylic resolene. I was under the impression that the purpose of the resist was to essentially mask off an area that you wanted to take stain or dye and that it sealed it off - preventing the dye or stain from penetration the treated areas. Does it just make the penetration less in the area that received the "resist?" If this is the case, is putting on different amounts/layers of resist a way to effect the amount of resist - in other words, will putting a single layer of resist allow more dye to penetrate than, say, 3 layers of resist; allowing for variation in the darkness of the leather depending on how many applications of resist are applied?

Is there anywhere that I can read up on HOW they work so I can get a better understanding of the different types of resist and what they do/how they differ?

Nick

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