Jump to content
VanDutch

Advice On Sewing Gussets In Heavy Leather.

Recommended Posts

Hope you can provide some advice/tips/tricks.

I am making motorcycle toolbags and other bags from 4mm leather and have been hand stitching the gussets to date. Tried once to machine sew on my Adler but had difficulty in folding the leather and feeding into machine at the same time. Someone mentioned that I'd probably need a Post type machine for this type of work.

cheers

Frans

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you notching the gusset corners?

Is the foot pressure adequate?

Sometimes you have to push the leather through to help the machine along.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I glue the gusset to the leather then stitch. That way you do not have to hold it in place as you stitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, sand and glue on the very edge of the joint, and put some muscle into it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, even w/ 50+ years experience I still sand and glue most sewing projects to cut down on the sweat and tears

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your advice guys. I have tried gluing but no success due to the tension needed to bend the leather.. Not sure about notching the leather, won't the notches show?.. Notching may work for inside curves where it is compressed but what about curves where it is stretched?.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your advice guys. I have tried gluing but no success due to the tension needed to bend the leather.. Not sure about notching the leather, won't the notches show?.. Notching may work for inside curves where it is compressed but what about curves where it is stretched?.

Yeah, it will show on outside curves unless you bind the edge.

Edited by Matt T

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends how careful you are.

You can close the open mouth of the V and all that will be left is a fine line that will be difficult to see and can be masked with dye and wax until you get it perfected but you want to get it as close as you can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know if this method would work for cycle bags as i'm not sure what type of seams you are making, but it would work on a satchel style bag.

Lightly dampen the gusset and form it into the basic "u" shaped curve you desire. While damp, begin to bend the long edges of the gusset back about 3/8ths of an inch or so. Assuming the gusset runs along the sides and bottom between a front and back panel, when dry you should have a "u" shaped gusset with a rim on the front and back edge that you can now glue and stitch to the front and back panels. It doesn't have to be perfect, just close enough so that your not fighting with the leather so much when you are attempting to join the pieces.

Good luck -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can skive the areas on the inside near the corners before gluing and stitching. That thinning down of the leather makes it easier to manage stitching the corners. You might think about skiving the whole length of the inside edges. Oh to own a skiving machine! :)

Michelle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...