No Answer Found In Search. Dog Collars-Latigo Or Bridle?rivet Or Sew?

[Tallbald]

Thanks in advance for information. I'm buying a leather sewing machine (Cowboy CB3500) and will be sewing, among other items, heavy duty lined work dog collars. I see other makers using either bridle leather or latigo leather. But I cannot clearly see why one over the other. I'm kinda new, and to me the latigo seems it would be more durable because of it's tanning process. But on the other hand, latigo won't (?) work if I need to tool a name or ID in it however bridle leather would. What is "best" or is it another "it depends" issue please?

Also, most dog collar makers seem to prefer riveting the collar folds. Unless I use a solid brass or copper though, wouldn't the thin rivet material be more likely to give out than a well sewn double row stitch with waterproof thread? I'd prefer sewing because of the new machine I'm buying,as well as economy for me and the buyer without sacrificing strength. Don

[Matt T]

Latigo is more durable for a dog collar, but it can't be tooled. So, you have to think about what is more important for your product. It takes more time to properly sew around the buckles, keeps, and d-rings on the collars, so most producers will pop a few rivets on there, call it a day, and pump out more product. You also need to be aware when you sew a strap, that if you sew across the width, you are creating perforations which will weaken the strap. This is especially bad for a dog collar which is pulled. Think about what happens when you pull on a perforated page of paper vs one that isn't.

[Ed in Tx]

Tallbald.. I have made several dog collars and I use "Chicago Screws" rather than rivets to fasten the buckle fold and "D" rings. The only issue with the screws is a potential for them to come loose, I avoid that by using thread lock. You can even use nail polish but thread lock is made specifically for that purpose. As far as leather goes, I have used latigo as well as veg-tan. If tooling is required the veg-tan is the way to go. On a few of the collars I have made I actually used veg-tan horse hide on the under side as a liner and exotics like shark, elephant and hippo for the outer side.

For sewing the important thing is to use a lighter thread such as a 137 with a size 23 needle. Like Matt T mentioned the perforations can weaken the leather, using a larger needle and thread could potentially make it worse. Any good quality bonded nylon thread will work, personally I don't think a "waterproof" thread is needed.

I am sure other folks will have different ideas but these have worked for me. Best of luck in you venture.

[shtoink]

There's been the occasional discussion about dog collars and exposure to water. It'd take a bit of searching to find the specific threads, but I can at least pass the gist of them on.

With veg-ten, the location from the hide plays a part in the amount of stretch that can happen, so can the size of the dog. Closer to the belly has a lot more stretch than the section along the back/spine. If a dog likes to pull and enjoys the water, it will make stretching far more likely than a small dog that won't get near water. Compare labs to poms, for example. If you plan on dyeing the collar, getting wet should also be considered.

Like it was stated above, perforations along the width become likely places of failure. Rivets or Chicago Screws used on a stretch prone leather will also be likely to fail. The material and technique you use to make the collar should take into consideration of the animal that it'll be used on and how it'll be used. This is definitely not a "one size fits all" sort of thing, especially if you don't want the collar to fail or the dog to become injured.

Hopefully this is gives you enough to be able to move in the direction you need to.

Edited April 8, 2014 by shtoink

[Northmount]

Try this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49346&p=313477

Tom

[Dwight]

I had a special "dog collar" job a couple years back.

This couple has two Boston Bull Terriers, . . . and each has a shock collar to keep them in the yard.

Their old nylon shock collars would be found in the yard, . . . dogs on the run, . . . as they had figured out how to bite and pull enough that they could eventually get the collars off.

I made one for each, . . . doubled 7/8 oz veggie tan, . . . put together with contact cement, . . . doubled over at the buckle end, . . . actually just one piece, folded, with the buckle in the middle, . . . sewn down the edges with 346 thread on my Tippmann Boss.

The dogs never got those collars off, . . . to this day.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Tallbald]

This has become another very informative and interesting thread. All the responses add good points and are great for teaching a new craftsperson like me to think using conventional methods and yet not fear thinking outside the box.

The remarks about stitching causing weak points is something I had not really considered. In a similar vein, I have to wonder if the expensive custom collars I see on various websites with large amounts of studs, buttons, crystals and other decorations attached by puncturing the leather to affix them aren't indeed weaker by their vary nature? Sort of a "Swiss cheese" effect. Don

Edited April 9, 2014 by Tallbald

[Dirt4fun]

A little background on my dog... He's Stafordshire Terrier and German Shepard mix. Insanely strong, and loves to pull to go meet a new dog or say hi to someone. His best friend is a 200lb Great Dane, who gets pulled around room while playing tug-o-war. If there is water anywhere around, he is diving into it. Since I'm in So Cal, he gets to go play in the ocean during the summer. Every nightmare situation you can put a collar through, is his normal play time.

I typically make martingale collars as they help with controlling larger dogs that like to pull, and also keeps them from slipping out of the collar. I use 7 oz veg tanned leather, glue, and hand sew the collars. Typically I buy double shoulders, as it is more cost effective. I do sew the across the D and buckle, and have yet to have a problem. I know it could be an issue, but if my dog hasn't popped the D off it must be something to be aware of but not worry about. The biggest issue I've had is the dye starts wearing around the edges, but then again this is after the collar has gone through 6 months of hell. I think I've possibly fixed the issue by following the the finishing edges thread...

[shtoink]

Every nightmare situation you can put a collar through, is his normal play time.

I can so relate to that...

[Dirt4fun]

Shtoink... I know that look all too well. It's a cross between happiness and satisfaction. Luckily we don't get much rain, so I don't have to deal with the mud, but when we do, it's pure elation... We had a few days of heavy rain, and I thought my dog was a seal the way he was sliding across the backyard.

[stuarty66]

I make a lot of dog collars and harnesses which I sell in my shop selling pet supplies. I used to use rivets as they are cheep and quick to use(and people think they are strong).....but with the amount of untrained dogs out there I was fed up the rivets popping a lot of the time due the dogs pulling there owners every where. I now hand stitch everything and have never had any complaints since. I did change my thread though as we get a lot of rain here and now use only rot proof tiger thread. As for the leather it depends.....if the customer wants it decorated with stamps or carving then it HAS to be veg tan.

Stuart.

[Matt T]

The remarks about stitching causing weak points is something I had not really considered. In a similar vein, I have to wonder if the expensive custom collars I see on various websites with large amounts of studs, buttons, crystals and other decorations attached by puncturing the leather to affix them aren't indeed weaker by their vary nature? Sort of a "Swiss cheese" effect. Don

Definitely weaker, but it doesn't matter most of the time, unless they are a strong puller.

[Tallbald]

Thank you everyone for the information. All facts duly noted! Don

[LeatherWerks]

Here's how I make collars. I take one strip of Horween 5 to 6 ounce and one strip of the thinnest veg tan I can find, normally 2 oz. I skive the area where the fold is going to be so it's not so thick. After gluing the two strips together, I sew them using 137 thread at about 6 stitches to the inch. I've never had a case where the collars have come apart.

Steve