C.s. Osborne Belt Punch Vs. Drive Punch

[Alamo]

So I'm tired of using the cheap tandy mini punch set with replaceable heads, they always split and aren't very sharp.

Was looking for some replacement punches, and I saw the C.S. Osborne sells belt punches and drive punches. What's the difference between them besides price? I see them being sold on Buckleguy.com, and the belt punches are way cheaper than the drive punches. That being said, I'd rather pay more for a better punch if there's tangible difference between the two. Does anyone have any experience with them?

As a side note, are there any other high quality punches I should be looking at?

Thanks for the help!

[stevieboy7]

Vergez Blanchard sells what looks to be a very nice set.

Honestly, I've been using the cheapo mini punches for like 3 years now without issue. Have you tried getting a different punch surface? and with most leather tools, you need to do upkeep with some fine jewellers files to keep them sharp!

[Alamo]

I'm personally leaning away from a changeable head punch set, I'd rather have a separate punch for each hole size I need.

I have sharpened the tandy punches in the past, but the metal is cheap and I don't think they're heat treated properly, so they go dull on me quite quickly.

My punching surface is a few layers of scrap veg tan over granite, I don't think there's a surface that is more forgiving to punches than that.

The jewelers files is something I'll definitely have to look into though, I currently have lots of fine grit sand papers to do my sharpening, but some tricky places on pricking irons might benefit greatly from those types of files.

[byggyns]

You want to avoid granite for any punch tools. Even through the scrap leather, the surface is going to be too hard. It does not disperse the energy of the strike like other surfaces do. That's why it's great for tooling. Get an end-grain wooden or poly cutting board for under your punches. I use a cheap poly board with one layer of scrap leather over it and don't have any issues- from under 1/8" to 1/2" holes. A lot of folks use a section of hardwood log as their base for punching holes and using stitching chisels.

[Alamo]

I'm not sure I follow your logic. Just like how it's awesome for tooling, all the energy you use to hit the punch will go to the punch cutting through the leather, so you should need to use less force to make a clean punch.

In any case, I'm just looking for some drive punch alternatives to Tandy

[byggyns]

As far as the Tandy alternatives, I have an Osborne 5/8" slot / bag punch that I got in an eBay lot. It was still new in the shipping edge coating. After a little initial sharpening, it works great. Not having used a Tandy punch, except for a punching a pair of 1 3/4" belt slots during a holster making class, I'd say the Osborne is better built, but I don't know how the edge longevity compares.

I still haven't used my Osborne 1 1/2" round strap end punch from the same lot, but I also have no experience with other brands to compare that to.

After starting with the interchangable tip mini-punch set for round holes, I got the set of round drive punches from Harbor freight. They work fine, but took a lot of initial shaping / sharpening of the edge. Cheap tools are cheap for a reason.

I also have the Tandy oval drive punch for doing holes on the billet of belts. That required no initial sharpening & hasn't needed any yet.

I had a whole response written about why using a softer surface to punch holes on is better. It was a TL;DR type of post. I think if you try a poly board, wood block, or poundo board under your punches, you will see the edge of your current tools last longer.

Edited August 27, 2015 by byggyns

[dfrensdorff]

I have CS Osborne punches.....I don't remember if they were labeled belt punches or drive (I believe they are the drive punches). They are very nice, heavy, and I have no problem with them punching through anything

[Alamo]

I had a whole response written about why using a softer surface to punch holes on is better. It was a TL;DR type of post. I think if you try a poly board, wood block, or poundo board under your punches, you will see the edge of your current tools last longer.

I'm not disagreeing with you, but I use the stacks of leather, and occasionally a small poly board on top of my granite to punch on. The edges of the tools never touch the granite, so I'm not exactly sure why pounding on a different surface would make a difference. If you have a link to your longer explanation, I'd be interested in reading it.

I have CS Osborne punches.....I don't remember if they were labeled belt punches or drive (I believe they are the drive punches). They are very nice, heavy, and I have no problem with them punching through anything

The belt punches look like a long round tube, while the drive punches have a sort of shelf look to them and are more square at the handle.

[BigMatt]

You don't really punch holes on a granite slab do you?

[Alamo]

Not without a soft surface under what I'm punching

[Boriqua]

I have been using the tandy set with interchangeable heads for years. Im being crazy lazy but the tips are cheap enough that when it gets insanely dull I throw it in the garbage and buy a new one. Ive only had to do that a couple of times but that depends on how much you use them. I use a poly cutting board as my surface.

Some tools I dont mind and actually enjoy sharpening... hole punches I can live without messing with

[impulse]

By far the best surface for round, oval or belt end punches is lead. I melt down scrap lead and pour this into a mold to make an approx 8" x 5" x 1" block. This surface is firm enough for punching, but soft enough not to dull the tool's cutting edge. After a while, I flip the lead over and when both sides are getting rough, simply melt the lead for a brand new surface. WARNING: lead fumes are toxic, so melting needs to be done outside - I use an old camp stove.

Punches last so much longer, and my lead block only needs re-melting after 2-4 months constant use.

[Colt W Knight]

I recently sharpened my Tandy hole punches, and they fell apart quickly after sharpening. The higher end tandy punches had a very small insert or press fit hardened end, and sharpening them removed most of it. They started splitting and chipping shortly there after.

[club49]

I was punching holes on my 2" granite slab with two pieces of 12 oz leather glued together.The granite cracked down the middle. I also broke a prong on my Tandy stitiching chisel.I use a log now.

[25b]

I use a small (~ 10-15 pound) anvil with a few pieces of leather on top to punch my holes. Haven't broken the anvil yet.

[club49]

Try a wooden log, it works great.

[club49]

Try a wooden log, it works great.

[club49]

I just got the Weaver punch for belts, I like it much better then the single punch from Tandy. They have the oval hole or round.

Jim