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KWP

Members
  • Content Count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About KWP

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 01/28/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver City, TX
  • Interests
    Family, Horses, Team Roping, Calf Roping, Welding, Wood working, Hunting and Fishing.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Law Enforcement gun leather, wet forming and tooling.
  • Interested in learning about
    Saddlemaking
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Internet
  1. Soybomb I used T-nuts on a jacket slot duty holster to attach the jacket slot belt loop. They worked perfect. I used 3 in a triangle pattern inside the holster and then lined it. When I attached the belt loop, which was stainless steel strap covered in leather, I screwed the screw in until I saw it push on the lining and then backed off a bit and adjusted the length of the screw. I carried this holster on duty for 5 years and never once had any issues with it. I bought the T-nuts at the local Ace hardware for cheap. I also use a drop of Loc-Tite on any screw that I DON'T want to come out. Good luck. KW
  2. Thanks. The swivel knife is my enemy when it comes to decorative cuts. I am using a tandy swivel with a ceramic blade. I am learning quickly that there are much better knives out there. Of course even the best knife is of no use if you don't practice!!
  3. This is a Bible cover I built this past Christmas. Maybe by Christmas this year I will have practiced more!! attachment=49764:DSC_0001.JPG]
  4. Hello from Denver City Tx. 12 miles from the New Mexico border. I am new to Leatherworker.net, but I am not new to leatherwork. I have been working with leather off and on for about 30 years. I have been building law enforcement gear off and on for the last 20 years. I don't get to work with it near as much as I want, but it seems I am making more time these days. I joined this site because I see many of you that have the same passion for this trade as I do and I want to learn from you. Who knows, I might have a different idea or two myself that might work for you. I have already picked up some great ideas. Thanks!
  5. Lizard, I am new to Leatherworker.net, but I have been working with leather for years! Holsters have always been my favorite. I too still hand stitch and have been through a lot of trial and error. I often wet form my holster with the weapon intended to be carried in it. Heavy oil and Saran Wrap keep the weapon in perfect condition. I choose a piece of leather big enough to complete the project and then wet my leather thoroughly, I begin forming it around the gun. Once I have formed the leather like I like it, I will begin to trim away excess leather around the top to begin to give the holster the look that I am after. Now I take my overstitch wheel and roll out my stitching line around the gun as close to it as possible, making sure I am on a flat plane all the way around. I then take small stainless nails or tacks and drive them through the leather at strategic points around the project into a piece of wood backing. The key here is to drive the tack in one of the overstitch marks! Gently remove the gun and touch up any forming that my have been affected and then Let it dry. Before it is completely dry I go over the stitching line with my stitching groover. The marks are still present from the overstitch wheel. I then punch each hole individually with a single diamond shaped chisel. Most times I run the stitching groover on the back side as well. I then moisten the stitching line and run the overtstitch wheel over it again to make good impressions for the stitch to lay in. The only time I have drilled holes is when I add numerous layers of leather to create what I call a welt. I will do this on the back side of the holster to accomodate thick barrels, cylinders, and semi-autos along the stitching line. You will get your "gopher mounds" at this point as well. That is how my process goes, slow, tedious, but comes out looking like a machine did it. Good luck and hope my .02 cents helps.
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