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Carving Horses


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#16 yaklady

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 11:02 AM

Sorry Kathy, this working every day is really cutting into my social life! They keep saying Colorado is supposed to be sending us a nasty storm, but it's been taking a long time to get here. Maybe you could ride along with it, then when I'm snowed in next week, you can teach me how to carve horse teeth. I think the biggest reason you want me in a class is cuz you owe me a whack on the top of the head.

I think the feathers on the home page are Jim Linnell's.

Ok, that'll have to do for the email I owe you, I've got to go to work and you need to carve some more cool horses!



You're just full of excuses, aren't you? (full of something, anyway!) I don't know how we're gonna send you a nasty storm when we don't have one ourselves. I'll just hop on a yak head your way. Yaks would like ND in the winter. Then you can have a yak whack! No tooling for me today, I have to go try to sell yaks!
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.

#17 King's X

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 11:18 AM

I had to look at this again.....absolutely stunning!! I found my new desktop background photo.....sorry hidepounder.
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#18 BradB

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 11:47 AM

WOW, those are awesome!! thank you for sharing!!

#19 yaklady

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 11:49 AM

Okay, here's how I do an eye with lashes. I have to retake the eye without lashes. I used the wrong camera for that one.

Note: Use smooth-faced tools only! Never checker your eyes!

Attached File  Eyeballs 002.JPG   66.31KB   116 downloads
Start out by cutting the eye, but do not cut the lashes! Make sure you cut on the pattern lines, or even to the outside if the pattern is small. One major mistake is making the eye too small.

Attached File  Eyeballs 003.JPG   68.95KB   148 downloads Attached File  Eyeballs 004.JPG   77.26KB   148 downloads
Using a figure beveller, like F895 (the size depends on the size of your eye), push in the corners of the eye. Note the angle of the tool, pointed sharply away from the eye.

Attached File  Eyeballs 006.JPG   90.75KB   159 downloads
Bevel to the inside of the cut line, being careful not to flatten the eye. A steep beveller may prove to be useful here. If you don't have one, tip your beveller onto it's toe. You can use the figure beveller or a regular beveller, whatever works best for you.

Note: Lightweight leather will result in a flat eyeball. 8 ounce or heavier is more fun to tool on.

Attached File  Eyeballs 007.JPG   97.15KB   171 downloads
Lightly bevel under the lashes.

Attached File  Eyeballs 008.JPG   89.34KB   184 downloads
With a pointy beveller, F902, define the ends of the lashes. The more points, the better.

Attached File  Eyeballs 009.JPG   103.56KB   186 downloads
Cut the lashes with your swivel knife, from the ends inward.

Attached File  Eyeballs 010.JPG   99.95KB   176 downloads
Define the lashes with a fine point stylus.

Attached File  Eyeballs 011.JPG   110.41KB   178 downloads
Round out the eyeball with a spoon. The better the spoon you have, the better the results. I use Peter Main's modeling spoon exclusively. It's expensive, but worth every penny. Use the tip of the spoon to define the tear ducts in the corners of the eye.

Attached File  Eyeballs 012.JPG   91.46KB   178 downloads
I use the spoon only for most of my eye work. Here I formed the eyelids, working from underneath both on the lower and upper lids.

Attached File  Eyeballs 013.JPG   130.51KB   172 downloads
Use a wide, flat pear shader (smooth, of course!) to push in by the front and back corners of the eye.

Attached File  Eyeballs 014.JPG   130.93KB   138 downloads
Once again, the spoon takes over. Note the folds of the upper lid and the "bags" under the eye. A figure beveller can be used to deepen these lines where desired.

Last note: Dry leather is difficult to form with a modeling spoon. If you find yourself pushing down and not making a dent, dampen the eye again. Not too much!
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.

#20 Hilly

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 02:38 PM

Thanks for the great tutorial, Kathy! You made it look so easy. I've always admired the mule picture you did, and your horses are just fantastic.
I'm going to try a little figure carving this weekend. Maybe I'll share a photo if it doesn't turn out looking like a 2yr old did it. :head_hurts_kr: Stay tuned, or...... maybe not! :)

Edited by Hilly, 21 January 2010 - 02:39 PM.


#21 techniques

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 06:53 PM

Kathy,

thank you so much for the great tutorial. I will try this in the next days and if it works I will show the results here.

Gisela

#22 yaklady

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 11:23 PM

Sorry for the slow reply, Gisela. I look forward to seeing what you do. I'm looking forward to yours, too, Hilly!
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.

#23 TimKleffner

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 12:09 AM

Kathy
As I get into figure carving, you suggested Peter Main's spoon? Where can I get one and how much? What brand tools do you use for your figure work?
When does your class start in Sheridan?

Happy tooling
Tim

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#24 yaklady

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 10:36 AM

Kathy
As I get into figure carving, you suggested Peter Main's spoon? Where can I get one and how much? What brand tools do you use for your figure work?
When does your class start in Sheridan?

Happy tooling
Tim


Hi Tim,

The only place I know to get that modeler is right from the source, from Peter. You can contact him through his website. They were $35 last I knew, over a year ago. Maybe they haven't gone up.

I use an assortment of tools. My Craftools are old ones, which work much better than the new ones. For most things, I use them. Bob's matting tools are by far superior to any others I've used and I don't use anything else for matting. I use some of his bevellers as well. When you get into scenery, he has a lot of helpful tools for that. One invaluable tool is Craftool F910, modified. Grind off the sides to make it a sharp, pointy beveller, and it works great for doing hair. That's what I used to do the wild boar under the patterns heading. The new F902's need to be ground down as well to make them work right. They're too fat and round.

My Sheridan class will be on Friday, all day. We will do a horse head in the morning and color it in the afternoon. At least that's the plan!

Hope to see you there!
Kathy
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.

#25 jbird

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 01:08 PM

Kathy

Outstanding OUTstanding OUTSTanding OUTSTANding OUTSTANDING

thanks
Josh
Josh

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#26 techniques

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 01:43 PM

Sorry for the slow reply, Gisela. I look forward to seeing what you do. I'm looking forward to yours, too, Hilly!


Dear Kathy,

here is what I made. I'm not satisfied with them and would appreciate if you could take a hard look on it. Please let me know what I can do to improve it.

I would also like to ask if you could make a challenge with horse carving. Maybe you could give us a carving pattern and leave us 1 or 2 months to finish them. I'm not sure if you have the time for it, but maybe you could show us the carving step-by-step? Please, please do this, if you have time for it.

I'm so far distanted and can't visit your workshop. So this would be a great help.

Greetings

Gisela

Attached Files



#27 yaklady

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 05:22 PM

Dear Kathy,

here is what I made. I'm not satisfied with them and would appreciate if you could take a hard look on it. Please let me know what I can do to improve it.

I would also like to ask if you could make a challenge with horse carving. Maybe you could give us a carving pattern and leave us 1 or 2 months to finish them. I'm not sure if you have the time for it, but maybe you could show us the carving step-by-step? Please, please do this, if you have time for it.

I'm so far distanted and can't visit your workshop. So this would be a great help.

Greetings

Gisela



Hi Gisela,

Yes, I think Germany is a little too far for you to come visit me for an afternoon of fun carving together! It sure would be fun, though. Let's talk about the eye you did. Not bad! The eyeball itself is bevelled correctly and nice and smooth. The eyelashes could use a little work. If you have a hairblade, go over the lashes with it, to give a more hairy look. Use a fine-point stylus whether you use the hairblade or not. The lashes are rough looking, so make some of your impressions deeper than others, and not too straight.

The pear shader can be used at the back of the eye, like you did in the front. The lower eyelids could be smoothed out a bit. The one right by the eye looks good, and the rest can be shallow.

I would be delighted to post a pattern and show you how to do it. Give me a few days at least to put something together, and figure out how to post the pattern. You can take all the time you need to carve the horse. I wish you could come to Sheridan. I'll be teaching a class there and would love to have you in it!

Kathy
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.

#28 yaklady

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 05:32 PM

Kathy

Outstanding OUTstanding OUTSTanding OUTSTANding OUTSTANDING

thanks
Josh



Thank you, Josh! It's all these nice comments that encourage me to do stuff on here. I'm happy to help out anyone who wants it.

Kathy
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.

#29 techniques

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 09:35 AM

Hi Gisela,

Yes, I think Germany is a little too far for you to come visit me for an afternoon of fun carving together! It sure would be fun, though. Let's talk about the eye you did. Not bad! The eyeball itself is bevelled correctly and nice and smooth. The eyelashes could use a little work. If you have a hairblade, go over the lashes with it, to give a more hairy look. Use a fine-point stylus whether you use the hairblade or not. The lashes are rough looking, so make some of your impressions deeper than others, and not too straight.

The pear shader can be used at the back of the eye, like you did in the front. The lower eyelids could be smoothed out a bit. The one right by the eye looks good, and the rest can be shallow.

I would be delighted to post a pattern and show you how to do it. Give me a few days at least to put something together, and figure out how to post the pattern. You can take all the time you need to carve the horse. I wish you could come to Sheridan. I'll be teaching a class there and would love to have you in it!

Kathy



Hello Kathy,

thank you very much for taking a hard look on my horse-eye carving. I will make some other samples and will show them again here at the forum.

It would be great if you could post a pattern. Take you time with it. I'm happy if you could do that. When it continues a little longer it doesn't matter.

I hope I can someday come to the United States again. In May 1989 I had the pleasure to travel to the USA and joined the Jamboree at Prairie State Leather Guilds. There I had the pleasure to met many leather carvers like Robb Barr, Paul Burnett, Kat Kuszak, Darwin Ohlerking, Charles Heschke and many others which names I not all knew. There were several demonstrations which people could watch, but I didn't remember that there were also workshops. However it was very interesting to watch thesedemonstrations and I remember very often at this show.

Greetings

Gisela

Edited by techniques, 04 February 2010 - 09:36 AM.


#30 yaklady

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Posted 05 February 2010 - 10:14 AM

My scanner won't work, so I took a picture of the pattern. I hope it works for you!
I also started working on step-by-step instructions and will post that when it's done.

Kathy

Attached File  Horse 001.JPG   106.78KB   135 downloads
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.





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