Okay, here's how I do an eye with lashes. I have to retake the eye without lashes. I used the wrong camera for that one.
Note: Use smooth-faced tools only! Never checker your eyes!
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Start out by cutting the eye, but do not cut the lashes! Make sure you cut on the pattern lines, or even to the outside if the pattern is small. One major mistake is making the eye too small.
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Using a figure beveller, like F895 (the size depends on the size of your eye), push in the corners of the eye. Note the angle of the tool, pointed sharply away from the eye.
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Bevel to the inside of the cut line, being careful not to flatten the eye. A steep beveller may prove to be useful here. If you don't have one, tip your beveller onto it's toe. You can use the figure beveller or a regular beveller, whatever works best for you.
Note: Lightweight leather will result in a flat eyeball. 8 ounce or heavier is more fun to tool on.
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Lightly bevel under the lashes.
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With a pointy beveller, F902, define the ends of the lashes. The more points, the better.
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Cut the lashes with your swivel knife, from the ends inward.
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Define the lashes with a fine point stylus.
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Round out the eyeball with a spoon. The better the spoon you have, the better the results. I use Peter Main's modeling spoon exclusively. It's expensive, but worth every penny. Use the tip of the spoon to define the tear ducts in the corners of the eye.
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I use the spoon only for most of my eye work. Here I formed the eyelids, working from underneath both on the lower and upper lids.
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Use a wide, flat pear shader (smooth, of course!) to push in by the front and back corners of the eye.
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Once again, the spoon takes over. Note the folds of the upper lid and the "bags" under the eye. A figure beveller can be used to deepen these lines where desired.
Last note: Dry leather is difficult to form with a modeling spoon. If you find yourself pushing down and not making a dent, dampen the eye again. Not too much!
All bad yaks make their way to the freezer.