How Do I Make These Cuts Look Like This

[bwillielv]

I am a firefighter and am looking to make a new shield for my helmet. I found a design I really like and unfortunately the guy isn't making them anymore.

I bought a starter kit and some 7 - 9 oz veg tanned leather. I am learning the basics but have one question about the design.

The cuts around the stitch area, the inside area looks like it is pushed up. I can't figure out how to make a cut look beveled like this.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Brian

[electrathon]

The leather is two layers thick. The top layer has "windows" cut into it.

[bwillielv]

I knew it was two layers but it looked to me like that was all done in the top layer.

Thanks I will toy around with it and see how it goes.

[Cyberthrasher]

it's just the result of the beveling. It gives the illusion that the leather is pushed up, when in all actuality it's the same level as the rest of the leather.

[RiverCity]

Ill add that you can use a modeling spoon or even your finger (if you spray the area with water first) to smooth out and "round" the bevel.

Chuck

[immiketoo]

Brian, the techniques used are a swivel knife cut around the shape, and then beveling around the cuts. You could use a beveler for this, but I have created this effect by using pear shaders. Its pretty easy actually, and the shapes I see here definitely would fit a pear shader. Wet leather is like clay, and while you are pushing the leather in one direction or another, it will actually raise the surface as more of the collagen is pushed into a new area. I think if you practiced a bit you could replicate this easily. If you want, I'll take pics of the guitar strap I did that is similar to this.

[bwillielv]

That would be great if you could take some pics.

I have tried many ways to replicate it and just can't seem to get the same look. I wonder how deep I should cut and how wet I should get the leather. Should I let it soak for awhile?

[Cyberthrasher]

That would be great if you could take some pics.

I have tried many ways to replicate it and just can't seem to get the same look. I wonder how deep I should cut and how wet I should get the leather. Should I let it soak for awhile?

Try to keep it properly cased. I have a feeling that a lot of the effect you're missing when comparing to your own work is simply the optics from looking through the lens of a camera. A lot of times that can play tricks on us. There's some of my work that people think is inverted just because the camera is playing tricks on them. I will say that this looks like it's a B200 beveler if that helps. It really doesn't look like a pear shader to me.

[oltoot]

The order of work is important, too. I would try this

1) Cut top piece a little oversize, then swivel knife work, then cut outs, mark inside of cutouts lightly on back piece for alignment

2) Let both pieces dry thoroughly

3) glue top to bottom

4) Sew, using swivel cuts as reference

5) Wet assembly then mark and cut exterior

6) When assembly is cased, do bevel work

7) Dye and edge

Edited August 7, 2013 by oltoot

[bwillielv]

Thank you all so much for the comments.

I am slowly getting there. I don't have a beveler yet so I probably need to go pick one up.

Are there any draw backs to letting the leather soak before working it?

[RiverCity]

Thank you all so much for the comments.

I am slowly getting there. I don't have a beveler yet so I probably need to go pick one up.

Are there any draw backs to letting the leather soak before working it?

Other than you will have to let it mostly dry.... no problems at all. Leather that is too wet is too soft to work, and wont hold the tooling as well as leather that has the correct moisture content.

Chuck

[engtrk]

I checked out your website, looks like you got the hang of it pretty quick. you do some nice work!

[bwillielv]

Thanks! I have found leather working to be very relaxing. It is a great way for me to unwind after a shift.

I had a look at your website. I really like you glove straps.

Stay safe,

Brian