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About MedusaOblongata

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    more leatherworking techniques and tools
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  1. My new belt

    I really like the definition and contrast. What was your resist/antique/stain process?
  2. Treebark Giraffe & Wildebeest Bone & Black

    I'll take the wildebeest and giraffe.
  3. Black leather with tan marks

    I'm thinking you'd be able to develop a recipe through practice. Take a piece of the leather, dye it black, then throw it down the driveway, scuff it up, bend it, scrape it, and see how much you like it. I've used this on scuffed, faded boots: and it the finish looked perfect until they got scuffed again, and then it wore off, probably more easily than you want, but it could be layered on top of another dye as something that would come off of high wear areas easily.
  4. Wet molding experiment

    If you knew what was inside, you definitely wouldn't sleep. That's just ripe to make a bra out of, with or without the star shape around it.
  5. I believe pull up leather is designed to mark easily so it will develop a patina and character from being used. Once there are enough marks they won't stand out so much. I don't think there's any to prevent that with this kind of leather.
  6. Tandy Outlet /exotics

    I know this thread is old, but since it's still on page 1 and Tandy Outlet still sells the same bags of remnants, someone might still see it. I bought a bag of gator remnants from Tandy Outlet. It was about a gallon size ziploc. Pieces were mostly black and brown with some white and pink. The leather was very thin. Pieces were big enough for watch straps, but none big enough for even one half of a wallet.
  7. Recent Builds

    Great looking holsters! How is the bottom closed? Is it one piece of leather folded in half at the muzzle?

    Where's your sense of adventure?
  9. What did you learn about the best ways to put them together? Anything you can share could help everybody else considering using them.
  10. Stingray would be much tougher for sure. We'll see how the alligator holds up over time, and how it looks as it wears, but I do love the way it looks.
  11. I wanted the knife to fit in the sheath facing either direction, so wet molding was out. I don't like retention straps, and this knife doesn't lend itself to them well anyway, so magnets seemed like the best choice. The magnets are each the size of a penny, and they're so strong that it's almost impossible to pry two apart with a thumbnail - you have to slide them apart, similarly when they stick to a larger piece of metal, you have to slide them off. I gave myself a blood blister getting part of my finger sandwiched inside a stack of them. If you haven't played with strong magnets like this, they're quite remarkable and nothing at all like refrigerator magnets. I made the sheath with 4 magnets on each side. They had some strange effects I didn't predict and didn't know exactly how to explain or work with. With each half of the sheath constructed separately, the knife would stick to one side quite well, and wouldn't slip off. When I put the two halves together, the magnets somehow seemed to counteract each other and the knife would slip out. I positioned the magnets with polarities aligned, so the strength of the magnets should pull them together, making a tighter fit around the knife. It didn't quite work that way, though, and the knife would slip out of the sheath more easily than I wanted it to. I ended up folding a piece of leather making a speed bump inside the sheath, the friction of which provides most of the retention. Now the knife will not fall out if I hold it upside down and shake it. Had I anticipated this, I could have skipped the magnets all together and saved a lot of time, and made the sheath much thinner. As it stands, though, the sheath is the same thickness as the handle, 1/2", so it looks good together. If you're planning on using magnets, which I still think could be a good idea, do more research and experimenting than I did.
  12. It started as a damascus blade blank from a local knife show (1095 & 15n20), 5" blade: Then I added leather scales (horse butt?): Then wrapped in alligator and fastened the scales, and started the sheath with 5.5oz leather: And N52 magnets: I designed the sheath so the knife could fit in facing either direction: Wrapped in alligator: And stitched together, attatch strap, and done: The strap is attached with a chicago screw and it swivels, so I can wear it IWB or OWB. Yes, it took a very long time, but if I did it again it would be much quicker next time, now that I have some clue what I'm doing. This was my first knife handle, and first sheath.
  13. new tool bag

    I wonder if that gusset design could be modified for a briefcase to incorporate an external pocket?
  14. Briefcase.

    That is the most impressive leather carving I have ever seen. Whatever you're charging for that work, you need to add a few zeroes to the end.
  15. I'm a long time lover of leather, and have been doing a lot of reading on the forums here and watching YouTube. I want to make a few different shoulder bags for personal use. I have some leather that will be good enough to start with - after some practice I'll look into buying more expensive, better leather. I won't be doing any tooling or stamping at first, just looking to make the bags. 1. I currently don't have any leatherworking tools, what I think I'll need is: (feel free to revise this list) Wing Dividers Strap end punch Adjustable V-Gauge Belever/Skiver Strap Cutter Small head knife Burnishing bit for Dremel Adjustable stitching groover Some type of cutting board (is there a better or cheaper option than the ones at Michael's?) Overstitch wheel Diamond awl Pricking Iron - Since I'll be hand sewing, it doesn't have to look too refined, I want to go with 4 stitches per inch. Many of the tools I see advertised online are measured in mm, and they don't always mention the size of the holes and the spacing in between the holes. 2. Harbor freight has a cheap 1/2 ton arbor press - is it a good idea to use that with a pricking iron and rivet setter, rather than using a hammer? 3. What would be the strongest black thread, and the right needles for use with that thread, for saddle stitching? 4. I have some jiffy rivets and a setter, are those strong enough, or is there something better for stress points. 5. I don't need professional quality tools, I'm looking for a balance between decent quality and affordable price. How much can I expect to tell my girlfriend all of this will cost? - I've promised to maker her a purse. 6. Can you suggest sources or post links to the right tools to get with a good quality/price ratio? 7. I would like to use tuck buckles for closure, but the ones I've seen attach with those thin bendable prongs, which don't look all that strong or durable - is there a better option? I live within driving distance to Oregon Leather Co. so I could pick up some things there in person. Thank you, and, I promise I'll post pictures when I have something to show, Jason aka MeduaOblongata