JeffGC

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About JeffGC

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  • Location
    St. Louis, MO

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
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  1. I've had a Cowboy 4500 for five or six years and I'm totally pleased with the machine. Recently, I've had a few questions regarding the use of the holster plate; this might be the subject of an additional post. During the last few days, I've watched A LOT of videos on Youtube. A sincere thank you to the companies that have taken the time to produce excellent and informative videos. I have two questions: My machine has a vertical rod (about 4") on the top. It was my understanding that is was necessary to route the thread through it before the adjustable tension disks. When watching the videos, I noticed that most machines didn't have this rod, routing the thread directly from the arm, above the thread, to the tension disks. Thoughts? Timing: Some videos have you move the stitch length to the maximum, while others have you set to zero before checking the relationship of the hook to the needle. Which is best/correct? Thanks for your help. Jeff Chosid
  2. The red material was slightly thinner than other bottles and required four coats. I'd guess I spent about an hour in total, but over a couple of days. Jeff
  3. I recently completed this belt following the procedure that I posted.
  4. I’ve spent quite time perfecting my edge finishing. Now, I can produce an edge comparable to the best European manufacturers. I use this system on Hermann Oak “English” Bridle Leather or chrome-tanned leathers. When edging items made with traditional veg-tanned leather (holsters), I use more common burnishing methods. In this post, I’ll address materials, tools and technique. Materials: I’ve settled on Fenice edge paint, specifically the Matte Plus product that is available from Campbell Randall. I prefer the higher viscosity (Plus) product. I have experimented with the primer but have not seen any advantage in its use. This material is extremely flexible and durable. When I first started using the product, I would apply and sand. Now, I use an electric edger. The Fenice product, when dry, is thermoplastic. In other words, it melts with heat. Often, this technique is called “Hot Glazing.” Tools: The European leather houses use electric leather creasers that are quite expensive. If you are interested in one, they are available from Fine Leatherworking or Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. I think Campbell Randall is now offering a less expensive option. I have made my own and it works quite well. All of these parts were purchased from Amazon. Power supply - 3 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 300va Max, 0-130 Volt Output. Handpiece – Dremel 1550 T2 Versa Tip Multipurpose Tool Kit or Weller SP25NUS Standard Duty LED Soldering Iron. Tips – Brass Leather Soldering Iron Tips I started with the Weller unit and discovered that the tip thread was 10-24. Although the brass tips are 4.5mm, I was able to thread them using a 10-24 die. The Weller unit worked okay. After using it for a few months, I purchased the Dremel tool. It is shorter and allows for better control. The tip thread, though, was slightly smaller (8-32). I carefully drilled the end with a #25 drill and tapped with a 10-24 bottoming tap. My existing brass tips fit perfectly. Applicator – Craftool Pro Edge Dye Roller Pen (Tandy Item #3437-00). This tool is incredible. The Fenice edge paint just flows onto the edge. With a bit of experience, you can maintain a fine edge, even with contrasting colors. Technique: Most of my items are make with two layers of leather. My process is as follows: 1. Sand edges with an oscillating spindle sander (Harbor Freight). I use 1.5”x 4” 80 grit sanding sleeves from Rockler Woodworking. 2. Stitch. 3. Bevel edges. 4. Sand edges with sanding sponges (Harbor Freight). Course, medium and finishing with fine. 5. Apply two coats of Fenice edge paint and allow it to thoroughly dry. 6. Smooth edge with electric edger. 7. Apply final coat of Fenice edge paint. Good luck! Jeff
  5. Charlie - I just sent you a PM. Jeff
  6. My edges are beautiful, following Bob Park's excellent procedure. Still, I have a nagging question. Wouldn't the application of wax, before (under) the top coat, reduce the latter's adhesion? Typically, my second to last step is to burnish the edge with a mixture of paraffin and beeswax. I then finish with Bag Kote, either with an airbrush or wiping on with a sponge. Thoughts will be appreciated. Jeff C.
  7. Edgers

    Barry King edgers. Jeff. C.
  8. Use an artists rubber brayer. Jeff C.
  9. Holster Plate

    I bought a holster plate and only use it for very specific situations. When creating a folded belt loop, it is sometimes not possible to lay the piece flat against the standard needle plate; i.e., the additional thickness of leather places the work piece at an angle. With the holster plate, the additional height of the center allows the piece to be positioned flat, in relation to the machine and perpendicular to the needle. Jeff C.
  10. Splitter Questions

    I just called Osborne regarding the taper problem. It seems that a slight taper is common. The only way to adjust is to shim the blade with shim stock. Jeff C.
  11. Splitter Questions

    I'm having the exact problem you have mentioned regarding an Osborne 86. One side is slightly higher than the other. I don't see how to correct the taper without shimming the blade. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Jeff C.
  12. Lobo explained the situation perfectly. Either use the correct blue gun or the actual gun. Jeff C.
  13. Ferg - I think they are Ahrends.
  14. I just finished a Tom Threepersons holster for the son of a friend. The holster is for a S&W Model 63. The photo is with my Model 60. Jeff C.
  15. If hand sewing, I groove the top and bottom. When machine sewing, I only groove the top. In the John Bianchi videos, he creases the leather with a divider. I think grooving would allow you to have the stitching deeper into the leather, providing better protection of the thread. Jeff C.