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About MadHatter

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  • Birthday 01/01/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Kalamazoo, Michigan
  • Interests
    Anything leather

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Alteration and repair of garments and accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    all topics
  • How did you find
    google saddle repair sewingmachines

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  1. the Cowboy, or any in that class, will do a good job for any projects you mentioned but will require changing adjustments for lighter any heavier threads. I use a CB4500 along with a JUKI LU563 for lighter 69 to 138 threads. Each should have the newer type motor controler for much smaller learning curve Having both is the way to go. Your wife's machine sewing skills may help you cut down your learning curve :-|
  2. The leather at the edge is dry rotted from lack os conditioning over the years. You can't paint over the rot. Take out the rotted parts and replace with a stable base to burnish and paint an edge.
  3. not how you would calculate the strebgth of the loop. consider the tensile, tangential and stress distribution of the forces in play as it would ne in use. also the stitch length will effect the strenth of any seam. but l would say your strap would hold as you describe
  4. I would first case the leather with water to do the stretching. After its dry useTenderly conditiiner. Grasso watter proofer then URAD topcoat wax. These italian leather care products are available through
  5. Grasso from URAD.
  6. Before switching the back I would glue it up first stretch the backing and I'll keep it P keep it good stretched up until the weather in till the letter would stick to the backing well enough and keep it curved until dry then I would stick and it keep it curved always until the stitch then when it was straight the back in with stretch a little bit but then when you come get it wouldn't wrinkle it was just naturally fall into place where it was glued up at in it in the first place I do that all the time with backings that I'm what kind of fool wit molding the letter and I really wedding the letter put the glue and lamination gives it the shape that's why I like to use barge cement and use it with and not as a contact cement which will be stronger but it's not going to be able to have the shaping the gluing does a ipod parts Portsmouth 40 years and I can't think of one to two times except maybe the shoes or something that I actually use it as contact cement as it was most people think that it's only contact cement I always use it what to wear and and make sure is the wrinkles around you and pulls tired or whatever has to happen to give my flaps shaping or other parts that I'm going to shave and that's what I would do
  7. I think you are right on staggering the holes for that braid.
  8. Most excellent job!
  9. I bought a large lot of these crimp on bars with what seems to be a male segma snap head on one side. They crimp on the edge for change purses. I see them on the change purse flap parts of older wallets and kit items from vintage Tandy carved and laced projects. I just replaced a closure piece on and older Tandy kit women's wallet that have a shorter bar (about 3/4") My bars are about 2" wide but I was able to uncrimp the original off the rotted leather and instal it into the new leather closure. The female part in the wallet side was in good shape so I didn't have to try an adapt the wider ones I had to the new leather so that worked out. But I am still at a loss to get the matching female side parts to go with the snap bars i have. They are very cool of you have ever sen a vintage item with this sort of closure on the change purse flaps. I would use them if I could. I have about 100 bars. The segma snaps available from Tandy now are "line 16" (this forum is the onlyh plalce I have ever seen the word 'ligne' used instead of 'line'). I have found one listing for line 14 sigma snaps in brass plated steel. Before I buy these to be able to use the female sides with my bars I was wondering if anyone else has had experience with these snap bars and that my bars will snap to the line 14s for sale at peace, ed
  10. I ordered it from Shop Talk. Waiting for it to arive here ;-|
  11. Yes. You can call me at 269 207 9688 peace, ed
  12. Tipman Boss in like new, perfect working condition. Bought this new about ten years ago. Light usage. Upgrading to a Cowboy 4500. Aluminum casting model (about 30 pounds) Easy to move around and just clamp to a bench or mount with bolts. It comes with the Standard presser foot and includes Flatbed Attachment - $135 value Extra Bobbins Extra Needles Original box The Tippman Company of Fort Waynne has excellent support if needed. hey have posted some excellent videos for adjusting and replacing parts if ever neeeded. It is a very clean, simple machine. You will need a few allen wrenches to adjust and change needles. I can supply pictures if needed but they all look about the same. Asking $1100 plus shipping. Local pickup would be in Kalamazoo Michigan. You can call me at 269 207 9688 peace, ed
  13. I forgot to ad that the stand for my machine is the "sit down" model
  14. My machine is on the "seated user" stand. It was totally reconditioned and repainted so it looks like new but with a very little use. It is in perfect running condition. I will try to get togeter some pictures in the next few days. I am handicapped so it is hard for me to move things around in my shop. It is what is known as a walking needle machine. Very easy to use and adjust the hight of foot lift for each stich and presure on material being sewn. Stitch lenth is adjustable by actually adjusting the stitch lenth as apposed to the way it is adjusted on the cheaper machines in this class which use a hight of foot set screw to addjust stitch lenght. Claes gives a much more accurate stitch than any other patch I have ever used. Friends in my area who are shoe repair guys, I am mostly a leather tailor, come over to use my Claes on especially harder jobs. This is a very nice machine for a reapir shop. The list price for this machine is like $6800 but they can be bought new for just uner $6k. Used ones in any conndition are hard to come by. I waited on a list for over a year to buy mine. I personaly don't use it enough to justify the space it is taking in my small workshop and coulduse the money to buy a different stitcher that makes more sense for my particular business. I would like to get out of it just what I have into it minus the money I spent for the extra bobbins and needles which are not cheap for this machine.