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About earlthegoat2

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    Savannah, GA

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts & Bags
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    Google search for Dummy Guns
  1. I know there are flammable and non flammable varieties of Weldwood. That is one difference in can color. I have tried: Masters, Weldwood (flammable),Old Barge, New Barge, Old Tandy, New Tandy, 3M Scotchweld 4475, The one that worked to my satisfaction was the Old Tandy and Old Barge. The others just work. They work but not like the old ones. The old ones made a permanent bond the second they touched each other. The new ones can be worked around a little. This can be a good thing but I like the confidence that comes with the old style adhesion. I use Masters and occasionally 3M Scotchweld now. The 4475 variety is their product for leather. The Scotchweld line are known as "Plastic Adhesives". Another general note: If it says not for sale in California, then it will work about as good as anything that is available. The 4475 carries that label. It gives new meaning to the term expensive. It costs 20 dollars for 5oz. I only use it sparingly where not a lot of flex will be needed in the finished product. I have no doubt it would work for those areas though. Im going to try Pliobond next. They have a specific product for porous surfaces.
  2. Thanks for the help sir. This worked exactly as explained
  3. So in an effort to see just what my machine could handle....I was making something....I put a full 3/4" of hard rolled horse hide under the foot and proceeded to sew. It really did not want to punch through the leather. I replaced the needle as the one I was using did have a burr in the tip. Still it stalled out about half way through. I completed the project by helping the machine along using my hand on the flywheel. The point is the tensioning system on the speed reducer is not good. I cannot seem to get it tight enough for the very beginning and now it has shown me that I was right all along. When I tried using a pry bar on it it almost wanted to strip the lag screws from the table bottom. Should I drill some holes and through bolt it and then use the pry bar? The motor has a nice positive tensioning system on it with a threaded rod. It would be nice if there was the same for the reducer. The machine is a CB4500 running a 25 needle and 277 lubed thread.
  4. Very cool. Thank you all for the insights.
  5. Uwe, I am not 100% sure what you mean. I am currently using the standard smooth inner presser foot that came with the machine. It is a Cowboy 4500. Are you saying a different foot can help to keep the finished stitches recessed? Also I am currently using an S point, size 25 needle with 277 thread. Maybe I will try going down to a 24 size as well. I suppose that would not help with the stiches being more recessed but right now I think the holes look too big in my finished products.
  6. I have looked at the Schmetz and Groz needle guides and think I like the diamond (DI) type point. I like the idea of the stitches being recessed as much as possible. I already cut a stitch groove but I also use a lot of horse hide. This would serve dual purpose as well for some items I make that are a full 3/4" thick. That is 5 layers of hard rolled horse butt. I can tell it taxes the CB4500 but there have been no issues so far with the triangular point needles I am using now. The DI point claims to be able to penetrate the thicker stacks easier. Primarily it would be used for double thickness gun belts though. What are your suggestions and/or what do you all use?
  7. A trick from the gunsmithing world is to use a penetrant called Kroil. I see you got it out but I am adding this for future searches. Put the Kroil on and then wait overnight. It will be much freer the next day. You can get Kroil from Midway USA and McMaster-Carr.
  8. Those videos just took a great deal of the black magic out of how a sewing machine works. Great job.
  9. What is the underfoot capacity of this machine?
  10. PM at you.
  11. I kind of thought it was a bit high for a unmarked machine. I am in the market for a good machine now and it does not have to be a bottom feeder deal. I just want something I can pick up and not have to pay for shipping. I will be making a trip north through Toledo the week before Thanksgiving and will stop by Bob's on the way through and maybe pick something up then.
  12. Ad says it will sew up to an inch and provided a picture of the foot over 5 layers of 7-8oz veg tanned and a penny on end next to that. So it apparently can sew close to the diameter of a penny. Probably has a 7/8 inch lift in actuality though so it is probably closer to a 3500 than a 3200
  13. There is a leather machine for sale locally here. I have not gone to take a look at it but have a picture. It looks like a Cowboy 3500 but with no markings. If I remember right, some of these had a GA-? designation perhaps? Anyway, what are the advantages and disadvantages of purchasing a machine like this? It appears to be set up for leather as the ad states that is what it was used for. Parts availability should be good with all the other China clones out there. Would it accept the Cowboy feet? The price is 1500 as it sits. This is not my first choice in a heavy duty machine but if the price is right I may grab it.
  14. I think the introduction of the CB3200 either did or should have put a pretty nice dent in the Tippmann Boss sales. The Boss has more height which is a real advantage over the 3200 but for a number of belt makers out there who would choose between the two, I would think the 3200 would win often if they would be purchased new.
  15. Here is a CL listing for an old singer. Machine appears to be physically large so that implies it is heavy duty. Owner says model number is 951. This does not bring up much. Anyone here know by any chance. http://savannah.craigslist.org/tls/4663596414.html