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About terrymac

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  • Birthday 03/21/1946

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Corrales, New Mexico

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Floral carving
  • Interested in learning about
    Sheridan style
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    surfing the web
  1. Sheilajeanne, your instructor was wrong. Pear shaders (thumbprints)can be utilized either way. If you would look at the cover of the latest "Leather Crafters" journal, you will see a piece tooled Bobby Park (Hidepounder) on which every flower is treated the way Yin Tx did. It just all depends on the effect you want Terry
  2. Fiebings Antique Paste - haze? Help?

    Get some wool ,, if you are using rags or paper towels, I'll will guarantee you are not getting all of the residue. Tandy sells some synthetic wool that works great. At this time on your project, use the wool and reapply the Tankote, and work into the leather. I'm afraid the oil you applied may hinder the excess residue. I always apply oil before the paste and I personally will use only Bees Natural Oil. I threw the underfoot oil away a long time ago. Bees will not darken your leather. Hope this helps, Terry
  3. My SOP is to apply Bees Natural oil (will not darken leather) and after dried, apply Clear lac. Never have had any rub off. Might add Clear lac and saddle lac are two completely different products. Terry
  4. Try Bee 's Natural Saddle Oil. Has no smell and does not darken leather. Hop e this helps Terry
  5. suppliers that split english bridle

    I could tell it was split as the thickness was uniform on the entire side. Ain't going to happen without splitting. Terry
  6. suppliers that split english bridle

    They charge a small amount if you want the leather "pasted" back. You can't tell it was ever split. Good people Terry

    Is this number correct? Cannot get text to go thru Terry
  8. Clear lac can be applied directly over antique paste with no waiting time. Been doing it for over 50 yrs. If you are not using wool to remove excess, you are not getting it all. Terry
  9. Antique gel causing discoloration

    TanKnote is no way, no how ever intended to be a resist. In fact, it can be added to antique paste if it starts drying, or to lighten up the antique color . It also works great when you have splotchy areas from the antique, and it will remove most of the "splotch". The only product that really works is Clearlac or Wyosheen sold by Barry King ( both the same product). Must say I have not used Bee's new product so can't comment on it although their saddle oil is the best on the market. You get into Tandy's antiques, and you can take everything I have said and throw it out the window. Resolene does not work very well either. Terry
  10. Clean antiquing/highlighting

    Use wool pads to remove excess antique paste. It is the only way I have found to get the paste out cuts and tooling marks. My resist is Clearlac, same thing Bob is using. Terry
  11. More practice. Belt blank

    Barry King sells a packet of belt patterns done by Bill Gardner, one of the godfathers of the Sheridan style carving. Well worth the money. They were are tooled by Clinton Fay, and include a complete list of the Barry King tools used. Good luck Terry
  12. More practice. Belt blank

    Great improvement!! Small suggestion is to continue veiner work around complete scroll. Do this prior to beveling and then when you bevel the border, most of it disappears, yet appears that these marks were part of the complete scroll. Keep it up Terry
  13. Tooling practice/critique

    Whole lot better. Next order of business is smoothing out your beveling. You don't want to see individual tool marks as around the top of your petals. Someone will tell you to use a modeling spoon to smooth, but that doesn't work when you use a checked beveler, as I do 90 percent of the time. Just keep practicing, and you will get it. The other area to work is uniform spacing of the veiner marks around the scroll. I cheat, I got some old prickng wheels and use those to mark individual tool marks placement. Hope this helps, Terry
  14. Tooling practice/critique

    Biggest problem I can see your swivel cuts are not deep enough to show any relief after beveling. Your cut depths should be at least thirty percent of the thickness of the leather, preferably more. Hope this helps, Terry