terrymac

Contributing Member
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About terrymac

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/21/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Corrales, New Mexico

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Floral carving
  • Interested in learning about
    Sheridan style
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    surfing the web
  1. Recommended Leather Suppliers (US)

    One additional source for Sedgewick in USA is Booth and Co located in Boston (I think) Top of the line and good service. Quite the leather. I had a scrap piece that I just threw out on a table outside and left for six weeks and left fully exposed to the summer elements and full sun. I then put a little of Booth's bridle leather conditioner on it, and was dang near like out of the box. I can't imagine what a different leather would have looked like. It isn't cheap but well worth the cost. Ken at Booth is a check of a nice guy and easy s y to work with. Terry
  2. If you are attempting to antique dyed leather, it isn't going to work. It is only going to work on natural leather. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but if you are trying to highlight tooling that has been dyed, there are probably other products out there that are better suited for that purpose. I will routinely dye the background areas and leave the remainder of the tooling undyed, and those are the areas that the antique does its thing. Also, if your pear shaded areas are not burnished(darkened) from the tool, the antique is not going to going to take the place of proper tooling techniques unless you are using a lined or checkered tool that can grab small amounts of the paste. Slick leather can't do that. You really have to match your product to what you are trying to accomplish.
  3. You do not want to leave it in the lettering and the borders. Excess paste is not what gets your highlights. When you apply the paste you get all of the coloring you are going to get. One of the reasons checked bevelers and lined thumbprint are so popular is the checking and lines grab small amounts of the paste and you cannot get it out. Your paper towels will never work except to remove the bulk of the paste. They will never pull the excess of of the tooling and swivel cuts as will the wool pads. Don't leave any excess anywhere. If you do, it will look like a mud pie. If you noticed in the Keith Valley video, he works hard at getting it out. I agree with Nevada that you don't ever want to let the paste dry. It is hard enough to get when it is wet. I can only imagine the nightmare you will have with dried paste and the resulting mess. Keep working at it Terry
  4. When you wipe off the excess antique paste, be sure to get all you can. I have found the only way to do this is using shearing or wool pads. Tandy sells a synthetic wool that works quite well. If you get all you can off, there is nothing left for the Clearlac to pick up. I have been using Clear lack (Neatlac) as the final sealer for over fifty years and have never had your problems. An excellent video on the process is put out by Keith Valley on YouTube. He also uses Tankote, but not as the final finish. Tankote will take some of the paste off, and I personally do not use it unless I need to lighten splotchy places on the leather. Hope this helps Terry
  5. Just be aware Tan Kote will lift some of the color of the Fiebings Antique Pase. It can be used to dilute the paste. As a normal practice, I don't use it unless there is a dirty looking spot on the untooled area of the leather and it will clean it up Keith Valley, mentioned earlier, does use it as a matter of practce. Just play with it and see what you like. Glad it helped, Terry
  6. , First thing to do is to get yourself from Clearlac (old original Neatlac). You can get it thru Springfield Leather and second thing is throw away the Neatsfoot and get yourself some "Bee's Natural Saddle Oil' or some extra virgin olive oil. I personally like the saddle oil, but others prefer the other. You are not too far off in your steps You just don't need so many redundant steps After you dyed the background and applied oil, let it dry , Use some wool shearing to apply a light coat of Clearlac, working it in to the leather, Don't goop it on. Depending on the amount of resist desired, you may wish to apply a second coat and let dry. Tandy sells some synthetic wool pads that work quite well, and you can cut them in half. Again using the wool pads, apply your Fiebings Antique paste, and now you can goop it on. You do not have to wait to start removing the excess, just continue using the wool pads to wipe off, changing wool pads as they fill up with paste. Using wool pads is the only way of getting the excess out of tooling marks and cuts. This is where a lot people mess up the piece and end up looking like mud puddles I will then apply a final coat of Clearlac for a finish. Just remember Saddle Lac and Clearlac are totally different products. If you want to see some finished products using this system, look at Hidepounder's work. There is a really good video by Keith Valley which also demonstrates this process. I wish I had a dollar for every saddle that has been finished like this, I could go fishing all summer Hope this helps, Terry
  7. Help

    Right up the road from Lubbock, is Panhandle Leather loccated in Amarillo. They handle Herman Oak along with some imported stuff. Give Jim Blaine Kinney a call, good people. Hope thishelps, Terry
  8. Types of wallet leather?

    Check with Rocky Mountain Supply. They have some really nice French calf and goat that is veg tan, and light weights Terry
  9. Beginner Questions

    If you use Grade A Hermn Oak, you are not going to find any better. The leathers shown on the website you mentioned, are not to be tooled on. It is like comparing oranges and apples. The answer to your question depends on what you are trying to accomplish. There are many companies that handle those kinds of leather. Do a search in the "Suppliers section", and you get an idea of what is available. Decide what you are trying to do, and then go from there. Interms of the swivel knife, none better thn the SK 3. Terry
  10. Parasites

    There are no federal capital gain taxes on your pnrimary residence. Don't know about state or if part of property was used for different purposes. Terry
  11. Maul / Mallet weight question

    16 oz, good all-around weight for tooling. Heavier for basket weaving or simply use more force
  12. One other piece of advice is get you some wool, either synthetic or real, to remove the excess antique. You can't get it all off with a rag, I learned the hard way. If you get all the excess off, you shouldn't have that darker appearance. Terry
  13. Yes, I meant Fiebibgs, hate auto correct. I don't think the first picture was dyed, just the antique effect. Second picture probably. I have always dyed before antique, and if I remember, that is the sequence outlined in the book. Hope this helps, Terry
  14. I will bet it is "Sheridan Brown" and it is put out by Findings.TerryT
  15. Glue container with retractable brush....

    Chicago Medical has them on Ebay, different sizes. I bought the 8 oz for less than $10.00 Terry