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About terrymac

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/21/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Corrales, New Mexico

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Floral carving
  • Interested in learning about
    Sheridan style
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    surfing the web
  1. suppliers that split english bridle

    I could tell it was split as the thickness was uniform on the entire side. Ain't going to happen without splitting. Terry
  2. suppliers that split english bridle

    They charge a small amount if you want the leather "pasted" back. You can't tell it was ever split. Good people Terry

    Is this number correct? Cannot get text to go thru Terry
  4. Clear lac can be applied directly over antique paste with no waiting time. Been doing it for over 50 yrs. If you are not using wool to remove excess, you are not getting it all. Terry
  5. Antique gel causing discoloration

    TanKnote is no way, no how ever intended to be a resist. In fact, it can be added to antique paste if it starts drying, or to lighten up the antique color . It also works great when you have splotchy areas from the antique, and it will remove most of the "splotch". The only product that really works is Clearlac or Wyosheen sold by Barry King ( both the same product). Must say I have not used Bee's new product so can't comment on it although their saddle oil is the best on the market. You get into Tandy's antiques, and you can take everything I have said and throw it out the window. Resolene does not work very well either. Terry
  6. Clean antiquing/highlighting

    Use wool pads to remove excess antique paste. It is the only way I have found to get the paste out cuts and tooling marks. My resist is Clearlac, same thing Bob is using. Terry
  7. More practice. Belt blank

    Barry King sells a packet of belt patterns done by Bill Gardner, one of the godfathers of the Sheridan style carving. Well worth the money. They were are tooled by Clinton Fay, and include a complete list of the Barry King tools used. Good luck Terry
  8. More practice. Belt blank

    Great improvement!! Small suggestion is to continue veiner work around complete scroll. Do this prior to beveling and then when you bevel the border, most of it disappears, yet appears that these marks were part of the complete scroll. Keep it up Terry
  9. Tooling practice/critique

    Whole lot better. Next order of business is smoothing out your beveling. You don't want to see individual tool marks as around the top of your petals. Someone will tell you to use a modeling spoon to smooth, but that doesn't work when you use a checked beveler, as I do 90 percent of the time. Just keep practicing, and you will get it. The other area to work is uniform spacing of the veiner marks around the scroll. I cheat, I got some old prickng wheels and use those to mark individual tool marks placement. Hope this helps, Terry
  10. Tooling practice/critique

    Biggest problem I can see your swivel cuts are not deep enough to show any relief after beveling. Your cut depths should be at least thirty percent of the thickness of the leather, preferably more. Hope this helps, Terry
  11. Bruce, Have you tried this thing, and if you have, what is your impression? Would it work on a Heritage with a straight bevel? Thanks, Terry
  12. Sewing misshapen leather after stamping?

    Try some 3M bi-directional filament tape, and if you get it stuck well, you can tool some pretty thin leather with no stretching. Home Depot is handling it now, used to have to get from Amazon. I double it on the leather, and the stuff really sticks. Apply before you do any casing. This tape isn't cheap, but well worth the cost. Hope this help, Terry
  13. Bikermutte, throw that Neatsfoot oil in the trash and get yourself some Bee's Natural Saddle Oil. Won't darken your leather at all. I quit using that other stuff years ago. Didn't like what it did to my leather. Terry
  14. Awl or chisel?

    Not sure what you are calling a stitching Chinese. If you are referring to a stitching iron, you can punch numerous holes at once and they will be in a straight line and it is easier to maintain a straight vertical hole Keeping a straight line on the front is easy, the real skill comes is keeping that straight line on the backside. If you are referring to a pricking iron, then an awl is still needed to go all the way through the leather, the pricking iron gives you the hole placement. If you watch the good guys, they are using an awl and are stitching as each hole is punched, thus the reason for a stitching pony or horse. If you have punched the holes prior to stitching, the pony or horse holds the leather, leaving your two hands free to use the needles. It just makes the sewing a lot faster and efficient. I've tried just using my hands, and there is no way you can do it as fast without using a clamp of some kind. Watch the Nigel Armitage videos, you will learn a lot on correct saddle stitching and how to make the front and back of the stitch look the same. Terry