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About terrymac

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  • Birthday 03/21/1946

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  • Location
    Corrales, New Mexico

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Floral carving
  • Interested in learning about
    Sheridan style
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    surfing the web
  1. Bikermutte, throw that Neatsfoot oil in the trash and get yourself some Bee's Natural Saddle Oil. Won't darken your leather at all. I quit using that other stuff years ago. Didn't like what it did to my leather. Terry
  2. Awl or chisel?

    Not sure what you are calling a stitching Chinese. If you are referring to a stitching iron, you can punch numerous holes at once and they will be in a straight line and it is easier to maintain a straight vertical hole Keeping a straight line on the front is easy, the real skill comes is keeping that straight line on the backside. If you are referring to a pricking iron, then an awl is still needed to go all the way through the leather, the pricking iron gives you the hole placement. If you watch the good guys, they are using an awl and are stitching as each hole is punched, thus the reason for a stitching pony or horse. If you have punched the holes prior to stitching, the pony or horse holds the leather, leaving your two hands free to use the needles. It just makes the sewing a lot faster and efficient. I've tried just using my hands, and there is no way you can do it as fast without using a clamp of some kind. Watch the Nigel Armitage videos, you will learn a lot on correct saddle stitching and how to make the front and back of the stitch look the same. Terry
  3. Tooling Detail Guidance Needed

    Barry King would be my source. He makes his bevelers in some awfully small sizes which is what you need. They are also steeper angled which means you will not be affecting surrounding areas. Look at his round bevelers, I can see several areas, especially in the mane, where they would really work well. I would also look at making it a inverse figure, that is beveling to the inside of the figures. Would make dying a whole lot easier. Hope this helps, Terry
  4. Dying Edges

    Get hold of Bob Park (Hidepounder). He is handling some edge markers that you put your own dye, and he is also handling a product called Edge Magic that you treat the edges with before burnish. You can contact him at Hidepounder@gmail.com Hope this helps, Terry
  5. Hello and Goodbye

    I totally agree with above post. I, too, have learned so much on this site, but the people I learned the most from are MIA. I can only guess the reasons. I think an example of why this may happened was recently Nigel made an announcement of instructional videos for the staggering sum of $3.95 a month, and someone griped about the cost. Really, this man has forgotten more than most of us will ever know and his instruction is invaluable. Someone posted a video from Equs leather and the high quality work demonstrated. The fellow in the video, Charlie, used to be a frequent contributor on this forum but I haven't seen a post in a couple of years. Hidepounder used to post frequently, but not anymore. About the only one left of the old timers is Bruce Johnson, and thank goodness he is still around. Perhaps, it is a natural evolution and nothing stays the same. Nonetheless, I miss the sage advice that used to be here, and thank goodness for a couple of old time saddle makers that still contribute. Just my two cents worth, Terry
  6. IMHO, finest knife on the market.
  7. Has anyone ever tried cutting a Poundo board?

    The poundo board will grab your knife or whatever you are cutting with. You want something slick so your knife will just glide over. Poundo boards are great for using punches on. Hope this helps, Terry
  8. Wickett & Craig Ocean Bridle Leather 3-4oz

    No problem. Thanks for getting back with me Terry
  9. Wickett & Craig Ocean Bridle Leather 3-4oz

    Interested in burgundy. Is it all 3-4 oz, and how do I get hold of you? Thanks, Terry
  10. Recommended Leather Suppliers (US)

    One additional source for Sedgewick in USA is Booth and Co located in Boston (I think) Top of the line and good service. Quite the leather. I had a scrap piece that I just threw out on a table outside and left for six weeks and left fully exposed to the summer elements and full sun. I then put a little of Booth's bridle leather conditioner on it, and was dang near like out of the box. I can't imagine what a different leather would have looked like. It isn't cheap but well worth the cost. Ken at Booth is a check of a nice guy and easy s y to work with. Terry
  11. If you are attempting to antique dyed leather, it isn't going to work. It is only going to work on natural leather. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but if you are trying to highlight tooling that has been dyed, there are probably other products out there that are better suited for that purpose. I will routinely dye the background areas and leave the remainder of the tooling undyed, and those are the areas that the antique does its thing. Also, if your pear shaded areas are not burnished(darkened) from the tool, the antique is not going to going to take the place of proper tooling techniques unless you are using a lined or checkered tool that can grab small amounts of the paste. Slick leather can't do that. You really have to match your product to what you are trying to accomplish.
  12. You do not want to leave it in the lettering and the borders. Excess paste is not what gets your highlights. When you apply the paste you get all of the coloring you are going to get. One of the reasons checked bevelers and lined thumbprint are so popular is the checking and lines grab small amounts of the paste and you cannot get it out. Your paper towels will never work except to remove the bulk of the paste. They will never pull the excess of of the tooling and swivel cuts as will the wool pads. Don't leave any excess anywhere. If you do, it will look like a mud pie. If you noticed in the Keith Valley video, he works hard at getting it out. I agree with Nevada that you don't ever want to let the paste dry. It is hard enough to get when it is wet. I can only imagine the nightmare you will have with dried paste and the resulting mess. Keep working at it Terry
  13. When you wipe off the excess antique paste, be sure to get all you can. I have found the only way to do this is using shearing or wool pads. Tandy sells a synthetic wool that works quite well. If you get all you can off, there is nothing left for the Clearlac to pick up. I have been using Clear lack (Neatlac) as the final sealer for over fifty years and have never had your problems. An excellent video on the process is put out by Keith Valley on YouTube. He also uses Tankote, but not as the final finish. Tankote will take some of the paste off, and I personally do not use it unless I need to lighten splotchy places on the leather. Hope this helps Terry
  14. Just be aware Tan Kote will lift some of the color of the Fiebings Antique Pase. It can be used to dilute the paste. As a normal practice, I don't use it unless there is a dirty looking spot on the untooled area of the leather and it will clean it up Keith Valley, mentioned earlier, does use it as a matter of practce. Just play with it and see what you like. Glad it helped, Terry
  15. , First thing to do is to get yourself from Clearlac (old original Neatlac). You can get it thru Springfield Leather and second thing is throw away the Neatsfoot and get yourself some "Bee's Natural Saddle Oil' or some extra virgin olive oil. I personally like the saddle oil, but others prefer the other. You are not too far off in your steps You just don't need so many redundant steps After you dyed the background and applied oil, let it dry , Use some wool shearing to apply a light coat of Clearlac, working it in to the leather, Don't goop it on. Depending on the amount of resist desired, you may wish to apply a second coat and let dry. Tandy sells some synthetic wool pads that work quite well, and you can cut them in half. Again using the wool pads, apply your Fiebings Antique paste, and now you can goop it on. You do not have to wait to start removing the excess, just continue using the wool pads to wipe off, changing wool pads as they fill up with paste. Using wool pads is the only way of getting the excess out of tooling marks and cuts. This is where a lot people mess up the piece and end up looking like mud puddles I will then apply a final coat of Clearlac for a finish. Just remember Saddle Lac and Clearlac are totally different products. If you want to see some finished products using this system, look at Hidepounder's work. There is a really good video by Keith Valley which also demonstrates this process. I wish I had a dollar for every saddle that has been finished like this, I could go fishing all summer Hope this helps, Terry