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About JLSleather

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    My babies, leathercraft, fishin'

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  1. Garage sale score.

    That's an adjustable depth gouge, for the flesh side for making sharp bends (I use one on the inside bends of 3-ring notebooks). That looks like a "U", but they are also widely available with a "V". Rather like a 'miter' on a piece of wood...
  2. 7/8 oz strap and billets. Belt is also 7/8, then lined with 3/4 tooling leather, billets are not lined (stitching on loops and billets is decorative).
  3. That looks like the "tab" folds under the keeper loop, which would make for a tad more bulk (changing the size slightly). I generally cut the [vertical] slot and run it through, but that might not be good for a billet so close to the strap width (weakening it too much). I'm fixin' ta do a pdf on this belt size thing, since it comes up over and over for YEARS. Have to figure out some way to advertise it and calculate how to price it .. WAIT, that sounds like far too much work -- easier to just post the thing and call it FREE. Ranger belts aren't nearly as popular as they once were, at least not round here. So I haven't made one in over a year - not counting "gun belts" and "buscadero" belts. This one a good while back - later went in and dyed the inside of the holes black. I hate that when the holes are not matching - this was done to make that point.
  4. Second Holster

    Looks purdy good, kid.
  5. Backing for stamping and carving?

    Depends on teh leather thickness. Above 8 oz, I don't feel the need to do anything with it - just keep moisture content right. I've DEEP tooled 44-48" belts with virtually no stretch at all. Long projects- like belts - in the 5-8 oz range the tape works well, simple to do. I don't worry about "stuff" residue on the back since a belt that light would be lined anyway. Smaller projects - small enough to fit on the tooling rock completely - I rubber cement to card stock. Peels right off when done, and rubber cement comes off cleanly.
  6. Cobra Class 4 Premium Sewing Machine

    this is from 8 months ago, must have got intentionally boxed into a corner.
  7. dummy gun pakage

    where did you find the seacamp? never seen a 'dummy' seacamp.. nice to mold with one that cant go off
  8. How is this Technique Done?

    Yep, looks like just laminated layers of leather - much like plywood.
  9. No idea what I'm doing, but happy to be here!

    Funny that -- I see they removed it, but for YEARS the antique jar read "do not thin with Tan-Kote" We did it anyway with no adverse results. You seem to be failing very well
  10. Trouble in Paradise

    Womens bees crazy.
  11. Center Line On Edges

    No dye. No edge poop. No liquid plastic. Just leather 'n' glue ... ''n' no line. Nope. I mean eliminate it, not camouflage it.
  12. Fiebing's did have a grey - haven't seen it in a good while and they may have discontinued it (?). Good news is, you can make about any strength of grey you want by reducing black. Angelus does have a 'grey' and a 'dark grey', but I haven't used either of them so can't really comment on them. The angelus dyes I have used worked very well, as long as you don't try to mix them with the fiebings.
  13. Center Line On Edges

    You wont entirely eliminate the "line". But DO glue to the edge. In fact, I generally glue the back of the belt, then cut the liner about 1/4" wider so I don't have to "fiddle" with lining it up. Stick'er down, tap the edges, trim. If you got any "glue boogers", a piece of canvas will take it off easily.. no water, just rub the edge with canvas (I'm told denim will work also). To avoid "bits" I didn't see, I just rub the entire edge - take bout a minute. You can POLISH that edge to no end, and you will STILL have a thin "line" (but no space between layers).
  14. Cowboy 3200

    Know what AINT right here → or even right here ↓ ?@! PICS of all the fancy smancy stuff yer stitchin' with the new toys ...