Penden

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    141
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About Penden

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday March 14

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://lonelymountainleather.com
  • Skype
    penden_rel

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    East Coast

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Tooling and coloring leather

Recent Profile Visitors

5,456 profile views
  1. We've tested out koolaid dyes on kids' work and that turned out pretty well. With kids projects, do you finish it with anything after that? I see low VOC acrylic finish from Tandy Leather. I'm wondering if painting the acrylic finish is the same level of risk as painting with plain acrylics. Is there anything else I should look at?
  2. Curiculum for Kids' Classes?

    I have the round hole punch like used for belts, so I was planning on using those because they are indeed easier to lace through. Thanks. My mind is a little boggled. I've always used the stitching pony! I figure a very small project like a coin purse and whip stitch would be a good start. I can have it precut and mark where to punch holes or prepunch them. I'd want hammers for stamping... So I guess mallets and extra needles and daubers. That's not too bad.
  3. Curiculum for Kids' Classes?

    I have a related question about stitching and lacing with middle schoolers and up, and classes in general. If I have 5 students, do I need 5 stitching ponies to do lacing?? What tools do I need multiples of besides hammers? For the dyes I was thinking low VOC dyes and they can dye a small project like a bracelet.
  4. First Tooling - Dragonfly

    Thanks, every one! Cutting it out afterwards is a great idea. I may have to try that! The dead weight looks ingenious, too, so I don't have to worry about scuffing up the leather with the weight. I had the beveler correct/not backwards I believe. I had just watched a video showing how to hold it and the tapping you guys described. I'm just new at it and hand trouble getting it to skip...and carving the lines how I wanted them. For dyeing I saved and cut up card board boxes, and put those on top of painters plastic... The dyes can even dye concrete. Ask me how I know! It is really nice not to have to worry about any spilled dye.
  5. First Tooling - Dragonfly

    Thank you! How do you keep something this small still while you work? I had a rubber mallet resting on it and it still moved and was trouble to work around. I might do some celtic knot work next so I can follow a pattern and I think that might help. I agree that the legs stand out too much. The image I went off of only showed the two because the others are behind the wings. It looked OK in the drawing but really stands out here. I made it into this bag:
  6. First Tooling - Dragonfly

    My first try for carving and beveling
  7. First Tooling - Dragonfly

    My first try for carving and beveling
  8. Critique my dyeing / finish technique

    Thank you so much. The red is redder and the liquid frisket is amazing!
  9. Critique my dyeing / finish technique

    Thank you! I will definitely be trying their red dye next. I have used a paint brush for small areas like blocking in letters, and I've liked the results of that.
  10. I am getting back into leatherworking now that my kids are getting older. I feel like there are some things I've forgotten, and/or I'm unsure that my old methods are acceptable to me now. Attached is a picture of bracelets I'm making. I am using fiebring dye with those little applicators that come with them and in small packs (a white puff on a little metal rod). I'm thinking that at the very least, they could be a little wider for my wider products, so I'm swiping over the leather one time. I'm reading now that some of you dilute the dye and dip for a better coat, so if you do that, how do you lay it out to dry or hang it without marring the product? I suppose I could apply some sort of resist in the letters? So, after it dries, I'm using Fiebring sheen for the finish, which is a flexible acrylic. I feel like I am wasting/spilling/soaking more of the sheen into the cloth than actually gets on the leather. Does the type of fabric I use make a difference? I also find that it pulls more of the dye off even if I've already rubbed the leather with a wet cloth. Am I doing something wrong? I used to use a spray but I don't remember what it was and I'm not sure I want to use something that might be more toxic and require a mask. What are my options for a good finish? PS. I really wish the reds were less pink! It's a beautiful color but it annoys me that I can't get true red
  11. Protecting Painting

    Thank you, I will try that because if the finish is not the problem then the paint application most likely is.
  12. Protecting Painting

    I used a waxed-based spray coating on these bracers and the paint started to chip off almost immediately: http://picasaweb.google.com/mr.mulington.the.3rd/Leatherwork#5510793450096814370 (before use) I am painting on top of dye, with the acrylics from the leatherstore, and then coating. Is waxed based coating not going to work or am I maybe applying it wrong? I also have acrylic resolene that I've used but of course the spray is easier to apply. How should I be protecting my paintings?
  13. Thanks, guys! I did actually make a mistake on the coasters with the pattern. I traced something wrong when I was transfering the pattern to the tracing paper. Whoops I usually design the knots by hand if I'm not pulling them directly from the celtic knots book we have. That program looks interesting
  14. I dye mine with spirit-based dye and/or paint them with acrylic, then cover in a coat or three of resolene.
  15. http://ketlin.deviantart.com/#/d2wa833 Some of the stuff I've been doing lately